please post directions and pics if possiable
Id just try pluggin yourline before you swap out racks… I bet most are just too pussy to turn a steering wheel. Shit I have one working hand and Have no problems… But that was in a Civic too… Havent got to try my car Grrr
Installing a manual steering rack is easy.
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Buy a manual rack from a CRX from a junk yard.
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Jack the car up and install jack stands and remove front wheels.
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Remove everything that has to do with the factory power steering. Lines, hoses, resovoir ect… Make sure you have rags and a bucket to catch the pwr steering fluid
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Undo the metal splash sheild that cover the power steering rack pump(you are under the car now). 3 or 4 10mm bolts
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Now you should be able to see the power steering pump. Start undoing all of the lines that run to the pump. There is still going to be fluid in the lines so get some old rags and a can to catch the fluid.
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Undo both tie rods.
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Now go inside the car and remove the plastic cover that is covering the bottom of the streering coulm shaft and swival joint. There should be two bolts to undo the joint on the bottom of the steering shaft.
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Ok get back under the car and remove the 4 bolts that hold the rack to the bottom of the car. Two of the bolts are on the drivers side where the pump is and two bolts are on the passenger side. The two on the passenger side go thru a c-clamp thats holds the round part of the rack to the bottom of the car.
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Ok you have now undone the rack. Pull down and slide the rack to the passenger side of the car till the driver side tie rod end clears the shock fork and stuff and slide it out from underneath of the car.
Ok time to prep everything for the manual rack.
First thing to do is measure the distance from tie rod end to tie rod end So that you can adjust them on your new rack so your car will be able to make it to a aliment shop. Next install or replace your tie rod ends(if needed) on the new rack to the same measurements that you took off the orignal rack. There should be a rubber piece on the pwr rack (passenger side) that was underneath the c-clamp you undid to remove the rack. You will need to wrap that around the one allready on the manual rack because its a little bit smaller than the pwr rack and it need to be clamped tight agaisnt the bottom of the car. Ok now your all most done. Go inside the car with a hammer and a piece of pipe or what ever you can find and beat the metal that is around the area where the shaft and the joint swival. You might have to install the rack once to see what I meen for your self. Chances are if you dont do this and you put it back together the bolt on the swivel joint and the swival joint will hit when you turn the wheel from side to side. Mine hit a little bit with the steering wheel in the up postion and hit realy bad when in the down postion. After I made some clearence with the hammer I took the swival joint and ground it round so that I would have plentey of clearence no matter what postion you have the steering wheel in when you drive.
Thats pretty much everything just install the rack in the reverse order and make sure the swival joint doesnt bind or hit when turning the wheel from lock to lock. From a scale from 1 to 10 and 10 being the hardest I would say doing this is about a 3 1/2. The only thing that is hard is making clearence with the hammer because there is hardley any room to work down by the pedal assemble.
If you have any other questions I will try to help you out But its pretty easy.
I know my spelling sucks so I dont want to here anything about it, Im just trying to help everybody out.
is it any different if your using a manual steering rack form a EF hatch and sedan?
Good question. Im not sure. I found a couple guys that said a crx rack would work and that they were running them, so I took there advice and tryed it. If you allready have a EF rack just slide it under your car and look to see if it will work.
has anyone here used a EF sedan or hatch rack that would know …
thanks for the help everyone
yes, me (fka zoomintegra).
worked fine, but the steering ratio was far too slow for it to be a worthwhile mod for my purposes.
yea i only want it for the weight reduction …my DA is used for drag use only …thanks for the info 
Just completed the Civic/CRX manual conversion :rockon: …not as simple as most say…but in my opinion you must get the SI model, as this is a different part # and diffenatly has a quicker ratio!!!
:mad: BUT like I said this isnt as easy as everyone says…on my DA it required using the EF rear X-Member as the ‘half-moons’ that the rack actually resides in is way too big for the skinnier manual rack…everything bolts in except the front to rear engine X-Member. I had the engine out of the bay so this made it a slightly easier project…But a PROJECT non-the-less! :mad:
:hmm: If I somehow could have bypassed this please feel free to point ouy my dumb-assedness! :hmm:
Again!!! GET THE Si Manual Rack !!! MUCH MORE ENJOYABLE !!!
:rockon: congrats 
I have been looking at the HT article forever…
Do all DA/DBs have the speed sensitive PS? and if so does that make a difference?
yeah i have been trying to fig that one for a while now, don’t the DA’s have a steering system that will be more assistive in the lower speeds and less assistive in the uppder speeds?
well i am pretty confident that we do, but the fact we have this, does it make a difference?
later
ryan
HT write up on it http://1qckg2teg.mine.nu/stuff/ps_to_ms.doc
you people are making this harder than it is.
go back, read the instructions, and just do it. i’m zoomintegra, just new name. do you honestly think i would have done this to my car without researching it immensely thoroughly first? use some common sense folks.
What’s taht sensor on the actual PS line going to the pump for? I always wondered… Cause when you take taht out. do you jsut unplug it and leave the harness on the car open?
I’m also curious what are the gains of removing the internals of the valve body, you would think taht loopnig the lines with a breather will be sufficient and removing the internals won’t do much more to help?
those internals are one-way valves that restrict the flow of fluid—immensely. removing them is like straightening a garden hose with 27 kinks in it.
great comparison:up:
Ah gotcha. Anyone know abotu the sensor?
if you’re talking about a 2-pin connector, the helm manual says power steering pressure switch…page 23-18, toward the bottom of the table. what that means i really don’t know, but i never had any issues for over a year without p/s when the car was still being driven. i had issues with lots of other shit, but it was unrelated. 
AH great thanks.