The bass intermittently goes out.

ASSISTANCE Electrical & Entertainment Systems
21

[QUOTE=fcm;2109199]Your amp gain, [INPUT SENSITIVIT (V)] is well below 50% and not your problem.

You need to switch the “Operation” switch from stereo to L+R.

Disconnect the “P.CON(REMOTE)”, blue lead/terminal and use a jumper from “POWER IN BATT” to "P.CON(REMOTE) to turn amp on, DO NOT leave connected, if amp still cuts out, amp control is not your problem.

I am concerned about the gauge of the power and ground leads, [10ga or less] it is a long way from the front of the car to the amp and “lack of” current may be the issue. 94[/QUOTE]

Left the INPUT SENSITIVIT as is.

Already switched to L+R.

bypassed the remote control and drove it for a week or two. There was a slight bass loss intermittenly. Meaning, slight bass loss happened twice out of the two weeks of bypassing the remote. The rest of the time, the system sounded great.

I went to trace the power and ground cables for any shorts only to find that the ground cable itself was very long coiled up in zip ties. The distance between the amp to the ground point is just 1.5 feet. But that cable was long. Should I shorten the ground cable or leave as is?

As I followed the the power and remote cables I noticed about three to four cable clamps scattered across the cables all the way to the HU. The clamps look similiar to the first pix. The two yellow ones top right from the amp. What were they doing? And I found a break or exposed copper on the power and remote wires smashed on the door floor panel. The routing was horrible. Will electrical tape fix the expose wire?

So my intermittent bass loss issue is still there. As you requested, I plan on changing out and reroute the power, ground, and remote wires when I have free time. And to change it to 8 ga wires.

22

Are you saying there are more butt connectors, [in-line crip connector] along the power lead?

If so, the installer used scrap pieces of power wire and connected enough of them together to reach the amp, PP install!!!

Yes, you need to shorten the ground, amp grounds should be kept as short as possible.94

23

[QUOTE=fcm;2113153]Are you saying there are more butt connectors, [in-line crip connector] along the power lead?

If so, the installer used scrap pieces of power wire and connected enough of them together to reach the amp, PP install!!!

Yes, you need to shorten the ground, amp grounds should be kept as short as possible.94[/QUOTE]

Clarification: I found only one “butt connector” on the power lead. Found that under the rear seat. The remote lead had three butt connectors. All these connectors look and feel pretty secure.

Can you help me narrow this down so I don’t have to perform work on ALL of these? Thanks.
Which one of these could be the culprit on my intermittent bass loss?

  1. Too long of ground cable?

  2. The butt connectors?

  3. A smashed power and remote leads? The copper is showing. Will electrical tape fix this? I already wrapped it. Or do I need to replace the cable?

I bypassed the remote and I’m still getting intermittent power on amp.

24

Fcm?

25

Fine. I’ll perform all the things that you mentioned earlier. But I’ll do it one at a time. So far we ruled out the remote. Off to replacing that long ground wire.

26

You can’t rule out any of them as the problem, except the amps control lead.

You “bypassed” the control lead and still had the problem, the short in the control lead would damage the HU, [amp control output] not the amp, if it still works, there is no damage to the HU.

Some tape will “fix” the damaged control lead but it should be replaced, it should be one lead all the way from HU to the amp.

The same goes for the amps power lead, even more so, connections have resistance, resistance causes heat, the more current that is passed through the resistance the more heat is produced, the connection oxidizes and results in more resistance, more resistance = more heat and so on and so on.

Even though connections “feel” tight, the resistance can still be very high, an amp that does not get the current it needs will shut down, it will start at high volume levels at first and get progressively worse, shutting down at lower and lower volume levels, eventually.

As long as the ground is good it is unlikely to be your problem but the connection in the ground could be a problem.
There are actually 3 different connection points at the ground and power leads, the crimp on each terminal then the terminal connection point, add 2 more on the power lead under the seat, lots of resistance points.

You need to eliminate the connection problems, up the power and ground to 8ga, this should be done even if it turns out not to be problem, this time.

Once the power and grounds are good you can eliminate them as the possible problem, until then they will stay the most likely issue. 94

27

sounds to me its ur wires. your positive and negative wires should be at least 8 gauge wires, not 10. Maybe its because u have crimped wires too, ur not getting the most out of ur amp using small wires, also ur wires should be straight, meaning no crimp to crimp wires.

28

Thanks guys for your help especially FCM. I’ll re-wire the pos and neg leads to 8 gauge spec when I get a chance. What gauge size should be the remote control lead?

One more thing, in this pic there is a black fuse holder with a fuse in it for the power lead (positive red wire). Wll this be needed for my guage upgrade? If I’m going to install a 8 guage wire, what fuse number should it be?

29

The amp control lead is low current so 16ga max - 22ga min.

