OK, i searched the forum and found nothing. Now my problem started just a little while ago where my tach would jump around. I would accelerate then at around 3000-4000rpm it would drop down a little then go back up and drop and go back up and would do this several times (all in less than a second). I could feel no power loss or roughness or anything. It usually only happens in the morning or when the engine is cold. Its gotten worse now, now it jumps around all over the place at any rpm and only when I accelerate and it does it so much that i can even see what correct rpm it is supposed to be at cus it won’t stop moving up and down. Still no power loss or anything like that. Its hard to shift at redline when you can’t tell when it will be at redline.
My battery Light came on a while ago also…i dunno if it was before or after i started noticing the bouncing tach. But its on and my mechanic says it may be some electrical short somewhere cus there is no pattern to when it goes on or off (not like when an alternater goes bad and the light goes off at high rpms). I wonder if the problems are related.
Now the worst problem happened today, after school, in 93 degree weather, i went to start by car and it wouln’t start. It wanted to, and it almost did a couple times. A couple times it did start and rev to about 2000 rpm then die. After about 5-10 minutes i tried again and it started. I drove it to a parking lot and waited for someone for about 5 minutes and it wouldn’t start…i waited 5 more minutes and it started right up…i’m confused… help me please.
I don’t know if this is what’s causing your engine to stumble or hesitate, but when I had my old '86 200SX it did the same thing, and it turned out to be a faulty plug wire. Changed those and it was much better, but it wasn’t til I replaced the distributor cap & rotor that it was totally fixed.
As for the starting problem – that’s pretty much all I’ve seen on this board the last week or so. My car does that in hot weather as well, and a few other g2ic members have complained of that. Most have concluded that it’s probably the main fuel relay (located under the driver’s side dash), but BR pointed out that it could also be ignition coil/ignitor. If you smell gas when this happens, it’s probably the coil or ignitor. If you don’t, try just turning the key to the on position and listen for the fuel pump. If you don’t hear it prime, the relay isn’t working (or you have a REALLY quiet fuel pump ).
Thanks for the help… i dno’t have any stumbling or hesitation at all…i don’t feel any differance when driving…it just is moving all around and i can’t tell what RPM i am revving at.
Hrmm, well now I’m just guessing, but I’d say it’s either the cable or an RPM sensor? If there’s a short on the sensor somewhere (a frayed wire maybe?) it would certainly send some pretty crazy signals to the tach, and could also cause a big enough drop in voltage to put your charge light on… can someone back me up on this ? I don’t have any experience with tachs (don’t even know how they’re set up really) so like I said – just guessing, but that would make sense to me…
your problem sounds fishy. i’ve had a bouncy tach, too, before, and it was in fact a bad coil–but i had a lot of hesitation and bogging with that problem, so i can’t really say if that’s your problem for sure.
i did check teg tips beofre i postedit but thats not my problem. Can anyone back up what 90riogs said abotu the short in the wire causing the battery light to come on? I’m so confused…
your distributer might be going bad…i have the same problem, but just like cspeed, i have a ton of boggin and hesitation, it’s compleatly undriveable right now. but if the only problem you’re havin is the tach jumpin, i would check your distributer. when’s the last time you changed the cap and rotor?
I had a bouncing tach for maybe a few weeks. The car ran fine though. It later died along side the road one day. Turned out to be a be a bad coil. I’m not making any conclusions… too drunk for that right now. But that’s what happened to me.
your car not starting sounds like the charactoristics of the main fuel relay, it is under your steering colum area, when it heats up the solder connections loose contact and it will not start. next time your car does not start, turn the key to the on posotion and wait for that audiable click when the check engine light goes off, if you do not here that it is most likely the main power/fuel relay.
Integrachik: the distributor cap was replaced abouot a month ago and some other part in it was replaced at the same time.
real9999: what does the coil you are talking about do? and how much if it bad?
aobintegragsr: if the connections of the igniter are bad then there would be bogging down of some sort right?
Can you tell me how to check the solder connections on the main fuel relay, i have no clue what this looks like…thanx for the help.
And it wouldn’t start today after school again…but it was 95 degrees out…so i sat in the car with the winodws down and the air on then tried it about 3 minutes later and it started…hm.
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