If you have a 90-91 Integra, then you need to purchase a 92-93 spec driver side mount and shim the passenger about 1 inch. When I put my 92-93 spec mount in, it was to wide to fit, so I pried that bitch open by like 3/4 to make it fit!"
after going through some mounts, i actually didnt see any differenceā¦
integra_hot - passenger side motor mount ( the one that bolts onto the tranny ) is a 2 piece mount. a plate, then the actual mount. that is the one you will have to shim up an inch. half inch space between the mounting plate and tranny case, and another half inch between mounting plate and mount.
i found that the easiest way to get it together lined up right, is to have most of the mounts loose. bolts on there with enough threads holding to support it (about 6 or so full turns did good) then after they all line up, put the long bolt through the mount to the chassis, then tighten them all up.
hth
What year you you have, what year mount did you use, ect. Mine was a bit longer with the 92-93 (hence, thats how I got the pass mount to bolt up). I hate the way mines looks pryed open, but thats how I got it to fit.
I realize this post is old, but I have searched.
How do I get my reverse lights to work?
Auto-Manual in a 91 Integra GS
hahah, even though this thread is years old, i still dont have working reverse lights.
but what your suppost to do is have 2 long wiresā¦ (like speaker wire or something) then your suppost to attach the sensor @ the tranny, to 2 wires in the center console.
you can check in shenrieās guide, i believe he did cover what colors the 2 wires are under the center console.
ok im workin on the wiring now and i think i found the right harness but the wires that you say go together arenāt diagonal from each other but are side to side. also i think i found the 2p harness too but they are both black wires w/ a white line. the connectors do look bigger tho.
*edit- gotta get a better resizing program. anyone know a good one? 
check to see some of the other plugs for this descriptionā¦
green/white on one corner of the plug
yellow/white (silverish lookin) (one row up/down and one over from the green/white wire)
im not sure, but that one you took a picture of may not be the correct oneā¦
what iāve found to be the easiest way in the 4 motors iāve gone through in my car, installingā¦ it makes things alot easier if you leave all long 17mm bolts that go through the frame & mount loose. (tight enough to hold where the threads protrude the nut, but not tightened down)
and leave the extended bolts that you got for the passenger side mount (on the transmission) leave those bolts that go from the mount to mounting plate loose, then once everything gets lined up, and all bolts are placed in the correct position, then tighten everything upā¦
and i just realized whenever i was talking about āpumping fuel into your motorā i think i was talking about the fuel pump primingā¦ (causing pressure to register on the inline fuel pressure gauge)
alright figured out the wiring for the green/white and yellow/white one but still not sure about the black/blackwhite one. i found a bigger 2p connector but itās black/white black/white. heres the pic.
hummā¦ where are you looking? this is all near the back center where the stereo harness is located, right? itās long enough to down to where the shifter was, but the harness was from up thereā¦
yea if u look closely u can see the antenna plug that plugs into the back of the cd player. but the thing is they are both black/white. so im not sure about it. i dont see any other 2p plugs that are black/black-white and this plug here the prongs are biggerā¦ :hmm:
ok all i have left is the shift linkage but i figured iād try to start the car for funā¦ i hooked up ( i think ) all the electrical plugs and everything and put the battery in. my lights and all that work but i go to start the car ( with the clutch in cuz its in gear right now ) and i get nothing. i couldnāt hear no fuel pump or no clicking or anything. for the wiring all you do is take the wires out of the connectors and connect them together right? iām lost. its a nice day out so im gonna go get some more work done. if anyone has any suggestions iād appreciate it. thanks
are you sure you got the right wires connected together? and you didnt touch any other wiring or anything? main fuel relay plugged in? enough gas in the tank?
im almost positive i got the right wires connected except for the whole black/white black/white one. they are the bigger wires and they do go where the center console is. did not cross any wires but now that i think about it i didnāt check any fuses yet. i dont think i had to unplug the main fuel relay for this swapā¦ but ill check that out tooā¦ and there is plenty of gas thanks
*ill try and take some pics of what wires i connected
ok so i just got her started i had to manually jump the starter but at least i got it started. i only had it running for about 30 seconds though because i didnāt like a few things. rpms stayed at 4k. had some smoke goin on under the hood. are the rpms normal seeing that its a new ECU? thanks
*Edit- forgot about the vacuum hoses that i didnāt block off yet :shrug: hopefully gonna have this thing done real soonā¦ just waitin on a nice sunny dayā¦
i think that the wiring harnesses are different for a 90-91 and a 92-93.
i was just over at a friendās house who is doing the swap, and i untaped my wiring to see what was done to my car.
what it looks like in my car is this:
Two big wires (i think both are black/white) going to a 2-prong harness. The prongs on this harness are larger than the others so it is is easy to spot.