Yes you will need a fuse and holder, [within 18" of batt.] I would recommend an ANL fuse and holder, [nut and bolt type fuse holder]. 94

30

What should be the amprege on the fuse? Did I say that right? I mean the correct fuse number for the 8 gauge upgrade?

Where can I get this “nut and bolt” holder thing? Ya got a pic of it?

31

Also, whats the reason of the “18 inch rule”? Thanks.

32

Disregard the last two questions. I googled the info “caraudiohelp.com” .

But I hope someone can help me answer this question. For the in-line fuse holder near the battery… which fuse should I set it to?

My guess is 25a ANL fuse. There is a little ANL fuse externally on the amp itself which is 25a. Should the in-line fuse holder hold a 25a as well? Mine you this is for an 8 guage power wire. 350 watt amp. model number Kenwood KAC-629S

Can someone help me verify this? thanks.

33

I had a problem with this before my problem was i had to powerful of a sub and the amp was getting to hot and it shuts down its a safety thing so it doesnt start on fire. Its not bad just need a higher capacity amp. Like if you have an 800 watt sub its putting out 400 watts of rms. so you need an amp with the same or more power. I have a 1000 watt kenwood hooked up with my 800 watt alpine type s sub. Hits really hard and its only a 10". Just try a bigger amp im almost certain thats your problem. But then i just read the title cause there was so much typed in this thread. Just my thought peacde and good luck if it isnt that

34

when you plan to upgrade to 8 guage, u should buy this kit. the wires are pre set for you, comes with speaker wires, FUSE, negative and positive wires, remote wire etc. i have something similar to this, also this is the most common kit that people buy when doing self installation.

http://www.bestbuy.com/site/Rockford+Fosgate±+8-Gauge+Amplifier+Power+Installation+Kit/8286892.p?id=1172276905149&skuId=8286892

35

I appreciate your help and responses but my question wasn’t answered about the fuse size. No worries, I got my answer elsewhere. I bought the monster cable set for 39.99. Looks attractive too.

But if anyone else can be so kind to answer this question, do they sell 8 gauge wire strippers and crimpers or 8 gauge connectors? The set came with connectors but what if I needed more just in case I failed on crimping one.

I went to radio shack, frys electronics, walmart, kragen, autozone, Home depot! None of them carried strippers or crimpers or even 8 gauge wire!? Just the basic 12 to 10 gauge standard connectors or wire strippers.

I guess I might not be looking hard enough heh? I had to use a razor blade! I’m going to solder the connectors not crimp them though.

Thanks.

36

[QUOTE=91akira;2117483] I had to use a razor blade! I’m going to solder the connectors not crimp them though. [/QUOTE] Soldering the terminals to the cable is the proper way anyway.

The fuse that is on the power cable, [within 18" of batt.] is there to protect the power cable, not the amp, so fuse should “match” the cable, your kit should have come with a 100A fuse.

If you need more terminals find your local Pico dealer. 94

37

[QUOTE=fcm;2117625]Soldering the terminals to the cable is the proper way anyway.

The fuse that is on the power cable, [within 18" of batt.] is there to protect the power cable, not the amp, so fuse should “match” the cable, your kit should have come with a 100A fuse.

If you need more terminals find your local Pico dealer. 94[/QUOTE]

Actually it came with a 40a fuse. ANL.

Pico dealer? Wow why didn’t anyone tell me that it won’t be convienant to get supplies when you use 8 gauge wire? :argh:

Its all good.

38

That 40 amp fuse is fine the way i always found what size fuse to use was to add up the fuse amperage amount on all the components the power cable was feeding to. So as example if i had a amp that had 2 40 amp fuses and a crossover that had a 10 amp i would add the amperage amounts together 40 +40 +10=90 so technically you wouldn’t want to use anything above 90 to 100 amp fuse rating.All this is assuming you have the correct power cable gauge.:rockon:

39

The 40A ANL will be fine.
You should also be able to get 8ga ring/split spade terminals at your local car audio shop, they will be PMR gold plated ones, they will be cheap quality and overpriced, not enough gold on them to short circuit the dynamo on a fireflies ass.

For online sales you can try … http://www.installer.com/hardware/index.php
They will have terminals. 94

40

[QUOTE=91akira;2109080]

[/QUOTE]

FCM- On the “filter switch” side. The picture shows it on the right side.

HPF (high pass filter)
LPF (low pass filter)
OFF postition

Which should the right setting be? Below I copied and paste the manual

FILTER switch
These switches allow filtering of the speaker
output signals.
• HPF (High Pass Filter) position (KAC-
629S only)
Only frequencies of 150 Hz or higher are output.
(Frequencies below 150 Hz are cut.)
• LPF (Low Pass Filter) position
Only frequencies of 80 Hz or lower are output.
(Frequencies above 80 Hz are cut.)
The Lch and Rch will be mixed before output
even if the operation switch is set to STEREO.
• OFF position
The original sound without filtering is output.

My model is KAC-629S Bridged mode.