im in the process of working on my DA… i am debating on which route to go… i want something that will be quick… like eat up stock 5.0s and stay wit STIs… but also last for a while… not playing on running hard because this is my DD
if i go the SC route i have the JR supercharger already… my LS has a Automatic tranny… both have 142K on it but been fully serviced…running fully synthetic… i have to do a break booster delete for it to fit… also will get tuned with precision 440cc injectors… have 2.5 headers back, cai, msd ignition, walbro 255 FP
If i go the TYPE R route i have to do a swap… getting everything i need for mad cheap this guy i kno races and will give me the complete swap for 150 because he is not an import guy… then i will put bolt ons from LS on ITR… will sell JRSC and part out my 2 complete OEM LS for money for All motor build later…ITR has Been totally rebuild with OEM parts and transmission built for racing… has Stage 2 clutch
for that price BUY THE ITR. If i were you, i’d try both. You already have the JR, bolt it up and convert OBDI. Then convert you car to manual. Considering you already have a spare LS motor, why not? Bolt up the SC, install the injectors and get it tuned. Then convert to manual. Tune it again. Not much else you can do at that point beyond higher boost pulleys or cams, but that’ll kill the DD aspect of your car. If you don’t like where you are powerwise, you have the ITR to build on the side and go from there.
i got the JRSC for B18a/b B20a/z
i got it for $1000… ima have to wait a while to find a cheap one for the ITR
i like your logic… i was debating that earlier… if i go the higher boost pulleys and cams… what would you recommend? i have the 9lb pulley now with OEM cams… im just worried about the manual breaking part you know? and worse comes to worse i can always buy a rolling shell to drop the ITR in
not to kill this or anything but you mentioned this ITR came out of a Prelude? I honestly don’t think its a type R if this is in fact the car your guy got it out of. That i know of i don’t think theres a shop out there that made mounts for the b series engine to go into a prelude. I could be wrong though.
I know you trust this guy with the swap but i would be cautious in jumping into this “sweet deal”. just me though.
Ok… 1. adding a sc is going to kill your daily driver factor or at least bother you in some way later on, its alote of money, time and care that needs to go into that set up.
2. get the Itr motor with lsd and your going to have a more reliable set up for daily driven and smashing on folks. Make sure you get all itr parts for it and if you feel you need more hp’s then just add bolt ons like 68mm tb, headers, tunning and that baby will fly…
I just got my itr motor tuned and my red line is set at 9k. ( word of advise) make sure you get new axles with warrenty from autozone when doing the swap… I broke 20 day old axles after the swap… and a really good suspension set up to put the tq down.
[QUOTE=da6xsi06;2149757]Ok… 1. adding a sc is going to kill your daily driver factor or at least bother you in some way later on, its alote of money, time and care that needs to go into that set up.
2. get the Itr motor with lsd and your going to have a more reliable set up for daily driven and smashing on folks. Make sure you get all itr parts for it and if you feel you need more hp’s then just add bolt ons like 68mm tb, headers, tunning and that baby will fly…
I just got my itr motor tuned and my red line is set at 9k. ( word of advise) make sure you get new axles with warrenty from autozone when doing the swap… I broke 20 day old axles after the swap… and a really good suspension set up to put the tq down.[/QUOTE]
the end of your post makes no sense at all, you put all the money in to the swap and tune then run autozone axles? why in the world would you pull some dumb ass move like that, spend the $300 and order some from raxle.
i live in the same town as the Raxles shop. Marty is a great guy to work with. i got a little reminder sheet with mine as to when things should be inspected and serviced for optimum life. i cant talk up raxles more. when i went from vibrating, ABS sensor eating, crapzone axles to raxles, the smoothness of the ride itself was worth the 300, let alone the fact that i can run near 300whp on these axles and be fine. try actual circuit racing with autozone axles all weekend, youll be towing the car at somepoint, even with just minor bolt-ons. i think my final dead axle count was somewhere near 10 (luckily they were free replacements) when i finally went to raxles and havent had a single issue since then.
if youre building a go-fast car, driveline stuff is pretty important. honda used some pretty beefy stuff in most of their drivelines from the factory, but the CV-joint/axles were not one of those things. ever wonder why “oem replacement” axles die just as quickly as the OEM ones under hard use? replace the weak link and NEVER worry about it again.
DAmn beat me to it! you have to either notch the fire wall back 4-6 inches or run some kind of relocate or delete for the brake booster like mentioned above.
