stock b17 rods safe till 200 whp ...??

– found another pissing contest on honda-tech–
dude says with ARP bolts stock b17 rods should be safe up there at 200whp…c’mon should i believe this–? i wanna crower but at $630+ i’m shaking… - and with eagle rods… i’m not sure ‘some b17’s work and some don’t’ thing has been solved yet …

same post sys CTR’s in B17 are getting 12.3:1 --stock head gasket/no milling … i would love it-- but kinda scary with CR that high … didn’t hybridsedan have this setup?.. anyone know if he ever calculated CR… and not with those internet calculators…

i need better knowledge

BTW … here is the link

Honda Parts are built very well. I have oem B17 rods with ARP bolts. I did have the rods shotpeend though. I should have 180-190whp NA & plan to use 100 shot of N2O.

y wouldnt they be strong? i mean its hard enough to get 200whp out of b17 anyways… there are guys i know running 250hp+ on a stock block turbo b16… you should be fine

The stock rods should be fine. It wouldn’t hurt to shotpeend them just for added insurance. Regarding the c/r with ctr pistons, I’m running the same setup on b17a. Just recently, a member on HT measured the dome displacement on a ctr piston and found that it is really 6.xx cc rather than 8.63cc as stated on most online calulators. With this the case (also remember it’s a negative deck height with ctr’s in a b17a), with a stock headgaset, the c/r will come out to approx 11.7 (not 12.xx). I don’t know much on how to CC something but the information seems pretty accurate.

1.7NA

input is great so far — anymore ? – —

200 NA horsepower is not a big deal for stock rods. They’ll shrug it off. What you need to be worried about is the fact that making that HP is probably going to nessecitate you revving higher. The rods WONT like that.

hmmm… Notstock93, thnks for the reply… and thats a great train of thought —well every thing with a plan – my max rev limit is gonna be 9000 rpm…-- maybe my question should’ve been ‘stock b17 rods with ARP bolts @ 9000rpm’ … i figure i dyno at 157.6 right now … jus i/h/e-- stock ecu 8200 rpm – extra 800 rpm, some more compression and a little displacement bump should put me where i wanna be … i expect to honadata and cam w/valve train – so come what may power level when its tuned – --jus checking to see if this is at least semi reliable –

hmm…I wouldnt try 9 grand with stock rods if I were in your position. There really isnt any need to rev to 9 grand unless you have the most agressive of aftermarket cams.

I would say 8.6-8.7k is the safe max limit. Remember, making power that high is hard enough. To make an engine reliable while withstanding those RPM is a whole nother story.

My B16 (with 1.74 rod ratio) doesn’t go higher than its intended redline even with balancing and ARP bolts. I dont want to break anything, and I dont make power higher than 8k anyway.

geez
1.7na is right on the compression ratio… 11.8 is what i get… either way, its not that bad of CR.

one thing i find amusing is how everyone is soo worried about r/s ratio and high rpm.

in my lsvtec, i’ve got balanced and resized LS rods with ARP rod bolts. when i race, it see’s 8200 rpm easily… when i get my new head/cam setup, they’re gonna see 8600 rpm.

the rodstroke ratio of the b17 is way better than the LS and b18c motors…
also, i’ve seen the stock rods from the b16, and assuming the b17’s are very similar, they’re beefy compaired to the LS rods.
there’s no reason a b17 rod couldnt handle 9k rpm. especially if you have them balanced and fitted with ARP rod bolts and resized… i think shot peening is overrated (my opinion)…

balancing the motor for high rpm is the Key (that and making sure your valvetrain can handle it)

with all due respect, 8,200 RPM is NOT 9,000. Inertial loads on all reciprocating assembly DOUBLES at 9,000 when compared to 8,000.

Ive personaly been in a hatch that turned 10k RPM on stock LS rods, balanced with ARP bolts (LS/VTEC with huge cams).

It can be done, but I would never do it.

As for your your LS/VTEC, when you start actually turning higher than 8,200RPM, tell us how the longevity is.

I’m not sure how well the b17 rods hold up, but the gsr I bought has i/h/e and a 50 shot of nitrous. when I took apart the engine everything looked fine. The one thing I would worry about at 9,000 rpm is valve float. I would upgrade to itr valve springs and retainers.

The B17A rods are good to about 250whp. But for a daily driver, I wouldn’t do more than 210whp on them. ARP bolts just allows it to hold together better for higher revs!

I wouldnt see why they wouldnt be fine with ARP rod bolts …but id make sure that the rotating assembly is balanced to at least within 3grams…i am a slight noobie when it comes to honda motors, but i run a 1982 chevy 350…with stock (NON SHOTPEENED) rods and i had teh rods and the crank balanced, and it sees 7500rpm all the time. All i upgraded was to arp rod bolts. The balancing is a big part of it. Although shot-peening does wonders. My best friend had a 440 in his challenger, and popped the motor…the stock rod he had shot peened and shaved, twisted into an S shape but did not break. So i wouldnt be that worried about a rod letting go…id be more concerned with the rod bolt letting go.

I’ve been reving to 9500 rpms with my Shotpeended B17 rods for over 2 years now{ask memeber redline/ralfy, if I baby my car}. I’ve sprayed a wet 75 shot for over 6 months, going through a 10lb bottle in 5 days and they held up fine.
The last rebuild was because I spun a rod bearing, but I reused the same rods.
They were reballanced of course, including the pistons, flywheel, clutch disc and pressure plate but none the less, held up well to the abuse.
ps: arp bolts are a given on any performance rebuild.
-r0ni3.