Aiming to have this swap done tomorrow…still need a few questions answered.
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How do I wire up the b18a1 ECT Switch connectors to the b20b ECT switch?
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Will I get a CEL due to the missing Oil Temp sensor?
Still needing some info on this stuff.
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I’ve seen info on wiring the ECT switch on here before, but mine was OBD1 already so I didn’t need to worry about it. So, I can’t help there.
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I thought this one had been thoroughly covered. It isn’t used and won’t cause a code or anything.
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No prob, will do some more searching.
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Never got an answer to the “will it throw a code” question, only mentions of what the sensor is and how it doesn’t exist on the b20b.
Apparently the ECT switch is nothing more than an open/closed ground, meaning it doesn’t matter how the wires are connected.
New questions…
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If I decide to go obd-1 and use my socketed p28, how do I use the obd2 distributor that came with the b20b? I can find ZERO information about converting from obd-0 to obd-1 while using an obd-2 distributor, but numerous sources say its possible.
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If I do this obd-0 to obd-1 conversion…basically all I need to do is upgrade to the obd-1/2 distributor, buy the ECU conversion harness, buy a 4wire o2 sensor + harness and that’s it? Don’t have to upgrade my obd0 injectors/resistor box or anything else?
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For the 4wire o2 harness…where does the other end of the harness go? Straight to the ECU harness? Or does the ECU conversion harness have this o2 harness built in, just has to be fished through the firewall?
quick question (possibly dumb one too) but does anyone know if the b20 oil pan would be a direct fit on the b18a?
Using an obd2 §§§§§ on an obd1 wired/ecu car is as simple as getting a jumper harness from rywire
Figured it out a while ago, got a thread in the Teg Tips section about the swap.
i wouldn’t waste money on the royal purple.
also, i can’t recommend converting to obd-1, but i will tell you that my b20b doesn’t run GREAT on my obd-0 PR4. it runs alright. little choppy. no CELs.
Like I said above, I already got the swap done and over with, there’s a thread outlining the steps of the build in the Teg Tips section of the forum.
Royal Purple definitely isn’t a waste of money. It outperforms most, if not all other synthetic oils out there in real-world testing and lab-testing. Not only that, but my personal experience with it has been far superior to that of any other synthetic or conventional oil. I love tearing down a motor and finding no sludge and etc, everything looks clean enough to eat off of. The same can’t be said for the conventional-oil using motors I’ve pulled apart, and the synthetic-oil using motors that ran some of the more popular brands such as Mobil 1.
As for OBD conversion, I’d highly recommend it. A 1.8liter OBD-0 ECU is less than just sub-optimal for a 2.0liter OBD-2 motor. Not only did mine run like garbage on a PR4 ECU, it also ran like garbage on a P75. The only real solution is to convert and tune, or at least order a b20b basemap chip from phearable. By doing this I regained HP and MPG, and no longer suffered a huge power loss after 3k rpm. If you don’t convert and use an ECU meant for a different motor, you’re missing out and may even suffer issues…I had a weird fuel CEL from time to time using the PR4 ecu, but there was no actual problem.