what about the lines and all??
is this true?
what happens if i dont take out the springs? Is there away I can take out the wrong parts? pics of were the springs are to take out
Hey guys I just got done looping my lines last weekend, so far no problems.
As you can see, I just left the two lines going to the speed sensor alone, on the one line from the speed sensor that Ts into one of the return lines, I just got rid of the T and connected the 2 ends together, I then removed the power and return lines (and the whole cooler setup in the bumper), so what’s left is the power and return lines looped together with that filter on it.
There was a puddle under the car for the first few days as excess fluid drained out of the system but everything is fine now. It sits safely against the underside of the car and doesn’t hit the ground or anything.
Turning at low speed is pretty difficult, I haven’t taken apart the valvebody yet. Should I loop the vss at the sensor? Or is having it open like this going to cause problems?
Ok I have been reading through threads about this for the last hour. I have a few questions I can’t seem to find answers for.
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Why can’t you just use the VSS off of the civic you pull the manual rack from?(if that’s the direction I decide to go?) And if you can’t use it, how do I go about filling up the VSS already on my DA?(those lines are tiny)
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When you take the two springs out of valve body and loop the lines. How much fluid do you need to leave in there?
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If i use the manual rack…I just use DA inner and outer tie rods correct?
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Do I have to use the civic sub-frame or will the DA one work?
Thanks for any help.
You want to loop the lines for the VSS together and fill it with PS Fluid or Oil… It doesn’t take much at all to fill the VSS, but it keeps the insides lubricated.
As for using the non-PS VSS from another b-series… I actually just did this on my swap. I’ve yet to drive the car yet, but the only ‘problem’ that I ran into is that the speedometer cable seems a tad-bit short… the non-ps vss is smaller, the PS VSS is taller… so the cable may indeed be too short to run the non-PS version.
edit
I just looped the lines on the rack to each other, and put a T-fitting for a breather. Not the cleanest solution, but it doesnt leak so, it works for me.
Are the Civic hx and the CRX hx racks the same? I am all confused about the 2 racks now lol? I wanna put in a CRX hx rack if it fits.
how are you guys filling and refilling your ps valve body??
O.k. everyone I need your aid here. My friend has a 92 GS-R and she wants to keep power steering because she a lazy ass and doesn’t like the effort of none power steering. Now how close to the feel of power steering at a dead stop can I get with all these methods you are mentioning. See I have owned my DB1 Integra for 5 years with all my power steering stuff ripped out. I didn’t loop my lines, I didn’t take apart the valve body, I just took everything off and let it ride. Now yes it has that extra effort but after 5 years I don’t even notice. The whole reason I want to convince her to eliminate it is because she can’t afford a new power steering pump which she needs and even if we fix it who is to say then a line wont brake or the pump go bad again. I just hate having to keep fixing shit if there is an alternative. SO just to get my point across can the power steering system be eliminated and if I loop the lines and remove the valve body stuff it still feel like she has power steering?
It is not the same as having PS. I have been running my DA for 2 years with no power steering without doing the whole conversion, same as you. I have let a 5’ 1" friend of mine drive my car a few times, and she loves it. I just converted my dads rack to manual doing the whole looping method, and it feels exponentially better than my DA. I am in the process of doing mine now. I hope that helps.
Here’s a link to team integra jack of this. Has the pics, plus a valve body overhaul:
http://www.team-integra.net/forum/display_topic_threads.asp?ForumID=8&TopicID=200109&PagePosition=0&ThreadPage=1
Could somebody tell me the function of this breather on the T fitting? It doesn’t seem to me that the p/s system needs to breath for any reason.
i have a manual rack out of a crx hf and it works fine
Anyone have the pics, or if anyone is going to do the EF swap please take pics… I’m tinking of buying the rack off of ebay.
Which is the best stock rack? Si civic, CRX, or HF?
Thanks. (BTW I just read al 14 pages and didn’t find an answer to satisify me)
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Few questions…I have read this thread over and over again.
I understand how a breather can help purge air/pressure from within the valve body…
So wouldn’t running a longer hose from a t-fitting on the looped lines up to the engine bay prevent any leaking and still do its job? How many of you said F the breather?
Also…once you take the right stuff out of the valve body…I’m assuming all PS fluid gets drained out during this process. How do you re-fill the valve body? Do I just fill the looped hoses and whatever fluid fits…fits? Or do I not even worry about re-filling? I’d like to get all old shitty auto zone PS fluid out and fill whatever I can with OEM Honda PS fluid…
THANKS!
[QUOTE=da6YO;2231409]Few questions…I have read this thread over and over again.
I understand how a breather can help purge air/pressure from within the valve body…
So wouldn’t running a longer hose from a t-fitting on the looped lines up to the engine bay prevent any leaking and still do its job? How many of you said F the breather?
Also…once you take the right stuff out of the valve body…I’m assuming all PS fluid gets drained out during this process. How do you re-fill the valve body? Do I just fill the looped hoses and whatever fluid fits…fits? Or do I not even worry about re-filling? I’d like to get all old shitty auto zone PS fluid out and fill whatever I can with OEM Honda PS fluid…
THANKS![/QUOTE]
I’m also curious how many people didn’t bother with the breather, doesn’t seem necessary.