I have always appreciated the input from FCM. I have some new components for my car audio and need some input or help for this system.
Here is the current set up:
Headunit:
Panasonic CQ-C9901U
Amps:
JVC KS-AX4550
100W x 4
Koiier XM-8787
400W x 2 NEW
Speakers:
10" JL Audio Sub in Ported Box NEW
Running Polk Components in front stock locations
Running Fosgate mids in rear stock locations.
Running Streetwire RCA’s. Phoenix Gold Speaker Wire.
New Optima Red Top Battery
My issue is that when I have the sound up loud and the bass hits, my RPM’s drop. Not to stall out but enough that I notice it. Does this mean I need a higher Amp Alternator?
Is a Legend Alternator any better than an Integra stock Alternator? Do I need a Farad Capacitor?
I have already added multiple grounds from the battery. I do have this funky little junction box and need to know if I should replace it or run power wires straight to battery from Amps?
I added pics of the junction box and battery for your review.
Any help is always appreciated! Thanks in advance
I have circuit bracker in mine an that would fit were you have that junction box as far as the drop on the rpm i would put in a Farad Capacitor as I am sure at night your light dim as well wright? that my .002 cents for you …on a side note you have a legend alt.in your car?what year is it as I did not know they fit looked at one onetime an it look like it mounted the oppsite of ours
Well for starters shit can that j box. I have no idea why that is being used. The next thing would be to get another battery post clamp that matches. That cheap one can’t be helping. After that go have the charging system checked with a load such as your stereo. See what you got. If your still running oe cable from your alt to the fuse box that could also be a problem. As far as a legend alt, I got nothing for ya.
Good luck.
Would bet on the fact that you dont have a capacitor is the problem… Think about it… Your problem only happens when the system is on loud and the bass hits. That means everything is wired up and functioning correctly, but your battery/alternator can’t handle the power-draw when the bass hits. So the junction box nor the battery terminal are the direct causes of this.
Changing those things out, along with a bigger Alt-to-fusebox ground wire is a good idea, but I dont think these are the cause of your issue. Im sticking with the lack of capacitor.
a capacitor will keep your problem from happening but they are only band aids. try running more grounds from your amp to the chassis and get a dry cell battery and loop it with your amp. http://www.kinetikaudio.com/2009/default.asp
those little things do wonders thats what i run…i never liked capacitors
Thanks for all of the tips. Did all of the grounds except the alt to fusebox. Try that one too. I can replace the positive battery clamp if needed.
Capacitors don’t seem too expensive these days…any brand to stay away from?
I have replaced all grounds from amps to chassis. Had unit has been grounded.
If I remove junction box thing, just run power directly
from battery? In line fuse needed?
put in a inline fuse if you dont rub a circuit breaker
Silly question but Circuit Breaker = Junction box?
Actually no. Circuit breaker cuts power and junction box divides power.
Just run the power directly from the battery and use an inline fuse like others have said.
yes def use an inline fuse its supposed to be 8-10 inches from the battery if i remember correctly and id guess somewhere around 80-120 amp fuse and i know you said u replaced the grounds but have u tried adding some from the amp to the chassis?