I have a mild sound system the car that was installed by frys electronics. When I have the volume at a mid level enough to hear clean bass, there are times when it would not be there. As if someone is lowering the bass level to zero. It comes back when it wants to.
Things I did:
Swapped head units same brand name. Same results
KDC-716s Kenwood
KDC-??? Kenwood New
Swapped Amplifyers. Same results.
Kenwood 350w
2 kenwood 150w new
Check Amp ground to chassy. Its secured and tight.
same results
FCM- you there? Or anybody who knows this stuff. I don’t know skwaat.
The next thing I would check is the amp control, use a jumper wire to connect the amps power lead and the amps control lead, leave in place for a drive to see if bass still cuts out.
If it does check for shorts on the speaker lead running to the sub. 94
sounds like your making the amp clip, does it happen on deep bass notes when it cuts out or just cuts out whenever, if its when the bass hits, you need to turn down the bass boost and gain, because the amp cant handle it, other than that it’s probably a bad ground
Cuts out when the bass volume is up high. Still intermentantly. Here is a pic of that volume control. Which should I set it to?
Also notice the ground stud on that pic. There nothing there BUT on the other side of amp, you have a ground connection terminal. That one is hooked up. Going to the chassy and is tight and secured. Does this empty ground stud need to be grounded?
you do not need to ground that out that stud is if you had a ground wire running with your RCA cables to filter unwanted noise out of the audio signal.:rockon:
I’m trying to use jumper wires (FCMs instructions) to bypass the exsisting old ones already on the amp. Question is… for the remote wire, does that go to the HU?
How do I go about in bypassing the remote wire?
or do I make any sense at all? Do I make you crazy?
Your amp gain, [INPUT SENSITIVIT (V)] is well below 50% and not your problem.
You need to switch the “Operation” switch from stereo to L+R.
Disconnect the “P.CON(REMOTE)”, blue lead/terminal and use a jumper from “POWER IN BATT” to "P.CON(REMOTE) to turn amp on, DO NOT leave connected, if amp still cuts out, amp control is not your problem.
I am concerned about the gauge of the power and ground leads, [10ga or less] it is a long way from the front of the car to the amp and “lack of” current may be the issue. 94
[QUOTE=fcm;2109199]Your amp gain, [INPUT SENSITIVIT (V)] is well below 50% and not your problem.
You need to switch the “Operation” switch from stereo to L+R.
Disconnect the “P.CON(REMOTE)”, blue lead/terminal and use a jumper from “POWER IN BATT” to "P.CON(REMOTE) to turn amp on, DO NOT leave connected, if amp still cuts out, amp control is not your problem.
I am concerned about the gauge of the power and ground leads, [10ga or less] it is a long way from the front of the car to the amp and “lack of” current may be the issue. 94[/QUOTE]
Will switch to “operation”.
I’m confused…You say “DO NOT leave connected” Do you mean don’t leave the jumper wire connected? You posted earlier to leave it on for a drive.
Are you talking about the red and black cables? So do these cables need to be thicker you say? 10ga? What gauge is that now?
BTW- the ground lead is grounded about a foot and half from the amp.
What kind f speaker are you pushing?
8"? 10"? 12"?
Although idealy you’d want to run your amp bridged( since it looks like you only pushing one speaker anyways) your amp may not be able to push the sub your running, since your amp is only a 350. which means even at rms, your amp is overworked and will turn itself off instead of burning out…
Try running your amp with the sub hooked up to either the left or the right side only. This will let you ajust the Imput sensitivity more and bass boost from your headunit…
Don’t quote me on this. I am in know way an expert. Bit try it out and let us know.
I’m confused…You say “DO NOT leave connected” Do you mean don’t leave the jumper wire connected? You posted earlier to leave it on for a drive.
Once you have done the test, remove the jumper or the amp will stay on, even when HU and IGN. are turned off.
Are you talking about the red and black cables? So do these cables need to be thicker you say? 10ga? What gauge is that now?
Yes the red and black power and ground cables, [wire] It is hard to tell what gauge they are but the yellow connectors are for 12 - 10 gauge wire, a sub amps need a lot of current, the gauge of cable will depend on amps RMS wattage, [150W RMS into 4 ohms] and distance amp is from the power source, [length of cable].
I would not use anything smaller then an 8ga cable for that amp and where it is mounted.
The crimp on, quick disconnect terminals on the power lead(s) below the amp should also be eliminated.
BTW- the ground lead is grounded about a foot and half from the amp.
Amp grounds should always be as short as practically possible, [1.5 ft is not bad] and the ground point should be the cars floor pan, any bolt or stud into/on the floor pan is good, dirt/paint should be removed all the way to bare metal.
One more thing about wiring, the terminals should be soldered to the power cables, not just crimped.
A question…
What is the make and model of the sub(s) and how many? 94
[QUOTE=fcm;2109474]Switch the operation switch to L+R from stereo.
One more thing about wiring, the terminals should be soldered to the power cables, not just crimped.
A question…
What is the make and model of the sub(s) and how many? 94[/QUOTE]
Okay I’m going to try your first two steps first before I go further into changing out the wires to bigger guages. And eliminating the quick disconnects and also soldering the connectors on instead of being screwed in. (can you tell me why thats important?)
I switched to L+R already. I’m going to jump the power lead to the remote when I drive it on monday.
I have ONE ten inch only. Rockford Fosgate punch z with a big magnet.
[QUOTE=fcm;2109545]A crimped connection, “screwed in” will oxidize over time, soldering will prevent oxygen from getting to the connection so it can not oxidize.
Is it a RFZ3410 or the RFZ 3810, [R/F sub]? 94[/QUOTE]
understood. Now do I solder the wire to the connector? Or do I solder the connector to the amps terminal?
Rats, the speaker is attached to the boom box obvisously. Not sure if that info is in the back of the speaker. I can look for the manual somewhere.
Solder terminals to the power and ground cables, use the screws to connect cable terminals to the amp.
Not sure if that info is in the back of the speaker.
What I need to know is if it is a SVC, [single voice coil] or DVC, [dual voice coil] sub, if it is a SVC then it is not an issue as it will be no lower then a 4 ohm load to the amp, [a DVC 4 ohm wired in parallel is a 2 ohm load and the amp is not stable to 2 ohms when bridged and it would cut out at high volume. 94
Okay I found out that the gauge size for the power lead is 10 gauge. And the ground begins with a 10 gauge at the terminal then becomes a smaller gauge at the “quick disconnect” side to the car chassy. Does the ground need to be the same gauge all the way through?
I couldn’t find the manual for the speaker. Would a snap shot of the front speaker help determine the info?
Also, regards to switching from “stereo” to L+R, the whole sound system seems a bit muffled. Not clear, as if its on Mono. Non stereo sound if you will.
The greound needs to be the same gauge all the way through and it needs to be the same gauge or thicker then the power lead, I would go with 8ga for both. as mentioned, get rid of the quick disconnects.
A pix of the sub will not help, if you have or can borrow a multimeter, use it to see what the impedance is at the speaker lead connections at the amp, disconnect at least one of them so your not measuring the amps output.
The Operation switch selects the signal input to the amp, it should have no effect on anything but the sub.
Because you have the amp bridged into mono for sub bass the amp must see both the left and right signal so both the left and right RCAs must be plugged in and the left and right signals must be mixed/summed together, L+R is the correct setting, stereo will work but the signal is not mixed until the output stage, better if it is mixed in the input stage.
The MONO (L ch) is only used if you had two of the amps, and only the left RCA input is used on both amps. 94
