hey all, i just finnished swapping a newer motor and a manual tranny into my auto '90 ls. ran into a few problems that i didnt find the answers for except in the helms manual. so me and Tom (Gigarange) figured it out.
(if anyone has the on computer version of the helms manual, this diagram for the key interlock switch is found on section 24, on page 4 on the very left side)
when you convert your auto to manual, when removing the center console, do not rip the wires out, “there are plugs, and everything plugs out, and back in” like is what is said in Shea’s write-up.
so the wires that basically need to be bypassed, are these two sets.
one set - the harness is a 2 wire harness. the plugs inside are larger then the ones on the 10 prong one (the larger ones)
black & black/white
this is to actually have your car to turn… it’s like when your in D, and your car dies on you, then you try to crank it over, but nothing happens. just like that. if you do not do this before you try to start the car, then gas will keep trying to pump into the motor…
then the other wires to be bypassed are the wires that release your key from the keyhole…
green/white & yellow/white (silverish lookin though…)
on the larger harness, with about 8 - 12 wires (not sure)
the green/white wire is located on one corner of the harness…
then the yellow/white (silverish lookin) is diagonal of it… so you just go up one, and over one. (it’s the only yellow wire on that harness)
then you just hook those up together.
suggested is to solder them together, but i just stripped the housing, then finger twistied it together, then used a needle nose plier to squeeze down on it. then i wrapped it with electrical tape.
as for the first two, to crank the motor over, i pulled the plugs from the harness, then just taped the two prongs together using electrical tape, and made sure it was very tight.
almost completely finnished, i will post again if i find anything else that needs bypassing…
thank you tom for helpin me out. 
HTH anyone who is doing the conversion…
archivethis 
Excellent followup! Now if this and mine could be posted somewhere together where everyone could find it, my e-mails would be cut in half;)
hehe, thanks Shea, maybe we could/should link each thread to each other… i got a few more tips of the conversion too… im finding out more stuff as im correcting things… and in contact with Hasport to see if they would design up a mount for me, for the auto-manual conversion…
also Shea - another tip if you can add it in your writeup, or have one together, the mount for the auto and manual on the frame is different by about 1 inch vertical, and about 3/4’s of an inch horizontal… i dint find out about the 3/4’s inch difference till now, when im not able to mount the motor correctly… how did u go upon doing it? im gonna see if i can use a cherry picker to hoist the motor, then bolt in the tranny side mount, then see if it’s possible to stretch it to bolt the other mounts in place…
(whew… that was about a full minute of non-stop thinking/typing at the same time)
I went over that in my writeup. All I did was use 1/2" tall nuts as shims in two places along with longer bolts and it worked out fine. Go check it out.
yea, i kno u went over the vertical part, but i dont remember nothin bout a horizontal one… hope i can get mine in soon though, hehe 
really late update… but auto-manual conversion is a success. and i found out, to extend the driver side mount. for a 90-91, you can use a 92-93 mount because it is longer. so it’ll take some stress off of the side mounts being stretched.
still havent hooked up my reverse lights hehe
Originally posted by tegboi
to extend the driver side mount. for a 90-91, you can use a 92-93 mount because it is longer. so it’ll take some stress off of the side mounts being stretched.
Good tip
Kevin,
What did you mean by this?
I have the two thick wires interconnected and the car turns over, but it seems like massive amounts of fuel is being dumped into the engine.
My car turns on fine, but I can not remove the key from the ingnition… I have to disconnect the battery… how do I get around this. All the write ups Ive seen suck… IMO… the wiring is the hardest part to understand… someone please clearify
Hey Brian,
To remove the key, there is a 2pin connector all by itself. The wires leading to the connector are Yellow and Yellow/Black. Stick a paperclip in that connector and your key should be removable.
I thought you were having idling problems with your swap!?
I think I know why… but havent had time to check it out…
Trying your tip now Duy…
It didnt work Duy… I have 3 2P connectors one has red-red/blue, yeallow/black and then the yellow&blk strip/black wires… which one?
lol i did it the lazy way :sleep: i left the white thingy gear selector hooked to the ignition cables and left the car on park, then relocated it to behind the dash lol then fuel pump is conected to the ignition , good thing about it is that i could be driving with someone behind me and then get the selector thingy and actually lite up the reverse light while rolling lol
Please clarify.
Brian, please check the other thread.
hey, sorry about the lag… i didnt realize that this thread was up here…
the two wire sets that you have to jump is for the “key lock”, and the other is for the “clutch in to start” - set…
you can find those wires near the center console where the stereo is… mine normally now sticks out the passenger side of the center console…
in any way, i never knew that the wires were somehow hooked up to the fuel pump…
as for too much fuel being pumped into your engine, i cant think of any way that can be happening… other then that, take a fuel pressure guage to your fuel line or to ur fuel filter to check it…
you can make your own by finding my thread on it also, here in the teg tips… it’ll only cost ya 10 - 20 bucks…
edit: here ya go… - http://www.g2ic.com/forums/showthread.php?t=95877
i’ll go mess with my car in a little bit, find out the exact colors of the wires to connect, then i’ll snap some pics for you guys too…
After I read your fuel pressure post, I did the same thing with a NOS oil filled gauge and Earls fittings. Fuel pressure is 45psi when the sytem primes.
i checked before, and found out that stock fuel pressure at prime, and running idle should be 36psi…
humm… do you have any fuel mods? management?
you can get a fpr to lower the pressure… about 40 bucks or sumthin for the ones that you have to chop your oem one to fit…
I do have an adjustable FPR that I haven’t installed yet. I’d hate to hack up my brand new ITR FPR 
just get another one… go to a junk yard, or pick n pull or some auto-dismantler…
what do i do about the passenger side mount? the passenger side mount is the one im having problems with and the driver side bolted right up.