I have a knocking noise coming from the Front left wheel. It’s only when rolling, & picks up tempo the faster the car moves. when I push the clutch in, it continues, so i don’t think it’s tranny related. I’m thinking either CV joint or Wheel bearing. But would a wheel bearing make a noise like that or would it just start to grind? Also, how much are those lifetime guranteed CV axles from Autozone if that is infact the problem? What would be the best way to determine wether or not that’s what it is?
I just realized I posted this in the wrong forum like a moron…If someone would like to move it to suspension that’d be great.
Right on, that isn’t too bad. Other than going aftermarket (don’t want to shell out that much cash for axles), are there axles out there that are a better option? Also, does that even sould like the problem based on the symptoms I described to you guys?
Sometimes the brake caliper can exhibit a knocking noise. Does the noice disappear when you apply the brakes?? If not,it could be a bad c.v. joint. Usually the c.v. will start to show signs of going bad when turning sharply,thats when youll start to hear the knocking. Bad wheel bearings dont normally make a clunking,or knocking sound.One note on axle warranty. Most companies that offer lifetime dont cover if the boot has been ripped or allowed to leak grease.
I had a knocking in the front left with exact symtoms you are describing. I had already replaced that drive axle with an Autozone unit about a year earlier. I went ahead and swapped it for free with another Autozone unit and the knock is gone. BUT, the new unit has a slight clicking in tight right handers, so I don’t expect this unit to last more than a year either. I have said it before, and I say it again, Autozone should find another rebuilder or have their current rebuilder up the quality control. But to be honest with you, I think Autozone is losing money by having crappy rebuilds, because in a lifetime, I will probably replace these axles 3 or 4 times each. But I still applaud Autozone for giving us such a reasonable alternative to OEM price axle.
check and make sure you haven’t lost any bolts on the caliper. i had a bolt back out that held the caliper to the knuckle…made a nice knocking noise against the wheel.
I believe I found the culprit…I got my car up on a lift today after work, checked the CV’s, and there’s virtually no play in them at all. My front left brake caliper, however, is dragging the pads on the rotor pretty damn hard…I’m thinking the piston in the caliper isn’t retracting all the way, and the slight warp in the rotor is throwing the caliper back & forth. Does that sound like a good theory? What would cause the caliper to do this & is it fixable? Is there a caliper rebuild kit I can get, or should I just look for a whole new caliper?
hey does your steering wheel shake when the brakes are applied going over 20mph? i have that noise but from the right side and i know that my left caliper is kind of siezed. i need to get my car in the air and inspect everything saturday.
the steering wheel only shakes if i brake hard going over like 50 mph. But due to the fact that I work @ a shop, w/ my core a new set of calipers will probly only run like 50 bucks, so i’m just gonna replace both of 'em. If the noise is still there, then i’ll change my cv axles, but I kinda doubt that’s the problem now.
The mystery has been solved!!! And it was fixable for FREE! My slidders on the caliper were COMPLETELY siezed up! The lubricant that honda put in the boots 13 years ago had turned into 4-5 clumps of tar on each pin. I was shaking I had to pull so hard to get one of pins out of the caliper, and they’re sposed to slide out w/ ease. So I just took everything over to the solvent tank, cleaned 'em up, put a bunch of new silicone based brake grease in there & wala!! No more binding wheel & no more irritating knocking noise!! I definately plan on doing this to the other 3 calipers when I get my new pads/rotors/lines later this summer.
Yes, the 12mm bolts are screwed into the slider pins. Remove the bolts and pull the slider pins out. I always clean and sand (if needed) the slider pins to make them super smooth.
The auto parts store sells a brake caliper pin lube made specifically for these in little 99 cent packets. I bought one little packet and it has serviced like 4 brake jobs so far.
This morning I actually just replaced my driver’s side rotor because at high speeds, when I hit the brakes, the steering wheel would want to shake out of my hands. Now it is smooth as glass and stops much better.