thermostat install...help!

take off your intake?, not sure y you guys would advise on doing so…i can see how you could have more room but, it took me like 25 min to change the stat and bleed the system.

Not on all cars but i did this on my b18a1 and no problems and no air…

didnt use the bleeder…dont ask me y, i allways do when i see it on a car, but i figured the top of the rad is higher then the bleered so no problems

anyways, i changed the t-stat filled the coolant with 70/30 (i find 50/50 weak personally) started the car and just filled the rad and kept it right at the top wile engine reving at around 1500 rpm, waited till fans to turn on to tell me the t-stat is open 100% so no air…now i have tons of heat with no problem’s

just my input personally

it’s worse on an automatik. the pressure lines get in the way big time!

i have an auto and never had that problem of it getting in the way.

just to let you know i have been a mechanic for a long time (almost 20 years), master certified bmw technician and ase master mechanic, and any advice i give is from my experience. not putting the correct mixture of coolant might seem like a good idea but the to over dilute or under dilute the glycol is a in most cases a bad idea, too much coolant and not enough water will screw up the heat transfer ability of your cooling system. i have seen many instances of people blowing head gaskets because of over heating. you may never have any problems, but why take a chance?
and the removal of the intake (not the intake manifold, just the pipe) made it easier for me, but any job that you think you can get away with removing the least amount possible is always better, but if it takes longer it is useless.
as for the bleed screw, i have a tool that is basically a large funnel that attaches to the rad fill so i hardly ever need to bleed the cooling system, but if you get a rouge air pocket it can creep in and start to cause cooling issues, so it is always a good idea to at least crack the screw to check for air. some people don’t seem to grasp the potential problems, or not care? i just don’t understand why someone would take the chance and advise otheres to do the same

[QUOTE=wodstlk;1707378]
as for the bleed screw, i have a tool that is basically a large funnel that attaches to the rad fill so i hardly ever need to bleed the cooling system, but if you get a rouge air pocket it can creep in and start to cause cooling issues, so it is always a good idea to at least crack the screw to check for air. some people don’t seem to grasp the potential problems, or not care? i just don’t understand why someone would take the chance and advise otheres to do the same[/QUOTE]

I have the “funnel tool” too. I love that thing!!
But yes, use the blead screw like wodstlk says, its alot easier to bleed the system with that, takes an extra couple min. and saves headaches in the long term!! I wish all car makers used bleader screws on their coolant systems. Which is why I bought the funnel tool when i work on other makes and models that don’t have bleader screws…

woops dbl post

ya, the funnel tool is great, i also have a pressurized filler system designed for Porsche, it works really well with any mid engine vehicle. and the bleed screw is usually only put on vehicles that traditionally have air pocket issues, but it is always a potential problem so it sure would be nice if all manufactures put a bleed screw somewhere. BMW’s are always a pain in the ass to bleed, especially the v12! so i have a ton of experience bleeding cooling systems, i have it down to a science and rarely have problems even with Ferrari or Lamborghini anymore.

are you talking about the tool Snap On/Blue Point makes?? Kinda looks like a radiator pressure tester?

it is a 5 gallon container with a pressure control valve, i got it from matco but they don’t make it

Ah ok. I know what you are talking about.

Easy fix guys…

Tools:
1/4 ratchet with 10mm socket
3/8 ratchet with 10mm socket and 2 inch extension
Pliers

First take off your Intake Tube to the air filter. Use the pliers to pull back the clamp on the hose then pull the hose back out of the way. Unplug the sensor so the wiring will move around easier. Use the 3/8 ratchet with the 2-inch extension on the bolt closest to the head. Use the 1/4 ratchet on the bottom bolt. Once you have to bottom bolt lose wiggle to ratchet out and finish up with your fingers “if you back the bolt out to much you wont be able to get the ratchet out from in between the bolt and starter”. After the bolts are out the housing should come right off. Took me 40mins today and that was the first time I’ve ever replaced mine. “92 B18A1”