so to begin the car wouldn’t start and it wasn’t getting spark had the coil tested and it was bad. replaced and still didn’t start so i replaced cap and rotor. finally started with that and it was misfiring so i replaced the wires and plugs as well. ran fine for awhile as i drove it to a couple stores then i parked it at home and it died after idling a few mins. would not start again after this. later that evening i tried to start again and just moved the position of the distributor a little and it ended up starting but now as i drove it around the block it died a few times and started up after a few tries and keeps doing that.
timing belt was done about a year and half ago along with a new distributor which i just replaced the coil in.
thanks for any help
When it dies, first check again that you’re getting spark. If you aren’t, check for power at the distributor when the problem is occurring
yeah that’s where i should start. i have a feeling though its the icm/ ignitor seems that the only part i didn’t replace in the distributor. and a year and a half ago it did the same thing and i replaced the whole distributor. had an idea though that i probably wont try. the icm has a heat sink on it with thermal compound, i wounder if the thermal compound could be reapplied and fix it from overheating. the whole part only cost 50 bucks with a warranty so not sure i wanna mess with it.
Let’s pinpoint the problem first. It could also be the crank sensor. But let’s make sure the problem is no spark Before heading down that road. You can also try pulling the codes. A bad crank sensor will usually set a code
i would need a check engine light to get any codes right? i could always just check them with an ohmeter anyways i guess. i think i may have a vacuum leak too i noticed a new tear in one of the hoses from the fuel rail area ill check it out today. I was doing a little more research on the ignitors too and usualy if they are going bad the tac jumps around or it just goes out all together. ill test that too though. its getting spark though because it starts right back up each time it dies.
checked the sensors and they all got around 384 and the book says between 350 and 700 so that checks out good. it looks like that hole in the hose is for the air boost valve, i pulled on it while running so it had a clear opening for a leak and it didn’t seem to do anything although im sure that could still be the problem seems a hole isn’t good lol. ill check the ignitor with the meter too and see how that goes.
just recently had this problem and after much headache and changing so much found out it was the ignitor.
so i was testing the ignitor following the book with a meter and all the wires were getting power but the blue wire which looks like its for the tac and wasnt really doing anything and it started making something click maybe the coil. but i took the coil out just to test it again and im getting the right ohms for the secondary of 10.9 and the book says between 9.76 to 14.64. but the primary i was getting 1.6 and it should be .06-.08. so is my week old coil already going bad? lol. and i just pushed the vacuum house so that it covers where the hole is until i can replace it.
ok i just did a test with the old coil that the auto parts store tested and said was bad and im getting pretty close to the same readings as above which should make it bad…wtf
The igniter feeds power to the coil. If the output from the igniter is weak, then the coil output will be weak too. A wacky tachometer will not always be present in a bad igniter. That bad hose u mentioned, replace it and see what happens. Find someone with a good igniter and retest. If all else fails try swapping distributors, then engine computers with a known good one. Always buy a Honda brand igniter. They are the same price as competitors and they are very high quality. You can use arctic silver cpu thermal grease, which is available at any decent computer parts store. Apply a dab of it between the igniter and heat sink and another small dab where the heat sink contacts the distributor housing.
i ended up buying an igniter today, it’s a master pro brand but has a lifetime warranty. put it in and it started right up ( stopped starting last night all together) let it warm up and drove it around the block and has good power and didn’t die at all. can i get hosing like that anywhere pretty much? the thing is on their soo damn tight so I’m scared if i grab one from the junk yard ill damage it trying to get it off. oh and i took the coil back in just to double check and it was fine i was just testing the primary on the wrong settings i guess.