Hi guys, I’m new here and I’ve been searching the internet for some weeks trying to find an answer so I’ve just decided to post it and hope someone can help me.
To make a long story short, I have a thrown rod in my B18A1. There’s a hole in the side of the block. My question for you all is would I be able to replace everything from the block down, as in keeping my head, or should I just replace everything? And if I did, could I use a B18A1 block from a newer engine, or would I need an OBD0 B18 block. I would be willing to replace everything, but it’s near impossible to find an OBD0 B18 in my area and I’m not sure I have the resources for a OBD0 to OBD1 conversion for the engines that I do have.
The answer lies in knowing what your goal is. Maximum horsepower? Cheap as possible? Etc… Your cheapest/easiest option would probably be a used Japanese b18b or b20 engine. Finding a used b18a block or engine and rebuilding it will be more expensive than a Jdm replacement unless you use the cheapest parts and have free access to a machine shop.
Whether or not you need replace the head as well depends on the condition. Often when you throw a rod the head will also be damaged. You won’t know if it’s usable until you pull it off and check.
Easiest is to swap a full long block. You can use an OBD-1 motor and move your sensors/dizzy over. A b20 would be a nice upgrade with some more torque. Check your local wreckers for DC tegs and CRV’s.
Gonna be hard to find a used JDM b18a, but you can easily find a b18b or b20 which is a direct swap once you swap over some of your original wiring, sensors…etc. There is TONS and TONS of info out there on how to do these swaps, so just do some searching.
Okay, thanks guys. I found a 92 OBD1 B18A1. Would I be able to just keep all my wiring, ECU, distributor etc. and just swap it onto the long block? Or would I have to do any conversions with harnesses and whatnot
Yes, you’ll want to use as much from the original engine as possible. There will be some vacuum hose differences if you want to keep the OBD1 intake manifold. But the biggest difference is the ECT Switch. On your original engine this is on the back of the block but on the new engine it’s on the thermostat housing. You’ll need the ECT switch wiring from the new engine (or get one from the junk yard, it’s a common connector). You’ll cut off the connector from your original wiring, extend the wires so they reach over to the thermostat housing and then solder on the proper connector. Do some searching, there’s lots of info about this here and online. You can also consult the G2IC engine swap guide in the teg tips. http://forums.g2ic.com/tegtips/