thanks man…anyone at least know the kind of material the OEM gasket is made out of?
[QUOTE=charlie moua;2313898]LMAO … however you want to justify spending money pal.
Your example is a little far fetched… I’m not talking about making light bulbs, designing new oil or anything complex.
The reality is that most honda guys modifing old cars are going to be on the cheap side. They have their reason for it. More often it’s because of money, but the other reason is due to honda guys picking an choosing where they want to spend their money such as on go-fast parts and not +$40 on tail light gaskets if you can make them for $10-15 yourself. It’s nothing complex, why couldn’t it be made for cheaper, who knows it might even be better than oem.
My point is, if you want to spend essesive money on rear tail lights gasket - good for you, but don’t shake your head or think your better at someone who wont & who are open to finding alternatives.[/QUOTE]
i guess saving money to do things correctly the first time makes me crazy. oh well… :shrug:
i’ll take my +$40 gaskets and dry trunk and go else where.
soooooo…since the arguing is done…any more input on the actual product yall use?
I’m getting off work early today and am planning on working on my car. Maybe I can find a old gasket buried somewhere in my garage and I will take some measurements and try to figure out what type of material it is. I will get back to you and hopefully with positive info.
thanks bro
I looked but I don’t have a stock OEM gasket. Sorry.
guess ima have to try something to get rid of this pond creation in my trunk
By the way, it sounds like your trunk drainage holes are clogged, because even if water got it, it should be draining out. I don’t have a DB, but on the DA, the holes are around the area where the temporary wheel bolt is mounted.
I still have problems with leaks using the window foam I did back in the day. It didn’t work right. As a temporary measure, I taped up the top part of the taillights where it meets the car’s trunk. That way, the water running down the left and right side channels don’t meet the interface with the taillights and run over the tape. It doesn’t look pretty when the trunk is open, but it has successfully kept the water out.
1st…thank you for cleaning up the thread.
2nd… there a diagram of where the trunk drainage holes are located? I do, however remember seeing where water was seeping in from the bottom part of the taillights. the trunk is dry now, the place where the water would collect would be the corners right where the taillights are, although it’s not there now, because the last time water was there i dried it up and havent had water there since.
Taillights and OEM Gaskets:
Gasket Dimensions (Note the slight offset in a couple of the holes, in other words, the holes are not evenly spaced):
Part numbers on package:
The gasket is very soft, and fills the space between taillight and body very well. The new and uncompressed gasket material is about 10 mm thick, and after being on the car for a few weeks, it takes on the shape of the taillight. It tears easily when removed, so if you plan on removing the filler panel between the taillights for some rust abatement and painting, the gaskets should probably be fitted only once as a last step.
arent those 2dr tails?
[QUOTE=integra_hot;2320202]arent those 2dr tails?[/QUOTE]Yes they are for my 2 dr/hatch…
If u have a 4DR, an outline pattern can be made from a sheet of rubber (any h/w store), or even paper if you are careful and have a good eye for dimensions. The general design and material will be the same, just the outline will change. Then you can get some gasket material from a Home Depot or similar. If your car still has a few fragments of the old gasket, just match it to something similar. Its a lot of effort to replace a part that cost $20, but if no longer available, probably your only option for a lasting and OEM-like solution.
thanks man i appreciate it
silicone with your old gasket. i have no leaks for the past 3 years
What material is useable?
Clear Waterproof Silicone the outdoor kind that attaches to the caulking gun
you can buy it at homedepot for about 7 bucks
If it does the job, the silicone caulk is probably the most economical solution, and there is not much to lose by trying it.
The OEM material looks like an automotive grade Neoprene/EPDM blend, closed cell, low water absorbing material, about 3/8" or 10 mm thick. It is normally sold in sheets, rolls, or strips various sizes and thickness. At least that is what I was going to use before i found the OEM gaskets for my 2dr hatch… not saying that some similar foam rubber gasket from a HW store would not work, it just wont last quite as long as the automotive stuff… 
Don’t use ordinary silicone. Someone did this on one of my old JDM DA6 to fix the passenger floor leak. It caused massive rust
the one i had used was GE silicone II… make sure to peeloff the old gasket and do both sides and around the screw holes.
Overview
A small investment in GE Silicone II Gutter & Flashing Sealant can save you time and money. GE Silicone II provides maximum protection against leaks and water damage, with a permanent waterproof seal. Additionally, it won’t shrink, dry out or crack, and it’s permanently flexible.
3 hour Rain-Ready
Sun/Freeze Proof
Permanently Waterproof/Flexible
Won’t Shrink, Crack or Dry Out
http://www.homedepot.ca/product/ge-silicone-ii-gutter-flashing-clear-290-ml/969458