I put in a Tenzo Turismo steering wheel, but I have no idea how to hook up the horn. I have the MOMO hub too.
the easy way to do things is not to buy anything from tenzo. it is a 2 bit hack company who cant design products of thier own so they steal the designs from quality manufactures and pawn them off as thier own low quality bull crap that just cheapens the value and exclusiveness of buying true high quality parts. tenzo products are a disgrace to the tuner market. i have no respect for anyone who wastes thier hard earned money on tenzos worthless and pathitic excuse for tuner parts. so the awnser is no your horn will never work and your steering wheel will probably break in half while you lose to a V6 mustang automatic with altezza tails, fake HIDs, and apc stickers all over it. here is how you fix the problem. take out the tenzo and your fake momo hub and save your allowance for a real steering wheel, then post here when you have a question that doesnt involve a company that drains the life out of every true Honda enthusiast.
Not every one can afford the real deal, a thing to remember. Tenzo’s stuff isn’t that bad, alot better than some of the real junk out there. I have no problem with their stuff.
As for the horn, not sure but there is always a way!
Now that you have successfully enlarged your penis with that demeaning and informative post, do you feel better? Your post comes as huge news to me, for nobody has told me of the design and quality flaws with Tenzo products. So next time I am out racing automatic Civic HX’s I will also inform them of the mistakes they have made by purchasing Tenzo products. You are a model citizen by taking so much time out of your busy day to reply to my sorry excuse for a problem, and i thank you for your information. I hope the g2ic board members follow your example of pompousity, because this board would be a better place.
Now, does anyone have any usefull information? I know there are various posts about the horn kit for MOMO wheels, but the Tenzo is a little different.
Originally posted by mugenb18
the easy way to do things is not to buy anything from tenzo. it is a 2 bit hack company who cant design products of thier own so they steal the designs from quality manufactures and pawn them off as thier own low quality bull crap that just cheapens the value and exclusiveness of buying true high quality parts. tenzo products are a disgrace to the tuner market. i have no respect for anyone who wastes thier hard earned money on tenzos worthless and pathitic excuse for tuner parts.
funny, and yet seeing the word “dc” in your sig, you probably don’t realize how crappy and poorly design their strut bars are. maybe you have yet to realize that a bar with 6 big holes cut in it aren’t gonna help out with strengthing the chasis.
true high quality parts? so your gonna tell me that spending a hard earned $150 on a dc sports struct bar is worth it because its a dc sports? i guess a true quality product is one with 6 big holes in it huh? then you should add dc to your list of disgrace with their strut bars.
i wonder why type-r’s strut tower braces don’t have holes in them…
not every “high quality brand name” has performance in mind, some have appearance only.
anyways, now back to the post because i rather be helpful then criticized people for what products they purchase and the brand they choose because its not mugen or tein or veilside or whatever.
hey scott is it possible for you to take a good close up picture of the back of the horn? that way we can see how the connections look like and possibably give more detailed feedback.
who said anthing about a strut bar faggot
anyways im just messing around but i really dont like when people support the theft of design and ideas. for a company it shows a complete lack of integrity. to me its like buying fake oakleys at a gas station. sorry if this made you mad or offended you. dc happens to be the proven best header for non-vtec B18s. if there were a better made/ performing header i would have that on my car. have you ever seen that strut bar made by anyone else-no because it was designed and engineered by dc.
Originally posted by mugenb18
who said anthing about a strut bar faggot
comments like this will get you banned.
and about the strut bars, i was using that as an example of a high quality company making products that don’t function as well it should.
and no one has copied their design because a strut bar with holes in it isn’t strong and rigid enough.
i see your point. but can you see mine? i can admit when i have made a mistake, and i did, sorry. i shouldnt have flown off the handle like that. but i should write a letter to tenzo.:bawl:
here’s some pics of my wheel install.
i have a tenzo R intake on my teg!! and have never had any problems with it!! and about that steering wheel it looks hott!! was it cheaper than the momo ones!! if so how much??
I think I paid 170 for it (I know, I coulda got it cheaper). I absolutely love that wheel though, its so comfortable. How did you hook up the horn? The 3 pieces on my seat next to the momo box are the stuff I didn’t use. I just connected the black wire from the momo hub to the little connector on the back of the wheel.
you get that wheel at vtr?
Originally posted by chsscott
[B]here’s some pics of my wheel install.
[/B]
Man, that looks SO sweet! BTW, where did U re-locate you cruise control switches? Or, did U just eliminate them?
phiber0ptiK - yeah i got it at VTR
kalteg90 - thanks for the comments and no, i didn’t touch the cruise control because i never use it anyway.
Anybody have a solution to my problem?
I actually have a horn just like that, it took me 3 hours to figure out a way to hook it up. Im not sure how the pros do it, but I had run wire down the enire steering colum, ground and power, to the stock wires under the dash, I just cut the wires and connected the new ones up and run them to the steering wheel, this is a very ghetto way but i had to do a saftey and did this last minute. On your horn now you should have 2 L shaped teminals, just run a thin guage speaker wire down the whole in the hub and thru the steering colum and intecept the original wires. then find out which of the L shaped terminals is ground and power. This tokk me like 3 tries to get it right, and you have to leave alot of extra wire at the horn end to compensate for turning. The original way the horn is was a plate that rotated with the steering wheel and the other piece blow it had power and ground together but not touching, when you press the horn it gave the power and ground contact. I have not figured out a way yet to get away from the ghetto way ive done it, i have also asked custom shops down here and they said it could not be done, I proved them wrong. Its all trial and error, sorry for the really long post and the mix and match, im tired, if you have any questions just email me seansean10@hotmail.com