I’m looking at replacing my worn b18 in my 90 gs, and I was looking for some suggestions, I know that what ever I put in there will stay pretty much a stock engine, no turbos or anything like that, maybe some mild stuff. I was thinking about a b16 or something like that, or should I just rebuild my b18 with some cams and an intake manifold or something like that instead? Just looking for a little more zip, not trying to build a 4 cyl corvette or anything. Thanks in advance.
If u are staying non vtec then yea stay with the b18a, b motors.
Now if u are looking at vtec then get a GSR motor.
If i were you though which i think u plan to do is to get same b18a1 direct drop and no hassle
Basic I/H/E then
- Cams
2.cam gears
3.SAFC if u plan to tune soon - Stay away from Intake manifold if u arent planning to rev pass 7-7.5rpm coz its no use and u probably low end tq. What i would do is get the manifold u have ported to 62-64mm and get a matching TB with that and u should be set.
Bigger runner is great for top end meaning if u plan to rev pass 7.5krpm up to even 9k rpm.
My friend has I/h/e and skunk 2 manifold with liek 179k miles. i have same thing and stock manifold and i pull him hard.
he makes power @ about 4k rpm all the way to redline or whenever his peak.
Me at the time had same setup as him but stock IM a/c and ps belt removed only. example…
thanks for the help, you got was i was looking for. I think cams would be in the picture. I already have intake and exhaust, and that helped, now i’m just looking for a few more ponies to help her keep up with some of the more modern cars. What kind of cams and gears would you reccomend for this kind of project?
Crower stage 2 cams. Gotta add the springs & retainers to keep it strong. Skunk2 cam gears.
If you’re gonna do this, then rebuild your B18a1. Do the basic on the bottom, (rings, bearings,seals) Then add the cams, gears, springs & retainers, & all seals & gaskets on the head. Get a good tune & some tranny mods to match. (stage 2 clutch, lighter flywheel, short shifter)
Then tell the “newbie rides” to watch out.
Basically, do like RiccyLSR said. He seems to know his shit. Props to you man!
The only real difference I’d say to what he said is to rebuild, instead of gettin’ another B18. That is, unless you can find a good B18a1 or b1 to build on in the meantime, so you don’t have too much downtime. You’ll learn alot in the process too.
I plan to do this same thing. (actually I’m in the process) The offical engine rebuild will begin next year. For now I have the bolt ons- I/H/E. It’s already a great contender to many new cars out there. After the plan is realized; my dreams of a badass, reliable daily driver w/ power & style to spare will come true. Stick to the B18 non-V man. Keep it grass roots!
:getsome: :manual:
I’d go for the B16 swap…yes it doesnt have as much tq as your B18 but it does have the VTEC yo and IMO if your plan’n on leave’n it stock then why not be able to pop some V every once in a while?
I’d go with a JDM b20 for a replacement motor.
It’s a pretty straight forward drop in motor with a little more HP/TQ than a b18 and it’s just as cheap.
Then I’d build it up from there.
Here’s a link. hmotorsonline.com
B16b:rockon: :rockon: :rockon:
[QUOTE=RiccyLSR;1689221]Basic I/H/E then
- Cams
2.cam gears
3.SAFC if u plan to tune soon - Stay away from Intake manifold if u arent planning to rev pass 7-7.5rpm coz its no use and u probably low end tq. What i would do is get the manifold u have ported to 62-64mm and get a matching TB with that and u should be set.[/QUOTE]
Gas mileage will not exactly be the best with upgraded camshafts and no VTEC.
This principle was the driving force for VTEC. VTEC engines have high lift camshafts, but have a low cam profile that is for optimum idle, gas mileage, and emissions.
IMO, the OBD1 B16A is the best swap for the money. 100% reliable, 170hp, YS1 transmission, drops right in, and all you need is the engine, transmission and ECU (and an OBD1 conversion harness).
$1700 tops.
i agree, obd1 b16a with ys1 is a sweet deal for someone who isn’t looking for crazy power. i generally do header and test pipe with a swap just to make things easier to work on, oem intake is awsome tho, i would consider a fresh timing belt and maybe itr or gsr cams before you drop the motor in since timing belt is a million times easier with the motor out.
if you feel like piecing a swap together poorman itr or gsr would be a good choice, but b16 is awsome because everything is ready to go right off the pallet, besides putting your engine harness on the motor and running the obd1 vtec conversion harness.
the b20 swap is interesting, what kind of performance changes would I see with that, regarding gas milage, acceleration, etc, if i leave the b20 stock?
b20
check around on that b20, i think another list mentioned that the trany doesnt fit verry well…not totaly sure but check
tranny dont fit?? its a DIRECT swap. only one that isnt is the old prelude b20a…the bastard child of B series! i had a b20b in my old da9 (kept it to swap in my civic with b16a tranny) and it is just like putting another b18a in, except you better keep your intake manifold (only true for b20 high rise intake manifold, false for b20z low rise). i noticed a huge difference, especially with the p8r head…i dragged against a 92 integra stock…and i was pretty far ahead!
No it’s not. You can’t use the B20 transmission. Why do you think they always sell B20s as longblocks?
[QUOTE=kNOwLedGe420;1690425]Gas mileage will not exactly be the best with upgraded camshafts and no VTEC.
[/QUOTE]
Depends on the cams really. I’ve got Crane stage 2 cams in a P&P head. These cams are designed for midrange performance and use the stock redline. My mileage didn’t drop when I put those in…still get 30+MPG. That’s without tuning too; i’m expecting to be able to pull some fuel on the tune and get a little better MPG.
I’d recommend getting something other than a B18a/b w/ just basic mods if you’re gonna go through the trouble of swapping. I’ve got a B18a with I/H/E, the crane cams, and a P&P head w/ valve job. It’s peppy and a nice daily driver, but I’m definately desiring more. I’m gonna do intake manifold and throttle body next (both stock ported). Then I’m thinking of getting a B20 block or building a high compression B18a or MAYBE even using a b16 head.
If you do go the non-v route though, I highly recommend the Crane stage 2 cams. Great power boost in the midrange, right where you need it on the street. Can safely use them on a new OEM valvetrain too…so save the cost on springs.
Good luck with whatever you do
sorry, i read wrong, i thought he said a b series tranny dont fit right on the b20 block…i didnt catch on right away he was saying b20 tranny dont fit in a da/db…my bad sorry guys, almost gave mis-information lol. i was trying to say that the b20b/z itself is a direct swap, and very easy to do. 