Thank god I have a 5 speed… lol, For the past YEAR I’ve been having to RANDOMLY pop teh clutch to get that engine rolling, Sometimes it will crank on the first try, sometimes the second, sometimes it won’t crank at all from ign… These past two weeks it’s gotten worse and I’ve had to park my car only on hills lol and ask people to move their cars when they park behind me xD So embarrassing…
Anyways, Starter sounds fine, I’ve Jumped the starter using jumper cables, 4 out of 5 times after I’ve HAD to jump-start the starter, my car will start like nothing ever happened from the ignition. (Very weird). about 3 months ago I had to push it up a small hill 'cause not even THAT would help. but this method helped me two days ago when I was in a bit of a pinch
Clutch was changed two years ago, Flywheel resurfaced… Could it be that the flywheel is Effed up and locks the starter in place? iono where the starter links to the engine…
OH! Where the hell is that Starter Relay?! I’ve looked for it for MONTHS lol Haynes book is no help with that.
Thanks guys! =) The last thing I wanna do is take it to a mechanic who will only tell me I need a new starter… At least that’s what they told me a year ago and I listened. They changed it TWICE those imbeciles and still didn’t get it right… -_- second time was free corz…
The problem may be the ign. switch, the CIS, [clutch interlock switch] or the starter relay, possibly the wiring between the above.
You said a bypass jump works, [a jumper from batt. pos.(+) to the starter motor solenoid], if so the starter motor and the solenoid are good.
Because you say you could get it to work by “popping the clutch” I would check the CIS first, just unplug it and install a jumper into the plug, CIS is located high on clutch lever bracket.
The starter relay is located to the right of the heater control unit, a PITA to access on a G2.
I have never had to replace one, it has always been a problem with the ign. switch, CIS, starter motor or solenoid or a wiring problem.
The CIS will have a black and a black/blue lead running to it, unplug and jump the two leads. 94
I bypassed the CIS after the wire broke off of the switch, and I couldn’t fix it, lol so now all I have to do is leave it in neutral and pop that ignition switch =D YAY SIMPLENESS!
I see what you mean by “to the right of the heater control unit”, I just don’t know what you mean by “a PITA to access on a G2.” what’s a PITA?
I removed the glove box compartment and came across a relay, as far as I could tell it was the only one, and it was attached to what looked like the cabin air filter… I couldn’t open it because I lacked the spare time to do it but I wanted to just to see how dirty it was…
Anyways, I unplugged that relay completely, and to see if that WAS the starting relay I turned the switch to start and the car started still… it started good for some reason, so I left that relay unplugged to see if the Chk Eng light came on or something, but 9 starts and still nothing… 4 of those starts I had to pop the clutch again… I’ll keep looking for that relay but, Can anyone tell me what that relay was for? Thanks. I’ll try to get pictures this time.
do your dash lights go completely out when it wont start and have you looked into the Main Fuel Relay this is a common starting culprit most of the time the solder cracks on the relay just search for MFR i would leave you with a link but i just wanted to take a quick look on the greatest website in the world…:rockon::rockon:
sorry fcm my mistake i :rockon:didn’t really think about it when i wrote it sounds kinda like a failing ignition switch i recently had to replace mine due to similar problems its not to difficult to get too you could open it up and check out the contacts inside of the switch itself just an idea because i don’t wanna tell you to buy parts and them not fixing the problem. Also here is where the starter relay is http://www.g2ic.com/forums/showthread.php?t=193469&highlight=starting+relay
Yeah, all my dashboard lights and everything inside turns off when I turn the key to “START”, OMG! and yeah… as a matter of fact one time everything turned off, the car didn’t start, AND NOTHING was working, even after turning the key off and turning it back to ON.
These past three days it’s been starting great though, and I think it’s due to the cold weather… Damn factors @_@ :dozing:
the Fuel relay I also had to change about 4 years ago… I’ll find some time to check on that ignition switch to see if I can find abnormalities.
A complete loss of power when cranking to start indicates a poor “main” electrical connection either on the ground or power side.
Cold weather would have an effect on a a poor connection.
To confirm it is a connection problem and not an ign. switch problem you need to see if none switched circuits also lose power.
EG; if you turn on the dome light, [or leave door open] when starting the car and dome light goes out when engine will not crank , it is a connection problem, [it is normal for dome light to dim a little when cranking to start, but not go completely out].
If the above is the case, start by checking your main grounds, [batt. neg.(-) post and clamp, batt to. chassis ground (under batt.) and chassis to engine ground] these should be removed, both contact surfaces cleaned and reconnected.
The same goes for the power side, [batt. pos.(+) post and clamp, batt. to engine bay fuse box, batt. to starter motor and the engine bays fuse box main fuses, again, remove, clean both contact surfaces and reconnect. 94
You made a good point, I forgot to mention that I had excellent power connections to the battery ^^; and that’s a good way to check the power now that you mention it =) but my dome stays on when I try to crank even if it fails at starting.
I’ll check the ignition, Thanks for ur help man, u’ve been very informative.
Here’s a small list of what I have new in my car… I’ll get back with this after I have found out if it’s the relay or the starter switch =D
Starter. (1.5 years old)
Battery Connectors, (Not corroded at all and tightly placed)
Battery’s new too…
Distributor,
Alternator,
NGK Spark plugs (only 3 months old)
NGK Spark Wires (about 3 years old now)
aaaaaand Fuel Pump Relay.
OH! and I forgot to mention that I do have an alarm system in my car but no power locks…
As I mentioned before, the Clutch sensor broke 5 months ago but I just connected both wires real tight with a red wire connection crimp so now I don’t need to press on the Clutch at all to get the car started. .
Always ALWAYS park in Neutral if you’re gonna do this lol.
i hope you find the problem out soon a good indication of the ignition switch that i found is when i tried to crank it and i let it go to run position my dash lights would black out completely then come back on. let us know how you are doing.:rockon:
OMG! are you effing serious?! I thought that was normal!! When in “START”, my dash lights turn off completely, including my radio, but when it goes to the “ON” position the lights come back on.
I’ll check tonight to see if my dash lights turn off when it starts. :rockon:
50 bux says its your starter plunger and contacts. they sell them on ebay for about $30. to everyone who have starter problems, never bring your NIPPONDENSO starter to be traded for crappy aftermarket ones, just change your plunger and contacts!!!
[QUOTE=TeKnO.StatiK;2093767]OMG! are you effing serious?! I thought that was normal!! When in “START”, my dash lights turn off completely, including my radio, but when it goes to the “ON” position the lights come back on.
I’ll check tonight to see if my dash lights turn off when it starts. :rockon:[/QUOTE] It is normal for the radio and most things to go out when cranking to start, but not things like dome light, glove box light and anything that works when ign. switch is off, [hot at all times].
So turn on the dome light and start the car, if engine does not crank and dome light goes out, it is a connection problem., if engine does not crank and dome light does not go out, it is another problem.
If engine does not crank, [and dome light does not go out] try a “bypass” jump. 94
na see what i meant is when it starts for a second then dies and everything blacked out in my cluster then clicks back on like a reset.sorry bout that. Heres an example http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UWP-DcQJRbk
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