Can anyone help out on this? Thanks
its easy, took me 1 hr
remove your intake for access
remove the 2 bolts that hold on the t.stat housing on
there is a ground bolt but it doesn’t need to be removed
pull hose with the housing away from the t.stat
use a screwdriver to pry out your stat if it doesn’t come easy
put the new stat gasket on the new stat, note the correct alignment to the bypass hole
install the new stat, note the 2 cut outs in the stat mount and line up with the stat gasket
reinstall the stat housing
top off with fresh coolant and loosen the bleed screw
fill until coolant comes out of the bleed screw
close the bleed screw and install the radiator cap
let the engine get to normal operating temperature and crack the bleed screw
bleed out all the air bubbles from the cooling system through the bleed screw
make sure coolant reservoir is topped off with fresh coolant while bleeding
and viola, all finished
are all those operations with the bleed screw are really needed?
sometimes. if you want you can fill the cooling system and leave the cap off overnight and most of the air will bleed itself. if you get air in there somewhere, the bleed screw will help you bleed the excess air. better safe than sorry and bleed while filling.
Originally posted by wodstlk
sometimes. if you want you can fill the cooling system and leave the cap off overnight and most of the air will bleed itself. if you get air in there somewhere, the bleed screw will help you bleed the excess air. better safe than sorry and bleed while filling.
i am really not getting this whole thing.
what is the bleed screw?
and what in the worse case can happen if you will have air in there while driving?
The bleed screw is at the end of the front hose. Looks kinda like a grease zerk or somethin.
Originally posted by Groove_D
i am really not getting this whole thing.
what is the bleed screw?
and what in the worse case can happen if you will have air in there while driving?
if you get air in the system, you could over heat and wreck your engine
if you don’t understand what I am saying, I think you should take it to a mechanic because it is a very basic maintenance procedure.
just take the extra 5 minutes out of ur time to bleed it after u change the thermostat… it isnt very hard… you break loose a bolt, tighten it back in, when engine is warm, you loosen it a little bit, the normal kind of bleeding bolt has a hole at the top, so you just turn it to the point where it’s loose, then let air come out, then soon enough, coolant/water will start comming out. when it does, ur done, and tighten it back up…
not very hard…
air bubbles in your engine arent good… and it messes with ur idle sometimes too…
thanks.
no problem 
i’ve never use the bleeder screw in my life nor has my dad in any car that he has owned! but you can if you want, no harm done if you do, but i’ve never had a time when not doing it did anything bac to my car! What we do is fill the radiator up all the way. And leave the cap off and start the car, and like it warm up so that the thermostat opens up like 2-3 times ot get all the air out, then fill up the radiator to the top all the way once done, and put the cap back on!
Originally posted by 93IntergraLS
i’ve never use the bleeder screw in my life nor has my dad in any car that he has owned! but you can if you want, no harm done if you do, but i’ve never had a time when not doing it did anything bac to my car! What we do is fill the radiator up all the way. And leave the cap off and start the car, and like it warm up so that the thermostat opens up like 2-3 times ot get all the air out, then fill up the radiator to the top all the way once done, and put the cap back on!
not every car needs to be bled through a screw. if a cars engine doesn’t have a bleed screw, chances are it hasn’t encountered any trouble with trapped air in the cooling system. if there is a bleed screw I highly recommend you use it. it doesn’t take any extra time, in fact it makes the job easier. just because you or your dad has never used a bleed screw doesn’t mean they aren’t necessary. you probably shouldn’t give advice that could potentially cause engine damage.
First time i change my thermostat, took me SIX (6) HOURS! From 11:30pm to 6am… (thought i’d take 3 hours max to do it LOL!)
Take off:
Intake,
Battery,
Battery Tray (if you need to replace lower hose as well),
Distrubutor (for easier access to the thermostat 2 DAMN BOLTS!),
Raditator fan (easier access to lower hose),
Front Upper Strut bar (if you have one)…
Yea, draining, flushing, the coolant was the easy part. Removing the 2 bolts on the thermostat cover was the toughest part!!! 2 bolts took me 2 hours to do it, mainly because i think it had never been release for MANY YEARS, in addition, there is NOT MUCH place for you to unscrew them…
But once you got the whole thing done, you’ll feel so proud of yourself!
Oh, remember to bleed the air out after. Then let it cool off, and then refill some more coolant. Check the coolant in the next 2 days after it cool off, some more air might get out after you run it a few time. (That’s what i did, and i just fill them up a little til they are full)
Wow, you took a LOT of stuff off to work on the thermostat. lol
I didn’t do any of that stuff, and I agree it’s tough to get at those two bolts, but I still managed. I have to do it again soon though. We’ll see how it goes this time…
do you really have to drain all your fluid?
I just took off my intake. I had never removed the t stat on a Honda motor before and it only took about 1 hr., that’s with cutting my fucking finger to the bone on the head gasket! there is a bolt on the t stat housing that is a pain in the ass but if you have the proper tools, its not so bad. I think the hardest part for me was getting the housing, t stat and gasket to line up properly while getting the bolt started before it came apart. if it helps you though, remove every thing you need to make your job easier.
I drained all my fluid, even the block drain was removed, only because I was changing the type of coolant (from green to blue) but if your coolant is in good shape, there is no need to flush it completely. if the coolant has rust in it or is a funky color, it is a good idea to remove all you can before topping off.
Originally posted by Groove_D
do you really have to drain all your fluid?
Well, mine havent been change for nearly 2 years or more i think, when i drain them, THEY WERE NEARLY AS DARK AS THE ENGINE OIL! And it was very thick too… then when i flush it, i see a lots of black residue coming out. So yea, i think its best to drain and flush it.
I followed the flushing guide from Haynes manual, and remove the stat from Helmes manual… It runs great now, no more brown coolant, is pure (50/50) green coolant. 
It runs fine, no leak or anything. Happy reving.
Quick question, which hose do you have to take off in order to get to the thermostat, the top one or the bottom one? I’m comfused!
I believe it’s the lower one – the one that goes to the back of the engine.
the lower hose.
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take off the hose after you drian the system.
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take off the house held on by 2 or 3 bolts.
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remove thermo and put net on in with new gasket.
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reverse in order or removel.
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refill with 50/50 mix and bleed system.