Teg Tip: Ignition Timing Check & Adjustment Revisited...

INFORMATION Integra Help
1

[u]DISCLAIMER[/u]

USE AT OWN RISK!! I will not be responsible for your actions. This is a guide, and as such, may not be 100% correct.

[u]CREDITS[/u]

Once again credits come first:

LL Cool B - For using his car as a guinea pig :wink:

N FUL FX - For allowing non-G2 owners post things like “Ignition Timing Check & Adjustment…” in his website :angel:

:up:

[u]NOTES FROM THE AUTHOR[/u]

NOTE: Because this post is too big, I have chopped it into segments.

I personally believe that the current Teg Tip submission for fiddling with the Integra’s ignition timing is well explained. However, it can be improved upon IMHO. Therefore, my version of this Teg Tip will be more of a supplement to the first.

The first Teg Tip actually shows a good example of the 3 dash marks etched on the crank pulley for timing reference - I strongly suggest that you read that, and pay close attention to the figures shown in that writeup.

In this article, I will not go into any detail regarding octane requirements, what’s good, what’s bad, etc. I will stick to only what needs to be done in order to check & adjust your ignition timing. I will actually do a full writeup on octane ratings and how it affects G2 Integras soon which I would like for everybody to share their thoughts on. I just would not like to discuss that here.

[u]INTRO[/u]

Task: Check & Adjust Ignition Timing (or Advance Ignition Timing - for the people that use the search button…hehehehehe).
Difficulty: Easy
Cars Applicable: 90-93 Integras (RS, LS, GS US & Canadian models) - more particularly, cars fitted with the B18A1 engine. It MAY apply to GS-R models fitted with the B17A and/or cars fitted with the B16A 1st Gen.
Car Used in This Guide: 1992 Integra GS 4dr. Auto w/a B18A1.

[u]Tools Required[/u]

  • 12mm box wrench
  • Jumper Wire (Paper clip will do)
  • Inductive Timing Light

When it comes to the Timing light, you don’t have to go fancy. I bought mine for $55CAN which was the cheapest available. You may opt to get ones that come with Tachometers, but since G2 Integras come with a factory Tach., you don’t really need to spend on anything more fancy.

2

cont’d

[u]STEP 1[/u]

Please do the work in an open space with adequate air flow. You may suffer from Carbon Monoxide poisoning as a consequence.

The first thing to do is to make sure that the engine is warmed up. Let the engine warm up to normal engine temperatures (radiator fan should come on at least once). Idle RPM should be at factory specs. (750RPM roughly).

Turn the engine off, and underneath the passenger-side kick panel, look for this terminal (see Fig. 1). You may have to remove the plastic kick panel in order to access it. Connect a jumper wire in the terminal to create a connection between the green/white and brown terminal (see fig. 1).

Fig. 1 - Connect Green/White And Brown Terminal using Jumper Wire.

[u]STEP 2[/u]

Open the hood. If you have not done any engine work in the past, familiarize yourself with some of the engine components that will be discussed in this guide (see fig. 2).

Hook up the Inductive timing light by connecting the positive jumper cable to the positive battery terminal, negative jumper cable to the negative battery terminal, and the inductive pickup on Spark Plug Wire #1 (see fig. 2).

Fig. 2 - Hookup Inductive Pickup on Spark Plug Wire #1.

3

cont’d

[u]STEP 3 - CHECKING IGNITION TIMING[/u]

Turn on the engine. With the engine running, turn on the timing gun and point it down the driver side where the engine pulleys are. Fig. 3a shows that you should place the timing gun on the right hand side of the engine mount. This will give your head enough space to peak down on the engine main pulley to see the timing pointer (fig. 3b).

Here is the confusing part. Unfortunately, LL Cool B and I didn’t have time to turn the engine at TDC in order to see the 3 hash marks on the main pulley (and thus couldn’t take a pic). This is where you should refer to the first Teg Tip regarding Advance Timing. That will show an excellent pictorial on where the 3 hash marks are located. I’ve quickly created an half-a$$ version of that (see fig. 3c).

The 3 ||| marks are etched on the side of the main engine pulley. So, when you point the timing light (make sure it is on of course) on the timing pointer (fig. 3b), you should be able to see these 3 hash marks close to it.

Now, the middle hash mark refers to 16 deg. BTDC which is stock. The hash mark closest to the passenger compartment is 14deg., and the hash mark closest to the headlight is 18deg. What you need to do first, is to keep note as to where your timing pointer is relative to these 3 hash marks before proceeding in adjusting your timing. REMEMBER: To look at the timing pointer directly above it, NOT on an angle. Otherwise, you will get false readings.

Fig. 3a - Where to position the timing gun.

Fig. 3b - Where is that bloody Timing Pointer?

Fig. 3c - My poor attempt to show you the 3 hash marks. The 3 ||| marks are the hash marks on the edge of the pulley.

Engine side
=====|||=======
| ALT. BELT HERE | Towards Firewall

Fender side

[u]STEP 4[/u]

If you are not satisfied with the current ignition timing of the vehicle, you can adjust it. Fig. 4a and Fig. 4b shows the 3 hold-down bolts that hold the distributor in place. Yes, the third hold-down is hard to see on the pic, but I’ve shown you the general location and it will look exactly the same as the rest of the hold-down bolts.

Before you touch these bolts, you might want to turn off the engine first just to be on the safe side (in case the wrench slips and/or falls, at least it doesn’t have a running engine to deal with;) ).

Using a 12mm box wrench, LOOSEN these 3 bolts. Do not Remove them.