You need to jump these two wires to get the car to start. This is the wiring that tricks your car into thinking that it is in park.
The 10-pin connector is used for both your reverse lights and your key interlock.
If you are looking into the connector, there will be two rows of five.
On the bottom row, right hand corner, should be a pink wire.
The reverse lights tap into the two pins to the left of this pink wire.
The pink is only for a reference.
So one wire goes from the tranny to the pin directly to the left of the pink wire pin, and the other wire goes to the pin next to that.
On that same 10-pin connecter, you need to jump the two pins that are at the top, all the way on the right. So if you are looking at your pink wire at the bottom right corner, you need to connect the two pins that are directly above it, and directly above it and over one to the left.
This is what I did on my car and it worked fine. I have a 93gs.
EDIT: THE HARNESS IāM TALKING ABOUT MIGHT POSSIBLY HAVE 12 PINS
great illustration & information
thanks arpunk
anyone with 90-91 doing this can check theirs for wire color & see if itās the same?
this guy i know with a 91 by my house did this exact thing after i told him to and it works perfectly.
iād rather leave the connector in place than tear it off and solder wires.
Hey Tegboi you still need to know if the wire colors are the same?
Well for the 90-91ās its not the green/white and green/yellow that need to be connected, but it is the one above the pink and above and to the left. But mine were green/white and black.
how much did it all come too to switch from auto to standard as well as the new motor? I have plans with my 90 integra to change from auto to stick soon and was wondering how much it would cost
IGNITION WIRES ā
For the car to start if you want to wire in the clutch, this is what I did:
- Figure out with wires on the 2P connector (two fat black/white wires) which wire goes to the starter, and which goes to the ignition switch. I used a multimeter to do this. (the center thick WHT/RED wire on the steering column harness, middle cavity)
- Cut the 2P connector off, marking the wire that goes to the starter with red (black/red, as per helms) ā The wire that DOESNāT go to the ignition switch is this one.
- I took out the starter relay from my DB2 (Screwed to the side of the blower unit)
- The two thick BLK/WHT on the relay gets spliced togethor, and into the same wire from the 2P connector that goes to the ignition switch.
- The BLK/RED thick wire, goes to the BLK/WHT wire from the 2P plug that goes to the starter (the other wire that you should of marked BLK/RED)
- The BLK/BLU wire goes to the clutch switch, and getās grounded using the BLK wire to G301/G401 on the side of the dash above the fuse panel.
CURISE CONTROL SWITCH ā
- Wire the PINK and BLK wires from the clutch to the 14P connector that connects to the auto-cruise unit (They both exist on the connector, I think itās blue)
REVERSE LIGHTS ā
For those of you wiring in your reverse lights, I took the two wires from the tranny thru the firewall, and spliced them into the āC408ā plug on the fuse panel. The plug that connects to this is RED in color, and has 13 wires and a total of 14 cavities. This plug is what connects the main wire harness to the rear wire harness (reverse lights, etc)
- YEL (YEL/RED) wire from tranny goes to the YEL/RED on this connector
- GRN/BLK wire from tranny goes to the GRN/BLK on this connector.
I believe this is the most direct method totally bypassing all the old shifter wires, as per previous write ups.
KEYLOCK SOLENOID ā
- What I did was simply remove the KEYLOCK device from the steering column. I used the same off-white plastic cover plug that the M/T counterpart uses, itās the connector on the lock cylinder closest to the key itself. It has 3 wires that plug into a 4P connector that connects to another under the dash which connects to all the other shiftlock crap.
- I acctually removed the entire wire harness from the steering column, and replaced it with itās M/T counterpart, then taped off the 4P plug on the car.
LMK if anyone has problems following the above steps that I posted. I personally had NO problems starting up my car, or working the clutch / reverse lights as per my write-up. EVERYTHING worked 100% to OE specs on the first try.
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