i have posted in the past saying that my car burns rich, my exhaust and back of my car are constantly black
i have tried many things, i know my catylitic converter is clogged because of this as well, i have a new one but dont want to install it til i find the problem.
initial thougts was o2 sensor but when i tested it, it seemed alright, plus it was replaced about 1.5 yrs ago, 24k ago
what else might be my problem?
any thoughts would help, thanks
is your FPR good?
Re: still burning rich, need help again!!
Originally posted by b17avtec
i have posted in the past saying that my car burns rich, my exhaust and back of my car are constantly black
i have tried many things, i know my catylitic converter is clogged because of this as well, i have a new one but dont want to install it til i find the problem.
initial thougts was o2 sensor but when i tested it, it seemed alright, plus it was replaced about 1.5 yrs ago, 24k ago
what else might be my problem?
any thoughts would help, thanks
This could be just about anything in your fuel management system causing the problem. I would dismiss the possibility or liklihood of ignition being a concern though…
You may want to look at the output and grounding of your MAP sensor and also both thermosistors (CTS and IAT). They both work in accordance with a resistive circuit in the ECU (picture a resistor on both ends of the circuit – one temperature dependent and the other static). The pulse width of the fuel injectors will change depending on the condition reported to the ECU (same for the MAP). It would appear that there’s something in your fuel management system that’s signaling the ECU to keep increasing the pw of the injectors even once the car is well warmed up.
If you need a little guidance, email me. Try to be as descriptive as you can when describing a problem here and we will roll with the punches from there. I think a stuck IACV pintle will cause a similar problem.
You are right in thinking that the O2 sensor may be causing problems. This sensor has the most ‘authority’ over the pw of the injectors. The problem could be two-fold though also… perhaps a messed up sensor is causing the injectors to hold open longer which increases the amount of unburned fuel in the exhaust… this may end up contaminating your O2 sensor… If you want to eliminate that circular kind of possibility, you might try disconnecting the O2 sensor and ignoring the code to see if your problem goes away…
If your MAP sensor’s voltage is off by just a little, it can make a huge difference to both fuel economy and drivability.
blah blah blah…
Andrew.
sorry so freeeeeekin’ long guys… I have this whacky Cuban coffee we’ve been drinking…