Originally Posted by da6xsi06 View Post
Ok… 1. adding a sc is going to kill your daily driver factor or at least bother you in some way later on, its alote of money, time and care that needs to go into that set up.
get the Itr motor with lsd and your going to have a more reliable set up for daily driven and smashing on folks. Make sure you get all itr parts for it and if you feel you need more hp’s then just add bolt ons like 68mm tb, headers, tunning and that baby will fly…
I just got my itr motor tuned and my red line is set at 9k. ( word of advise) make sure you get new axles with warrenty from autozone when doing the swap… I broke 20 day old axles after the swap… and a really good suspension set up to put the tq down.
the end of your post makes no sense at all, you put all the money in to the swap and tune then run autozone axles? why in the world would you pull some dumb ass move like that, spend the $300 and order some from raxle.
oh Im sorry for not spending more money than I have to over free axles, what axles did you get with your type r swap? Its a work in progress Im not done with my set up, I still need to wire up my knock sensor and add a fuel rail.
besides I really dont plan on street racing or anything like that just spirited driving is good for me…
anyways like I said before get a itr motor for a more reliable dd car, stock cast pistons dont like forced compression and wont last. Just save your self the trouble and go N/A with a type r and lsd tranny… if you happend to keep everything to obd0 then you can use a lsd cable tranny if you can find one or just get a lsd conversion kit on a b16 tranny.
the end of your post makes no sense at all, you put all the money in to the swap and tune then run autozone axles? why in the world would you pull some dumb ass move like that, spend the $300 and order some from raxle.
oh Im sorry for not spending more money than I have to over free axles, what axles did you get with your type r swap? Its a work in progress Im not done with my set up, I still need to wire up my knock sensor and add a fuel rail.
besides I really dont plan on street racing or anything like that just spirited driving is good for me…
anyways like I said before get a itr motor for a more reliable dd car, stock cast pistons dont like forced compression and wont last. Just save your self the trouble and go N/A with a type r and lsd tranny… if you happend to keep everything to obd0 then you can use a lsd cable tranny if you can find one or just get a lsd conversion kit on a b16 tranny.
i wouldnt risk popping an autozone axle out anywhere near my ITR motor, if i had one.
ive seen nasty things happen when a cv joint goes bad, ive personally had one break on the interstate just crusing, luckily it broke at the hub and not the intermediate shaft, the suspension fork kept it from doing much damage. with an open diff and one axle the car tends to pull pretty hard across the interstate at 80mph. im lucky it didnt get hung up on the road and snap a balljoint or tie-rod and really screw my day.
dont risk your safety to shitbanger axles. there are only a few things that you should not skimp on. tires, brakes, front-end steering components and drive-axles. everything else can fail and not potentially kill you.
id rather pay a little more money on quality parts now than a LOT of money later on REALLY high quality parts to repair ME when the garbage part fails.
I’m kind of in the same boat… I’m thinking out either doing a All B16 swap, GSR swap with B16 tranny, or a Type R swap with a B16 tranny. i can’t decided which is best for the money and power. i’m not going to plan on boosting or supercharging, I just want to make it a all motor beast. let me know what you guys think i’m going to have to decided quickkk!
SOmeone said the ITR puts down a lot of torque and can smash on people. LOL. That is some funny shit.
WIth the ITR swap, you will not be keeping up with STI’s and 5.0’s (at least the new 415hp versions, even then the 300lbs ft Fox bodies is doubtful A few bolt ons and those 5.0s are putting down 350 lb ft).
If you want to keep up with those cars, you need either a power adder or way more than a stock ITR with bolt ons. THrottle body, header and shit isn’t going to make your itr hang with 300-400 bhp cars that weigh less than 3500 lbs. Sorry. But sInce you already have a power adder…
Want an all motor beast? Get a K or J. 200whp out of a B = money, lotsa revs, and a serious tune. Otherwise I would go with the GSR. Just enjoy it for what it is guys. An outdated, outclassed torqueless wonder. DOn’t get me wrong, I love the B and they will be in my cars, but you have to realize that 160bhp really isn’t that much, and there is only so much you can sqeeze out of em without boost or laughing gas. I see 1.8 with all the bolt ons, a decent tune, etc and they make 160whp (without retarded inflated correction). Not going to slay giants, but will be fun.
even with a k swap witch in the end wil cost around 6k for mid 13’s when you can go ls-turbo for less then half the cost of a k-swap and run high 12’s stock with the turbo ls
let me know what you guys think i’m going to have to decided quickkk!