Ok well I want to do this whole thing right. Here are my plans:
Buy the b20b from hmotorsonline.com
Take apart the engine and clean everything, sandblast it, polish it.
Get some new engine internals, mostly head work.
Ok now for my questions. I want to get all the stuff I need to for the final swap so I dont have to halt my project. People told me to look at the b16 swap and said it was almost the same so I have some questions about that…
Do i need a new clutch?
New exhaust piping if its too short?
New radiator?
New axels?
Surge - You dont NEED any of those but if you have the cash why not get it ne ways just to be safe? axels fit… clutch fits… no need to modify piping… its a straight forward swap. But like I said… if you have the cahs why not go out and get a new set of axels, new clutch/flywheel. The radiator doesnt need to be replaced either… HTH if you have any questions feel free to ask!
I am looking into getting a B-20 from hmotors too, They said that they only have b20b’s. What should I do to make it better, or more like the b20z? Is it just the pistons? I heard thet the z has 3 deg. more lobe on cam, is that the same as an LS, would my LS head be better than the b20b head? Thanks, Kevin
Dev90GS - Thanks man. I was just asking that cause I didnt know if they were different or not. I will email you or AIM you (if you have it) if I have any quick questions. I dont need a lot of that stuff because it was replaced only about 8,000 miles ago. I do have the extra money but I would rather spend that on working on the internals in the b20.
Blue - 93 - I see that you live in California. I dont know if you care about emissions or anything, but the b20b is USDM and the b20z is JDM. I think the USDM would be easier to pass in the State of California. I need a new engine anyways, and the b is cheaper.
I thought that the b20 was classified as a light truck engine, so it would fail a visual test pretty quick, espeically in California. I don’t live there though, so that’s just my guess. You figure if you’re paying the guy a little more to pass you for that, he wouldn’t care if it was the JDM.
Also, I’m pretty sure the b20z is usdm, from 99+ crv. The jdm b20b = usdm b20z
-both came from the crv suv only, both supposedly have the '94+ LS head. Both supposedly put up much better numbers in our LS’s with boltons
-the cr difference is due to different pistons
JDM
b20b - ('95?)'96- '01, hp - seems to perform like the USDM b20z, cr - some say it has to flat top pistons, some say the dished, some came with high rise intake, others come with a usable LS style intake mani.
b20z - no such thing in jap
-they came in three cars there, the crv, the orthia (car) and the sm-x (looks like a van).
Trindol: In response to the post about Smog issues. In Cali if you put any engine from a different model car ie. Civic-Integra-Prelude than you have to get it refereed, which is a visual check to assure that all emmission components are proprally connected and working once you do that then you have a certificate that says this engine can be smogged in this car. I plan on doing this after my swap, my friend just got his refd. its not difficult at all.
Originally posted by SecondRegime ok im getting a b20 from Hmotorsonline, how do i know if its the 146HP 133 Torque one or the 126 HP one? im confused
no way i know of 'cept by poppig off the head and looking at the pistons. thats the drawback of ordering a jdm engine, you kind of just take what you get.
I wouldn’t worry tho, even the usdm b20b’s seem to pull off way more power than those honda specs, when i integra trim anyways.
