I have a 90 Acura Integra that I’m having problems with
it starting up. The engine cranks, so I could tell that the
starter is engaging, and the battery is brand new.
I live in Boston, and the weather here has just started
to get cold. During the summer my integra was having
problems staring, but only when I turned the vehicle off
and left it sitting for about an hour. If I had turned it off
right after driving, it would start right up. So that should
eliminate a bad Main Fuel Relay? I also notice when I click
the key forward, the check engine light goes on for a few
seconds, then clicks off like it suppose to.
I should also add that I replaced the Ignition coil two days
ago, because I was worried about the car not starting up
sooner or later. I am going to check for spark from
the spark plug wires, and go from there.
Does anyone think, that maybe my distributor is ****ed?
I have replaced ignition coils in honda motors before, and
I don’t believe I did anything wrong…
Please Help
I had the exact same problem, it turned out to be my main fuel relay, try having a friend listen for the fuel pump turning on when you turn on your ignition, one click before starting.
hth
if the check engine light goes off after a couple seconds the Main Fuel Relay is ok… She would stay ON is the MFR was bad.
This seems like a temp. sensor problem. I once tried to unplug my temperature sensor and the car refused to start when it was cold and started great when the engine was hot… Take a look at the temp. sensor located under the distributor, this may be your problem(take a multimeter and check what kind of resistance it has and compare to the values listed in a shop manual)
HTH!
Originally posted by Answer
[B]if the check engine light goes off after a couple seconds the Main Fuel Relay is ok… She would stay ON is the MFR was bad.
This seems like a temp. sensor problem. I once tried to unplug my temperature sensor and the car refused to start when it was cold and started great when the engine was hot… Take a look at the temp. sensor located under the distributor, this may be your problem(take a multimeter and check what kind of resistance it has and compare to the values listed in a shop manual)
HTH! [/B]
Ok,
I just went outside and it’s a lot warmer out now, so I decided
to give it another try. After 5 different attemps the engine
started up. It was blowing black smoke out the pipe like it
was running real rich. As I’m typing this out right now, I could
hear my engine idle and it’s up and down, up and down.
I know that the ECT helps bring the computer into closed loop,
and if it is faulty, the vehicle could burn too rich and run poorly.
The only time my car runs rough, is when I first start it up cold.
After I let it warm up, which is usually a LONG time the idle
drops below 1,000 rpm and it runs great.
My gas mileage has been a little off…
And it seems to be running a little bit rich. I could smell it
sometimes…
Should I replace the ECT?
well, before replacing it I would suggest you try to bypass it… If you’re into electronics, you could put the right value resistor between the 2 wires instead of connecting the plug on the ECT, you could do the hot and cold test this way…
I don’t know if the ECT is expensive or not that’s why i’m suggesting trying this before, not to replace something that is still good… Did you checked all your vacuum lines to see if they’re all ok?
Hey I was doing a search and saw that you were having
similar problem? Irregular idle… Did you replace your ECT?
It’s the one with one wire I believe…
And yes my vaccum lines are all in tact…
One other thing, is that my fan goes on ALL the damn time,
even when I just turn the key. Does your teg do that?
my fans are working OK… if they are ON all the time it’s because your have a faulty relay(sticking) or mostly the fan controller is bad… The controller is supposed to be just aside the oil filter… a two prongs sensor if I remember correctly… you should try to unplug it too see if your fans are stopping, if they do indeed stop when unplugged, there is your problem! The controller also controls the ECU cause I remember one member said he replaced the controller and all his hesitation and bad idle problems were solved!
BTW, I said controller in this post because I don’t remember the exact name… It’s ECT or CTS.
Answer,
I replaced my ECT, and my car is responding to the new one
very well. However it still seems as if my car starts up rather
rough… only when it’s cold out. How many cold cranking amps
is our batteries suppose to have? Also, when the car firsr starts
up, the engine idles up and down, up and down still but then
goes away when fully warmed up. Does your engine still do
this?
Glad you got a part of the problems cured! The sensor you replaced was the one near the oil filter or the one under the distributor?
The bouncing idle is something I never experienced… This could be caused by a bad IACV or vacuum leak or something else…
Since I replaced my catalytic converter, the car is much better… but still not 100% perfect… I’m suspecting my fuel filter…
I replaced the one under the distributor, and my car
has been starting right up. I just bought a bosch o2 sensor, and guess what… I’m expreiencing that common problem where the
damn old one won’t budge. I’ll get it though, with my snap-on
ratchet (long handle) tommorow. I’m hoping that a new o2 sensor
will help me out…
A new O2 sensor is surely gonna help!
Be gentle when removing the old one… I had problems removing mine and ended up removing the threads with the sensor which left a nice hole in the exhaust manifold… I had to replace it so I bought a header!
HTH!