[QUOTE=onefastls2;2167631]evap canister? i think its called…i eliminated mine to cause i have no emissions…car is turning out real nice…
BLKACK: i think he sed it had real low compression…[/QUOTE]
Yes, 1 & 4 were 125psi and 2 & 3 were 150psi. Not as low as I thought it was, but I did the compression test wrong the first couple times. Forgot to hit the gas, haha.
I’m pretty sure it’s called a charcoal canister, but I may be wrong. I’m deleting it anyways so I don’t really care haha
Well a good bit accomplished today. Lets see if I can remember it all.
The other day we pushed the car out back and washed it.
Then today we took the tranny off and cleaned it.
We also painted my IM and exhaust black. IM is wrinkle like the VC and exhaust is flat black.
Also painted the cross members, the battery tray bracket, and other various parts.
That wasn’t actually all of it, I was just in a hurry to post that because I was leaving. We also re-loomed the wiring harness, went to pull-a-part and got a new piece for the tranny (I forgot what it’s called, it’s for the speedometer), and some other things, but I honestly forgot what they were. Motor is going to be in on Monday!
u aint doin the 5spd conversion now?
No, I cant find one around here, so I have to wait. Plus I need my car to go to school. Ill do it later down the road when I find a job, so far no luck with that though :argh:
what do u need for it? i have a fresh b17 tranny i just had redone. have linkage pedals and some other things too if and wen u need it
I really just don’t have the time or money for it. I want to do it, but I’m not the one paying for it at first most of the time. My dad usually buys it, and I pay him back. And right now I can’t get a job until my car is done. Back in the vicious circle once again. Plus we are going to Costa Rica this summer for Christmas and new years. I have lots of family there so we want to take the chance to do something we may never have a chance for again. But I will definitely do the swap eventually, it just may not be this year like I planned :down:
I’m really having trouble remembering all the little things we do throughout the day, haha. We started re-looming a lot more of the harness, we semi-tucked a lot of my HID and headlight wiring harnesses, painted the tranny, starter, battery tray, and the top of the radiator because the paint came off when we pressure washed it one time.
Alright well the flywheel came off easy.
While I was at school my dad went and picked up the motor. He took off the IM, header, fuel rail, injectors, the wiring that was one there, the §§§§§, and whatever else wasn’t needed.
When I got home we started putting some of the stuff back on the motor. Header probably isn’t going to stay on when we drop the motor back in, I just wanted to see what it looked like on the motor.
Plug missing?
Couple more pics. Moved the motor off the trailer and next to the car.
If you guys see anything you want to buy, feel free to ask. I have an OBD1 §§§§§, alternator, header with heat shield, power steering pump, and maybe something else, I’ll have to look. I’m pretty sure the IM is pretty useless.
That missing plug is explained here
http://forums.g2ic.com/showthread.php?203192-Early-model-low-comp-b20b-in-to-90-91.
The only real modifications needed are…
-Extend ECT switch wiring
-Extend MAP sensor wiring
-Delete Oil Temperature sensor wiring.
Some details on the above mods…
ECT Switch wiring. On the 1990-1991 b18a1, the ECT switch is on the back of the motor, is huge and ugly, and has a two-prong style connector. On the 1996-1997 jdm b20b the ECT switch is on the thermostat housing and has a plug-style connector. Not only will the ECT switch wiring in your b18a1 engine harness not reach the new ECT switch location, it wont even plug in to the ECT switch. What you need to do is either extend that wiring, or cut a slit in the harness up to the thermostat, pull the ECT switch wiring towards the thermostat wiring, remove excess wiring and re-tape the harness. Either route you take, you’ll need to cut the two-prong style connectors off of the harness and replace with a two-contact plug…something you’d use for an oil pressure switch or something, easy to find online for cheap.
MAP sensor wiring. On the 1990-1991 b18a1, the MAP sensor is on the firewall by the vacuum pots and master cylinder. On the 1996-1997 jdm b20b the MAP sensor is on the throttle body. The MAP sensor wiring needs to be extended to the new location, super easy to do…just remember to be smart when you make that cut and don’t short yourself on wiring on the plug-end of the harness. You’ll obviously need some wire to extend this, color doesn’t matter as long as you properly match it all up. Electrical tape or solder, up to you. I highly recommend buying new harness loom to tidy up this extension, exposed wires are no fun.
[SIZE=“2”]3. Oil temperature switch wiring.[/SIZE] The b18a1 has the switch, the b20b does not. It’s up to you if you want an un-used connector hanging around behind your motor, I didn’t so I cut what was hanging out of the harness, taped the end to avoid shorting on anything(if this is even a possibility, better safe than sorry I say), then hid it in the harness before re-taping it.
What’s the difference between the crank pulleys? And what is a crank key? Haha, sorry I’m clueless to some of the stuff on the motor. Also, what’s the difference between the b20 injectors and the b18 injectors
some crank pulleys are smaller and or bigger than others, a crank Key is what locks the Pulley to the Crankshaft so they spin together its the little rectangular piece that slides inbetween the pulley and crank
Looking good man, gonna look great in the bay
Alright, thanks Stevo!
Alright well we dropped the motor in today. Didn’t really hook anything else up, just dropped it in. Alternator and one or two other things are going in tomorrow. Here’s a couple pics! You can’t really see the clean block now, but then again I’m in the garage so the lighting kinda sucks.
looks clean!
Thanks man! Still have to drop the rad in though, so it’ll get a little more cluttered in the front
Thanks Black, haha.
Well she’s all back together and running! Sort of…
Still having some of the same idling problems I was before. Like a lumpy idle, and when I put it in drive and hit the gas it sounds like it’s skipping (piston’s not firing). Replacing the igniter in the distributor tomorrow to see if that fixes it. Is it the same as the one that was on my 96-98 spec B20B? Does the OBD difference change anything? Anyways, here are a couple pics!
Here’s an engine bay before and after just to see the awesome difference. I’m taking this one from the very beginning, haha.
Still have to get a new hose from the VC to the intake, and get that thing on the fuel rail in a different color. Probably doing the header in the wrap stuff because we got some from a friend.
check the way you ran your vacume lines, i had the same problem once i swapped the motor into my DB1 turns out i routed the Map sensor wrong and another hose mixed up luckily on the oem hood there was a diagram saved me a huge headache lol check it out and see if thats it