The New P/S Removal Thread (56K warning)

so just plug the holes?

Actually, a friend of mine emptied out the fluid, took out the valve lines, hammered the darn thing shut, and install it back. It has been well over 4 years and the perfomance is still the same. I was thinking about doing the same…

i want to just plug the holes instead of looping them. anyone know what size to use to do this?

Just as a note, you don’t need to take the rack out to do any of this.

I just got done looping and I simply removed the valve body from under the car (2 bolts and 4 lines) and then removed all the hardware on the bench. I took a few more things out of the valve body also. Did the looping and then reinstalled.

Chunk

jdmjerk…i just ordered all of these fittings from summit…earls AN fittings to be exact. i just want to plug it off and not do the looping. there are 2 12mm holes, 1 14mm hole, and 1 16mm hole.
to everyone else…i can just plug the holes right? do i still need to gut the valve body?
thanks,
kyle

its funny this thread got rolllin again.

I talked to my mechanic and he said it was the stupidest shit hes ever heard (looping lines; unless its the ones on the tranny)

So I researched (i think ive even posted a similar post about this but i dont mind re-posting it) and found some people are looping lines, some just take the fittings out and just leave it as is w/o plugs, some are taking the steering rack apart, ect

So this is what i did. I found a supplier around town and they make custom brake lines and yadda yadda. I told him what my objective was: make EXACT length plugs. Not only did i want exact fitting plugs but I wanted to them to be like a bleeder valve so trapped air could pass through.

So i got 4 fittings, and of those four two of the are like a bleeder valves. I just moved out and I didnt get a chance to take a picture of them but i will later when I finish swapping the motor.

GOOD NEWS:
For those who dont want to go get the fittings, I just bought a business license “Real Deal Motorsports” and Im thinking if I bought a bulk order I could get these things for $20-25 shipped. Mine costed alone WITHOUT a hookup $18.xx. Im thinking a large order would cut the price down very much.

MODS:
Im not trying to selling anything yet, just putting it out in the water, if I did decide to go ahead and do this, Ill pay the sponsership fee.

Later g2ic
-Nick

so in other words…you have 2 open fittings on the rack??? so when you turn the steering wheel, the pressure built up in the rack is going to push the fluid out of those holes on the fittings correct? therefore…eventually the rack is going to be empty of fluid and then dry up? i dunno, maybe i am misunderstanding you? if the rack and pinion is empty of fluid, it is going to dry up. that is the purpose of us keeping fluid in the rack, just for lubrication and preventing the rack from drying up. again, not sure if i am understnading you correctly or not…
kyle

The PS fluid doesn’t lube the rack. :giggle:

Chunk

Ill second that :giggle:, in fact ill give it two :giggle: :giggle:

Yes you understood me correctly and the ps fluid does not lube the rack at at all.

I did loop still however simply to keep whatever residual PS fluid that was left from leaking on my garage floor. I looped the 2 bigger lines and capped the 2 small ones. I reused a piece of hose that came out, the only things I purchased were rubber caps ands small hose clamps.

Actual plugs would be cool, i’d pay $25 for the set.

Chunk

th actual AN fittings cost almost $50. and btw…if the fluid does not lube the rack…why not just cut the steel lines about an inch before the threaded fitting into the rack and leave it??? that makes no sense at all. it is because it will dry up! a rack and pinion with absolutely no fluid in it, is not going to work all that well. ever wonder why all metal to metal moving parts on any car use some type of grease or fluid to keep them lubricated??? EXACTLY! :wink:

The PS fluid doesn’t lube the rack. :giggle:

Chunk

:giggle:

I need to get the pics, like i said i dont have access to the car its at the rents house in the driveway, ill get the pics though, its a nice setup.

i was going to call you out on the manual racks, but i dont know for sure, but do you grease manual racks? Im not thinking so. Ive talked to enough people to know that the flluid doesnt lube the rack.

hth ill keep yall posted

jdmjerk…i appreciate that. i hate when people run their mouth when they are not for sure about what they are talking about. i also apologize if i came across in a rude way. i jjust dont get what the point of putting anything in the holes if it is not to keep fluid in them…??? to avoid getting dirt in it? then but some little plastic thread in caps and drill a tiny hole in them…no dirt but still air can get through and there will be no pressure build up?? ill finish my setup tomorrow n take some pics of it…plugged off both 12mm lines with AN caps, and then rana steel braided line from the 14 to 16mm line.
thanks!
kyle

you didnt come off rude at all. honestly i was probably a little blunt/rude

i too thought that the PS fluid lubed the rack;why, because it makes PERFECT sense. I asked my honda mechanic and a few other honda mechanic guru’s and when they have a itr come in that isnt man enough to work on there own car and want the ps out, they just let it hang dry without plugs or anything.

my setup IMO is just the cleaner/proper way to do it, plug everything and get fittings to allow air to come out if needed. (the holes are sooooo tiny it would be very hard to get dirt up them)

hth, and Id love to see your setup as well, I wish more people would join the thread and jump on this topic so we can have some more input.

later bro! :dance:

Like I said in an earlier post, I plugged the lines so PS fluid didnt get all over my garage. We removed the PS pump and resevior from our other TEG and it leaked PS fluid for weeks. I capped 2 and looped 2 lines. Then of course I capped an lines i couldn’t get out.

Plastic caps are a good idea, I used rubber caps I found in the HELP section at the auto store.

Chunk

My answer to all of this is to buy a CRX manual steering rack. It pretty much bolts right into place. I just swaped one in over the weekend. I paid $35.00 for it and now all I have to do is go get it realined. If any one is interesed in this I can post the steps for you.

$35 thats pretty good where did you get yours from? …i want to start looking for one …and i wasnt really sure what they go for …

i heard crx rack needed to be modded quite a bit to be installed.