ive been doing alot of research on different oils latley. i personaly run 10w30 in my da. however i just cant seem to find a good brand of oil to choose. almost every brand of oil is different in some way. ive been looking at viscosity index, flash point, pour point, and % of zinc and ash. so my question is, which brand of oil are g2ic members using in their cars? since i seem to burn oil some i have no real problem using orileys brand oil, it seems good and lasts a good amount of time but i want somthing better.
I use Chevrons Supreme non Synthetic 10w30.
Another one of these? I guess it doesn’t hurt since some people switch… like me.
My car actually burned some 5W30 Royal Purple, so I quit using it. I’ve been running 0W30 Mobile 1 since then and been getting the best gas mileage I’ve ever gotten and it was still showing on the dipstick and reasonably clean after 7k miles unlike the Royal Purple at only 5k (yeah, I probably should have changed it sooner than 7k, but it was my last semester of school and my car had to suffer for it). I’ve been happy with my NAPA Gold oil filters, too.
OEM honda filters on German Castrol 0w30
averaged 29mpg last tank, mostly highway miles.
70k miles on the motor
castrol gtx 10w30 in a 185k mile engine and not a problem, no burn and not a drip… even though I’m using a toggle bolt because my oil pan threads are shot.
main reason for picking castrol was the oil change deal at advanced auto parts. it was like $15 or so for Purolator filter & castrol gtx oil.
Walmart Supertech brand here. Never had a problem.
I used both their filters and oil… cheap and good to go.
Supertech oil filters have good reviews compared to other highly name brand such as Fram and junk.
I have used chevron, exxon, trop artic, castrol gtx, castrol synthetic, valvoline conventional, valvoline high mileage, valvoline full synthetic, penzoil high mileage and penzoil synthetic. I mostly use valvoline high mileage now, since I still have a lot of it. I don’t hesitate to dump whatever oil into my cars. Weighs vary from 5w-30 during the winter and 10w-30 summer. If I didn’t have so much motor oil I wouldn’t even bother changing weighs since I live in Southern Cal.
For filters, I have used honda, bosch, supertech and purolator. I have never done a used oil analysis. My oil change interval for non-synthetic is 5k miles. But my daily does have 196k miles, runs well and does still achieve an average of 34 miles per gallon.
After speaking with my tuner, I decided to stick with Valvoline Conventional oil in a 5-30 flavor. But when I went to NAPA to get my oil, the guy at the counter took me back to the oil section and talked my ear off for like 10minutes. He told me that Valvoline actually makes the NAPA oil and that it is the same formula, there is no difference. So I’ve been using NAPA 5-30 and have had no problems so far.
As far as oil filters… I went on a 3 day goole-binge in order to find the best filter for the price. What I came up with is:
Fram filters are garbage… Id rather use a coffee filter than screw a fram filter on my motor.
-Mobile-1 makes a REALLY good filter, but you’re gonna pay a pretty penny for it.
-Purolator also make good filters as well, the trick is finding a place that stocks them.
-WIX Filters are very similar to the Mobile units, and are highly recommended by people.
-K&N Filters kick as as well, but from what I read the level of micron-filtration isn’t as good as Mobile.
-NAPA Gold filters are made by WIX, and will cost about half of what the Mobile1 unit will cost, but the quality of a well-known and trusted product will still be ensured.
So to sum it up, I spend my hard-earned money on NAPA (Valvoline) oils and NAPA (WIX) filters, and I don’t worry if I am sacrificing reliability or quality to save a few bucks… I feel very confident of my purchase each time I change my oil.
Mobile One oil and filters have always worked well for me on my Honda’s. Sometimes I use an OEM filter if I remember to pick one up whenever I am at the parts counter.
I use Royal purple filters and oil when I work on cars I love. Like my Uncles Z06, friend’s STI or my cousin’s Roadrunner (its a one owner car, I pamper it and hope it gets put in the will to me).
If its a car that I respect then I use Wix filter with Castrol GTX. I use this on my old Dodge pickup.
If its a GM, or any other shitbox, I use the cheapest combination I can find and charge an extra tax cuz I’m an asshole.
I’m no mechanic, but I do get paid to tinker on cars on occasion.
[QUOTE=unified112;2168819]After speaking with my tuner, I decided to stick with Valvoline Conventional oil in a 5-30 flavor. But when I went to NAPA to get my oil, the guy at the counter took me back to the oil section and talked my ear off for like 10minutes. He told me that Valvoline actually makes the NAPA oil and that it is the same formula, there is no difference. So I’ve been using NAPA 5-30 and have had no problems so far.
As far as oil filters… I went on a 3 day goole-binge in order to find the best filter for the price. What I came up with is:
Fram filters are garbage… Id rather use a coffee filter than screw a fram filter on my motor.
-Mobile-1 makes a REALLY good filter, but you’re gonna pay a pretty penny for it.
-Purolator also make good filters as well, the trick is finding a place that stocks them.
-WIX Filters are very similar to the Mobile units, and are highly recommended by people.
-K&N Filters kick as as well, but from what I read the level of micron-filtration isn’t as good as Mobile.
-NAPA Gold filters are made by WIX, and will cost about half of what the Mobile1 unit will cost, but the quality of a well-known and trusted product will still be ensured.
So to sum it up, I spend my hard-earned money on NAPA (Valvoline) oils and NAPA (WIX) filters, and I don’t worry if I am sacrificing reliability or quality to save a few bucks… I feel very confident of my purchase each time I change my oil.[/QUOTE]
I run valvoline in my car. After I worked at a Valvoline quick lube I really started to like their product. Now I can get it cheaper! Awesome!
valvoline synthetic 5w30 and a fram tough guard 6x. the car hasnt ran smoother since i switched to synthetic.
Valvoline High mileage synthetic blend and fram orange or tough guard filters, been running that combo since i got the car almost 6 years ago and no complaints, no leaks drips or burns and it has 270k miles now… not sure why everyone hates on fram… the previous owner ran fram orange since new and no complaints…
Not sure about filtering ability, but I never liked them when I worked at a quick lube because the gaskets ALWAYS came off seperate. If you didn’t pay attention you double gasketed very easily.
Funny you mention that… I actually double gasketed my car the other day… my engine bay was a mess after that lol. And yes, it was on a Fram filter. On my daily-driven sohc civic I use whatever filters are on sale…
But as far as why Fram is hated by many is because of the inner-makings of the unit. Under certain pressure/conditions the filters can collapse or deteriorate, letting pieces of filter INTO your motor… Not good.
I read many many many posts on various car forums about Fram filters blowing up motors due to letting filter-elements into the oilstream. Do some google searching, I guarentee you will be enlightened and it will make you nervous to use a Fram filter again. It certainly opened my eyes.
My oil change always consists of:
4 quarts of Royal Purple Synthetic 10W30
1 Purolator Pure One Oil filter PL14459
That combination hasn’t done me wrong and the engine always seems to perform better when after a new oil change.
Stock 1992 Integra LS
does anyone know what addatives or oil that works best for engines that burn oil? mine burns oil. doesnt smoke unless im at like 6k or higher but other than that. it doesnt smoke. any advice? or just keep on filling
yeah, don’t take it past 6K.
low mileage GSR swap should cure that issue.
or a rebuild.
other than that, stop revving to 6k, its not a race car. if it was, you would fix that oil burning issue with an extensive rebuild so it doesnt fail on the track.
but its a street car, wait to hoon the car until you can afford to fix anything you might do.
there is a saying in racing: if you cant afford to push it off a cliff, you cant afford to race it.
stop risking your daily driver for another 1500rpm at the top end.