Fig. 4a - The first 2 hold-down bolts

Fig. 4b - The 3rd hold-down bolt. It’s there somewhere :slight_smile:

4

cont’d

[u]STEP 5 - ADJUSTMENT[/u]

Once the 3 bolts are loose, turn the engine back on. In order to adjust the timing, you must turn the distributor. Fig. 5 shows you which way to turn the distributor in order to achieve an advance or a retard in timing.

Fig. 5 - Which way to advance or retard.

[u]STEP 6[/u]

Once you are happy with your desired timing setting, temporarily tighten the top hold-down bolt and recheck the timing (to make sure the timing is still correct). You may then proceed tightening the rest of the bolts (turn off the engine if you do not feel comfortable). Once all 3 are tightened (DO NOT OVERTORQUE), recheck the timing again and adjust if necessary.

Do not forget to remove the jumper wire underneath the passenger side kick panel. Undo the timing light and close the hood. Take the car for a spin.

[u]CONCLUSION[/u]

Yes, I did not discuss as to how far you should advance your timing, what gas to use, etc. Like I said, I will discuss that in another post because I believe that it will be a good debate topic. If the images do not show, you may visit the album at Imagestation here:

http://www.imagestation.com/album/?id=4291593117

N FUL FX - I hope you can append this to the existing Teg Tip about ignition timing. Thanks.

Any questions/comments, either post 'em here or email me at the_oz@hotmail.com Please type on the subject line, “RE: Integra Ignition Timing” or something to that effect as I get a lot of junk mail.

Regards,

Oz

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Thanks very much Oz! That was very informative. Since we all need to stick together, I will add to that the following:

When torquing the distributor mounting bolts (12mm), make sure you pay attention to the 17 lb-ft limit. If you don’t already have a torque wrench, it’s time to pick one up.

Also… when advancing or retarding your timing, it may be easier to ‘move’ the distributor by putting a thick cloth or towel over a medium sized wrench and ‘tap’ lightly in the direction your want to adjust (i.e. towards the windshield to advance or towards the headlights to retard).

I am not sure if Oz mentioned this or not, but to keep things simple is important. After you have jumped the service connector under the pass. side dash, make sure that the timing light is connected properly (you should see the ‘flashes’ show up on the check engine light on the dash.

One more in the name of simplicity… Get the nose of the gun as close to the hash marks as you can – it will make them more visible. The stock 16 deg BDC setting is the RED mark (if that helps).

Once again… thanks Oz.

You da man.

HTH

Andrew

aka neex
:smiley:

6

Originally posted by neex
You da man.
:smiley:

Actually G2Guru is DA MAN. I just happen to have a digicam with me. And I think Dan is just plain ol’ lazy to take pics of his work;)

How’s the brake work coming along, Andrew?

Regards,

Oz

7

you can mention the 90-91 physical max of 18 so you can just push it all the way i suppose

8

Originally posted by The_Oz
[B]

Actually G2Guru is DA MAN. I just happen to have a digicam with me. And I think Dan is just plain ol’ lazy to take pics of his work;)

How’s the brake work coming along, Andrew?

Regards,

Oz [/B]

Ok then… G2Guru is ‘da man’. Either way, both of you rock. lol.

About my brake project, the performance end of it will have to wait. I did manage to replumb a few lines, toss on a new master cylinder and res. (don’t do this in the dark – pretty tricky but not impossible – lol). They grab MUCH better now. If any of you are playing Russian Roulette with a messed up master cylinder, fix it now – trust me. I almost hit a few rear ends because I wasn’t fast enough with the ebrake. Yup… it’s true. I drove her for almost 2 weeks just using the ebrake… That age old saying about using what ‘you got’ simply doesn’t apply to the master cylinder… lol.

I’m still planning to upgrade the brakes in the future but right now in the midst of some serious AC work, body work, and elecrical on my gf’s 240sx, I need to hold off for a bit.

So… how’s MTL treating you my friend?? I may be down there for a visit in a little while – maybe we can go giggle over a Laurentide somewhere? lol.

Take care!

Andrew.

aka neex.

9

Originally posted by neex
[B]

Ok then… G2Guru is ‘da man’. Either way, both of you rock. lol.

About my brake project, the performance end of it will have to wait. I did manage to replumb a few lines, toss on a new master cylinder and res. (don’t do this in the dark – pretty tricky but not impossible – lol). They grab MUCH better now. If any of you are playing Russian Roulette with a messed up master cylinder, fix it now – trust me. I almost hit a few rear ends because I wasn’t fast enough with the ebrake. Yup… it’s true. I drove her for almost 2 weeks just using the ebrake… That age old saying about using what ‘you got’ simply doesn’t apply to the master cylinder… lol.

I’m still planning to upgrade the brakes in the future but right now in the midst of some serious AC work, body work, and elecrical on my gf’s 240sx, I need to hold off for a bit.

So… how’s MTL treating you my friend?? I may be down there for a visit in a little while – maybe we can go giggle over a Laurentide somewhere? lol.

Take care!

Andrew.

aka neex. [/B]

Awwww…sucks to hear that man! I think my Master Cyl. is about to go on my Mazda too, but I think I just didn’t do a good job on bleeding my brakes…anyway, back to the drawing board.

Montreal is Montreal…gotta learn the dang French. I’m missing out on a lot of things because of it. When are you coming down? I’m thinking of getting a Teg again, so we could setup a mini-meet if the bank ever cooperates with me…heheheh

Regards,

Oz