Here is some additional information that has come back to me from other source.
I was asked how I determined my Wheel rates?
Motion Ratio
Take the spring off the damper and put the damper back on. With the wheel/tire removed, move the wheel hub from full droop to full compression in 1" increments. Measure and record corresponding strut displacements. With the data, correct the wheel hub displacement numbers by the wheel off-set to get the theorectical wheel displacement.
Wheel VS Spring Rate
Integra G2 motion ratios:
Front: 1.5:1 (for one inch of shaft travel you get 1.5 inches of wheel travel.
Rear: 1.35:1
Wheel rate = (spring rate / (motion ratio squared))
Front wheel rate = spring rate / 2.25
So 400 lb front spring gives a wheel rate of 180,
and a 600 lb spring gives a wheel rate of 270.
Rear wheel rate = spring rate / 1.82
From this information Joe Chung a friend, engineer, car builder, and SCCA multi national champions driver of the worlds fastest autocross car A/MOD wrote.
"With your current set up, your wheel rate is only 0.25x corner weight for the front. For the rear it’s 0.58x corner weight. No wonder you are bottoming out in the front. Most competition cars’ suspension frequencies are around mid to high 2 cycles per second. That equals to wheel rate around 0.6 - 0.8X the corner weight. Currently, there is a lot of discussion among the Formula Ford guys as well as the D/E Mod guys from SCCA about going to 1-1.5X corner weight. I think for autox, 1X is about the upper limit and 1.5X is overkill. For a street driven car, I would say 0.5x the corner weight is about the maximum one would want to go. This would mean 430# front wheel rate. With the motion ratio you provided, spring rate up to 1000# could be used. To prevent understeer, you might need to reduce the front sway bar size somewhat. This would reduce the front roll rate which would balance out some of the increase from the stiffer springs. The net result is that at corner entry, under brake (when sway bar has no effect), the stiffer springs would reduce chassis movement, hence less chance of bottoming, also less suspension geometry changes. You will need better quality 2-way adjustable shocks to go with the set up. They will provide an increase in rebounce damping (needed for the stiffer springs) without increasing the bump rate (which might be the current cause for your car skipping over rough pavement). Don’t forget, overly stiff rebounce will also feel like overly stiff spring.
As far as shorter shocks are concerned, I think all cars with reduced ride height should use them. With shorter shocks, proper length bump rubbers could be used and that would provide a gradual increasing in spring rate rather than a sharp increase. You can alway use hard plastic shims to shim the bump rubber down but you can’t do it the other way around with a longer shock.
Joe"