Hello, couldn’t exactly find what i was looking for. so here goes
I have a 90 LS chassis with a 92 GSR swap. Its pushing 12.5:1 CR on N/A.
This car is going to be my daily driver and all around everything car. I dont plan on doing Official Drag racing, or tracking the car.
its got a stock LS throttle body on it at the moment. I was wanting to upgrade, to bigger size TB.
do i need to upgrade to a bigger size?
If so which should i go with a 62mm or 65mm?
thanks
It has an AEM air intake
Professional Products Whirlwind GSR Intake Manifold
AT moment LS or smaller Throttle body
STOCK head and cams
Acura RDX 410cc Injectors
AEM high-flow fuel rail
JE 12.5:1 Pistons - stock bore
ACL race series Main/Rod bearings
CP piston rings
Aftermarket no name 4-2-1 header
XACT streetlite flywheel
Exedy stage1 clutch
For that comp you should be running itr, ctr cams at the very least. And your better off with 68 mm tb. Honestly just get a 70 mm , you’ll be glad you did if you ever get sk2 tuner 2 or pro 1.
And just invest in a good 2.5" exhaust and hytech header.
If you don’t really plan on much then leave your setup. A good exhaust system will go a long way on any setup.
well i was looking at in near future doing head work. i.e. stage 2 cams, upgraded valves, retainers, guides, springs, seals etc. then going with like a victorX manifold.
i was told 2.5 would be too big exhaust for my setup i.e. not enough back pressure. so i was thinking 2.25 or so. or will the extra 1/2 inch make that big of a difference
Well the headers collector is 2.5 and doubt you will loose back pressure through entire system from headers to the tip.
2.5" is fine on an all motor b-series.
With pistons that big you’re going to really wish you had bigger cams… and “12:1” pistons dorsnt mean anything unless you’ve actually thrown the bore/dome height in a compression calculator and found the actual Compression Ratio. Www.ZealAutoWerks.com has a good one.
Pistons will all make different CR depending on what block you put them in.
[QUOTE=unified112;2308151]2.5" is fine on an all motor b-series.
With pistons that big you’re going to really wish you had bigger cams… and “12:1” pistons doesn’t mean anything unless you’ve actually thrown the bore/dome height in a compression calculator and found the actual Compression Ratio. Www.ZealAutoWerks.com has a good one.
Pistons will all make different CR depending on what block you put them in.[/QUOTE]
[B]Well despite the advice about going with a 68mm or 70mm,
i went conservative and bought a 65mm Professional Products TB.
I got it %50 of retail price on Ebay, 90 for the TB and 10 shipped to my door so for 100 spent i think i did alright. Its no edelbrock or BBK TB, as Im not in a position to spend that type of money on a TB at the moment. Im just trying to get the engine and components upgraded appropriately to be set up for a dyno-tune.
bad thing is i wasn’t thinking and its meant for a 94-01 integra instead of a 90-93. i got a plan though. thats a new thread though[/B]
I have devised a build plan for the head.
I plan on Brian Crower Stage 3 cams, i was going to do stage 2 BC cams but their website states "if high CR, use stage 3, also states that the Stage 3’s are still fully street-able cams but are a great race cam as well. S/S valves (haven’t decided if i want to go with oversized valves i.e. +.1 or +.5 or not, don’t know why or if i would need to or how much it would help.) BC dual valve springs, Titanium retainers, upgraded valve guides, and keepers, seals and of course a set of adjustable cam gears.
Converting to use a '94+ MAP is super easy. Just extend the existing 3 wires on the firewall-mounted MAP so they reach the top of the TB
The TPS will not need modification.
so the swap will work.?! sweet! why does the throttle body have a coolant hook up anyways? its on the bottom or 6 oclock position? and why do some aftermarket TB’s not have coolant hookups
On older motors like ours, there was a FIT-Valve (Fast Idle Thermo Valve) that was installed on the bottom of the TB. On the later model Integras, the FITV was removed. I don’t know why some companies keep the coolant routing and some just delete it.
Yes, the new throttle body will work… Most any aftermarket TB will be '94+ style, so it’s very common for DA owners to have to modify things a bit. As I said, extend the 3 wires on the MAP sensor so it will reach the new location.
The only other thing is sorting out the vaccum lines… but that is really quite easy if you follow the stock routing, while keeping in mind what is no longer needed with the new TB.
yes i was mistaken. Its the FIT valve, that i was asking about. not the IACV
my stock TB does not look like it has one. Do i need it, im assuming i do not.
i did find a FIT valve block off plate. should i buy that, install it, and call it good?
You never really factored in your first post that you had a budget.
If money controls your setup then you get what you paid for.