ok so I searched and found nothing.
I just swapped in a b18a1 from a auto car to my manual car and harness 91 car.
I installed the entire long block with auto head so it has the egr and plugs.
I hooked up the harness and fired up the engine and power wouldn’t get to the fan at full warm up.
I tested the fan directly to the battery and it works so leads me to think it has to do with the auto engine. I can’t remember where the relay is or where the switch is?
was the auto engine from a 91? if not, check the thermostat housing for the fan switch. 92+ have it there. 90-91 have it on the back of the block. ensure that the switch has been connected
relay is located on the rad support, passenger side
yeah its from a 91, I found the switch In the back of the block.
how can I test the switch?
or where can I find the relay?
Does your car have a/c? Check for voltage at the fan motor on the white wire.
If you dont have a/c itll be a yellow/black wire.
You can test for power going into the fan switch on the yellow/green wire.
As for the fan switch itself youll have to start the engine and let it warm up above 90degrees C or 194 F disconnect the connector hook up a multimeter and check for continuity.
or just jump the switch. if the fan comes on, problem is the switch
I deleted the AC so I only have a slim fan on a half civic.radiator.
how do I test the switch? do I just cross the two wires on the switch?
where is the relay located?
You can test the switch either way. Jumping the wires going to the switch will tell you if the switch is not operating, if your fan comes on. If it doesnt it could be a different problem such as the relay or even the cooling fan timer unit found on U.S. da’s. But since youve done an a/c delete thats most likely where your issue is. You dont need the timer unit, rad fan relay or condensor fan relay anymore. Make sure youve got voltage on the yellow/black wire coming from fuse 21(15A) to the rad fan relay when at IG2 position. Your going to want to find a way to connect yel/blk to the rad fan motor connector in place of the white wire. Then youll want to locate the yellow/green wire going to the rad fan relay and connect that to the other terminal for the rad fan connector in place of the blue. The yel/grn is the wire that leads to fan switch. Connect these wires by building a jumper harness or re-pinning with new terminals. Canadian vehicles are the same procedure for wiring. The radiator fan relay is located on the passengerside of the rad support near the headlight.
Say what??
"You dont need the timer unit, rad fan relay or condensor fan relay anymore. "
What do you mean he doesn’t need the rad fan relay, sure he does, he can loose the condensor fan relay, even the “Rad Fan Control Unit”, [timer unit] but I would keep it, USDM G2s have an “Engine Oil Temperature Switch” that connects to the RFCU to trigger the rad fan if engine oil temp. is up, even if ign. is off.
da6xsi06 the rad fan relay in mounted to the rad support in the engine bay, pass. side just in front of the batt.
As mentioned the black/yellow is ign. power, #85 of relay [hot when ign. switch is in the run position]
The black lead is the ground input, [#30 of relay] must have full continuity to chassis ground.
The yellow/green is the relay control, [#86 of relay] from ECT switch it is a ground when switch is closed.
The blue is the relays output, [#87 of relay] it supplies the rad fan with it’s ground, power for the fan is from fuse 12 - 15A, [hot at all times]
I would start by confirming that you have 12V+ at the rad fan, white lead.
Supply a ground to the rad fans blue led to confirm rad fan works.
If both the above are good, do as also mentioned, unplug the ECT switch, yellow/green and black 2pin plug, and jump the leads in the plug if rad fan turns on, replace the ECT switch, if not check the rad fan relay and/or it’s wiring. 94
He doesnt need the rad fan relay. This is because rather than taking the power for the rad fan from fuse no 12 (15a) it will be from fuse 21. Basically what you want to do is rebuild the factory circuit without a/c. Which does not use either of the relays according to the Canadian & U.S. schematic.
The fan timer system actually operates the condenser fan to cool the engine down for 15 mins after the oil tempetature sensor has reached above 108 degrees c or 226 f with the engine stopped.
This means the timer unit is pretty much useless without the condenser fan.
You can definately leave the rad fan relay and the extra wiring harness and it should operate normally. Im only suggesting a way to simplify your wiring system to the way honda designed for the da without a/c.
Its really as simple as this. Take # 85 yel/blk & #86 yel/grn and connect them to the rad fan motor connector to elliminate the rad fan relay.
ok I already replaced the water temp.switch and fan switch, only thing to do is check the fan relay.
is there a way I can bypass the relay?
opps im going to give it a.try to bypass the relay.
ok so I already replaced the water temp sensor, fan switch and fan relay. still no power to.the fan, I tested the fan switch see if it closes and I get full continuity/circuit closed.
I read on the book that there is a fan module under the dash next to the heater core, any one know what it looks like? or what I could be missing?
With the key on IG2 and all connectors and the fan relay installed check for voltage at the yel/grn wire to the coolant temperature switch.
Then check for voltage at the blue wire going to the rad fan relay.
Dont worry about the cooling fan timer unit as it controls the condenser fan that you said you dont have. But just so you know its an 8pin connector going into the timer unit and is located on the right side of the heater unit.
ok so I checked the volts on the coolant temp switch and it read a 10.49 volts.
then checked the blue wire on the the relay and it read 12.50 volts.
so im getting power to the coolant and relay switch and fan switch reading a low 2.47v
So that means that you have power going through the coil side of the relay to the coolant temp switch. And power up to the switch side of the relay.
Now you want to check for continuity in the ground wires. Disconnect the blk from coolant temp switch and check for continuity from that point to ground.
Then youll want to disconnect the rad fan relay and check for continuity to ground on the blk wire.
If there is no continuity you have and open wire or bad ground.
ok so you didn’t specify if the ignition needed to be at the 2 position/on.
meter reading 1.00 no continuity
& 0.00 for full continuity.
results: key on #2
water temp switch yellow/green wire.
ground source from battery (-)
meter read 1.00 no continuity
relay
battery (-) to blk relay wire
meter read 0.23 continuity
key off…
water temp switch
battery (-) to yellow/green wire
meter read 0.43 continuity.
relay
battery (-) to relay blk wire
meter read 0.00 continuity.
When doing a continuity test, the ignition key is off and you need to isolate the circuit you are going to test. Do this by removing the rad fan relay. Put a test lead on the blk wire terminal in the relay connector. The other test lead can go onto a ground such as the negative battery cable for example. As you said your reading should be 0.
For the coolant temp switch ground continuity disconnect the switch and put one test lead to the blk and the other to a body ground.
ok I tested the relay connector ground for continuity and its good so is the water temp switch also good for continuity with the ignition off.
I dont get it, im going to have to bypass the harness and do a direct setup like the non ac schimatic.
Ya test the temp switch ground continuity with ignition off. Anytime you check continuity the circuit must be isolated and should not be powered on.