i have a 1000watt sony xplod amp and 1 rockford fosgate punch 10" sub [300w]. i use to have 2 in the car…but i think one of the subs blew…i dont know why tho. I dont want to buy another sub and risk it blowing…my question is can i run another one…or does anyone know why my other 10" blew? im pretty good with electrical…but i dont understand anything about the rms and what not…or bridging? helps appriciated
heres pictures of what i have
AMP
RMS is constant power, how much the sub/amp can handle constantly…This is the only power that really matters. Peak is the max power it can handle, but only for a short time. So bascially, if your amp provides more rms than the speakers, and you were maxing it out, it could blow
anything else?
what are the rms of your subs and amp per channel. bridging is when you combine the two channels into one, used if you only have one sub with a two+ channel amp. ALSO MAKE SURE YOUR GROUNDS ARE GOOD, very important. what else do you want to know.
First, your amp, XM-1652Z is a 2x165W RMS into 4 ohms, 2x200W RMS into 2 ohms or 1x400W RMS into 4 ohms, [bridged]
All the above ratings are at 14.4V
RMS = root mean square, and although commonly used for both amps and speakers it is a misnomer, it means the average instantaneous power output measured over a long time, or simply put what the output of an amp is with an acceptable amount of THD, [total harmonic distortion] and as stated it is the only one you need to deal with, yes your amp will make 2x380W @4 ohms and 1x1000W @ 4 ohmsmax however THD is very high and DC output is high, clipping.
Your sub R/F P110S4 is a 10" 4 ohm 150W continuous, [RMS] 300W peak/max.
Again it is the continuous, [RMS] power handling, [150W] that you need to consider.
The long and short of it is you can use the amp to drive the one sub that is still working, however you will have to be careful of the gain setting on the amp.
The first thing to do is test both subs, start by pressing the cone, use both hands and gently press the cone in and out, even pressure over the whole cone is needed, if cone will not move, [seized] sub is N/G, if you hear any “scratching/scraping” sound, sub is N/G.
You will need a multimeter for other tests, but you can do a “continuity” test with amy batt., [a 9V works best] touch the pos.(+) and neg.(-) terminals of the batt. to the pos.(+) and neg.(-) terminals of the speaker, [sub] if the VC, [voice coil] has continuity, the speaker will “pop”, if the pos.(+) of the batt. is on the pos.(+) of the speaker and neg.(-) is to neg.(-) the cone will “pop” out, if reversed the cone will “pop” in.
The batt. test is not an indication of the condition of the VC, only that it is not “open”, [broken].:bowthank:94
thank u…1 more thing
the rockford is 150 RMS-300 Peak
when i plug in the other sub…the amp shuts off, im gonna try turning down the gain…but i want to get the most “punch” i can out of the sub’s/amp without blowin em.
i’ll go try to figure it out…thanks for the help.
You will get the most “punch” from that amp by using two 200W 2 ohm subs wired in series for a 4 ohm load, [or a pr. of 150W subs also 2 ohm] and bridging the amp into mono, 1x 400W RMS, a little overpowerd is a good thing.:whisper: 94