Sound Isolation

ASSISTANCE Interior
1

Hey guys.

Read some more of Morasso’s thread and saw the picture of sound isolating stuff. Searched for sound isolation on these boards and didn’t come up with anything at all. Did some quick google research and got a better idea of what this is like.

Earlier this summer I ripped apart my doors and fixed up the doors somewhat, realigned them and greased them up a little. But in the process I tore the plastic covering the inside of the doors completely and have noticed a slight noise increase inside.

Here is my question: I am working up a list and a budget for the spring, lots of things I want to do to my car. Sound isolation is suddenly way up on the list, after driving my parents 2001 TL. :slight_smile: Now, I know where to get the supplies and all that, my question is where are the noisiest spots on our cars?

Number one spot to start, for me would be the doors. Then I would probably dig around the hatch area and eventually maybe do something under the dashboard, near the firewall.

Any guidance, suggestions and ideas?

http://www.teamrocs.com/technical/pages/sound_proofing.htm

http://www.pinliang.com.sg/perform/soundproof.htm

http://www.caraudio.com/forum/showthread.php?t=229057&highlight=deadener

http://www.hondatuningmagazine.com/tech/0408ht_1990_acura_integra_sedan_project/index.html

2

anywhere near the wheels. cover the firewall with insulation. I say just get a new-er car.

3

That’s pretty weak. This whole board is dedicated to one model, one generation and the suggestion I get is basically ‘Give up’. :slight_smile:

Nah, I’m keeping the teg. Has a lot of life in her, and besides, after all the close calls I’ve had, getting rid of this car would be a total betrayal.

4

dynamat is that peel and stick sound proofing stuff but it you want it for less then have buy peel and seal it the same stuff before the label it dynamat

5

Awesome dude! That’s whats up.

This will definitely go in my doors. And I read a bunch of other stuff, basically I’m all rigged with blueprints in my mind, cannot wait until I can lay my hands on the bitch, going to be mad tight.

Again, much obliged. :slight_smile:

6

i paid 45.00 for 18’’ x 100’ and dynamat is 150 and no were near as much
http://www.dynamat.com/store/store-car.asp

7

Yo, guys interested in this, check the last link I found.

Look at first post, last link.

8

Sound insulation is a very worthwhile project. I’ve done most of my Teg and it saved me from ditching the car for something quieter. BIG difference at 70 and 80 mph. I measured before and after with an el cheapo Radio Shack decibel meter to confirm that it worked.

Before you start, be sure to check out raamaudio.com and read up on what dynamat actually does. Dynamat dampens vibrations, it doesn’t really do much to stop sound transmission.

Depending on location, I used a dynamat knockoff plus ensolite (raamaudio.com or skandiaupholstery.com) plus the stuff at carinsulation.com. Do as many layers as you can fit in the areas around the wheels. The rear seat area over the wheels has room for many layers. I can still hear some noise there so I wish I had done more. Lots of road and exhaust noise comes from the rear of the car. Besides layering the hatch area, I took the fabric off the back of the rear seat and ran a layer of carinsulation down the back of the seat and onto the floor. I still need to do the roof, it is very noisy when it rains.

I was disappointed in the slight improvement I got from the doors. There was only room for dynamat knockoff and a little ensolite. I have read where people filled the door cavity with expandable foam, so I’ve considered going back and doing that.

9

Zombie!

Nah, thread ain’t that old. I just want to hand personal props for the last post, I just spent some time reading and calculating and planning and all that. Truly great resource and I am completely sold to their products:

http://www.raamaudio.com/

Will anybody be interested in a complete photo writeup in a form of a G2 specific front and rear leak fix and sound proofing? All in one whoop, like I will be doing in.

10

are any of my old threads still around about this? When I began my quest to sound deaden my da, I started by stripping out the interior completely. I also removed much of the vinyl sheeting on firewall, but left the pads on the floor.

The first step was to clean the interior… I first scrubbed it with soapy water, and then with alcohol (on the doors i removed the dust shield and all of the adhesive too). Then I put down a coat of bulldog (adhesive promoter).

The next step was to begin spraying bedliner. I sprayed everything below the pillars in this step, and I used appx 3 gallons. The doors skins and quarter panels received the thickest treatment, along with the area below the hatch. I left the bedliner for a couple days to dry with the windows down, but the smell will remain for a while.



The next step was to apply b-quiet ultimate. I used between 50 and 100 sq feet, but its been a while so I’m not sure exactly how much. I applied a layer on the door skins, quarter panel, front floorbed, and roof. I applied two layers to the area below the hatch, and the wheel wells. There is more but let me get to that later


After that, I applied sheets of vinyl, foam-backed deadening. I used around 20sq ft of this. This was used to replace the firewall and continued down to the seat mounts. I also used it along the wheel wells and the back behind the hatch.

Now comes the foam. I used a few different types of foam as listed: a roll of half inch carpet padding, a few 4’-8’ 1in high density foam sheets, and a couple rolls of 1/2 in weather stripping. The carpet padding was laid underneath the carpet all the way to the rear seats. The inch foam was used to fill the quarter panel pocks, the hatch lid, and all behind the rear panels. The weather stripping was placed along everywhere that panels contacted each other or the car.

Now back to the bquiet, I then proceeded to lay another layer on all of the areas that I had filled with the high density foam and along the inner door frame. This included the quarter panels and hatch lid. The door was covered except for the speaker hole, and a small pass-through for the linkage rods.


If I could do it again, I would also spray the outside of the rear from the hatch down (behind the filler panel and bumper) and I would deaden the filler panel(with my stereo I could watch that panel move back and forth 1/2 to an 1in).

11

Ehh I should theres some stuff I forgot, or didn’t explain in detail. I will probably go back through it when I get the interior re stripped out of the car and take some new pictures. Total cost, it was somewhere between 3-600. Worth it? every penny. All because I was tired of having no stereo in the car, and when I got around to putting a cheap setup in the noise drove me crazy.

12

Sweet! That is exactly how my car looks right now. Thanks a ton. :clap:

13

visible, i just did my entire car with the stuff from raamaudio. the ensolite matting stuff works way more than the raammat for sound deadening. i bought one roll of the raammat and 7 yards of the ensolite. its like driving a new car.

14

Oh man, stop teasing me. I was just testing my soldering points on the new Pioneer amp. I got a 500W RMS dual coil 15" sub in the back and I just now found a killer amp for it that is stable 630W RMS at 2ohms for $60 shipped.

Cannot WAIT! to do my car and thank you thank you thank you fore sharing that last bit of information.

15

The ensolite sounds like the vinyl sheeting I used, If you look in the 6th picture the black pad in the spair tire well is the stuff I used. You can get it in 1 or 2 lb/sq ft. If you are going to be using a lot of it, the same stuff can be found for commercial use for much cheap then car branded specifics…

Also I would be slightly weary of using pealnseal… I have heard stories of it separating in the heat…

here is a couple more teasers to keep you motivated.



16

[QUOTE=darin d;1818494]here is a couple more teasers to keep you motivated.
[/QUOTE]
Same front speakers!

17

I was pretty happy with the alpine type-s. I thought they have a richer sound then the type-r, and they definitely were an upgrade from the pioneers before them. I would strongly suggest you no run rear fill, and instead get a decent 2 channel amp for them up front. Just running a 50-60rms/channel amp on them makes a world of difference.