Night before Thanksgiving my timing belt decided to jump or something. After getting to look at it, both cam gears were at TDC(not exactally but they were both still lined up). Finally after gettting everything put together and tried firing it up, wouldnt crank. Pulled out the plugs and 2 looked fouled 2 looked like there near it. And also did a compression test. Scores for it was Cyl 1-100 Cyl 2&3- 120 Cyl 4-140…140 isnt that low of a compression but cylinder 1, 2, 3 isnt to pretty. When we did the test we had all the plugs out and it was open cylinders so maybe the compression was lowered from that. But i dont fully believe its got a bent valve or anything cause the compression wouldnt even be that high in what ever cylinder its in.
Anyone got some ideas or thoughts to throw out, ill appreciate em
the cam gears should have the up arrows up, and the two dots pointing exactly at eachother. the crank pulley also has to be lined up, there is alot of work to pull the belts, balancer, mount and misc to get to the belt…if you go that far, change the belt and tensioner and water pump. the car will still crank wether the belt is broken or not, just wont start. if the timing is perfect, and car wont start…its not timing…either §§§§§, computer, sensor, etc.
All the marks and everything was lined up right. Everything got put at TDC, and remained at TDC while putting it on. Two plugs were fouled. So i have to wait til tomorrow to get into the shop and put the new ones on and see what im getting. If no luck then im just scraping the damn thang
start from the beginning here. what exactly happened to cause you to believe your timing jumped? and upon inspection, was the timing in fact off?
you have to be clear about what the problem is before attempting to fix it. otherwise, you could just be chasing your tail
Makes no sense yes. Im highly lost in WTF it could be. The timing belt ultimately “stretched” and the tensioner was gone. When it first off happened thought that it was caused from the rotor button being off again cause the screw would vibrate its self out, but even then, the car would attempt to crank. But putting it back it wouldnt turn over. So thought lets get the timing belt replaced and do the water pump and go at it. At this moment getting everything done I had a buddy helping me out and he decided to go forth and take it on mostly his self so i wasnt even sure if everything was done correctly. When trying to crank, it never would turn over. Though i should had checked to make sure there is any sign of spark. Though i didnt the spark plugs were fried and i went ahead and decided to get them replaced just havent made it to the shop to put them in. We did a compression test that night as well and the readings have already been said.
As i said im really unsure what it may be. Maybe the ECU is fried? Something electrical. Or possibly the motors 180 out…who knows at this point
[QUOTE=welfare;2237956]start from the beginning here. what exactly happened to cause you to believe your timing jumped? and upon inspection, was the timing in fact off?
you have to be clear about what the problem is before attempting to fix it. otherwise, you could just be chasing your tail[/QUOTE]
Though im not 100% sure it was the timing thats off. Both cam gears were still aligned the same, I had already planned to replace it cause there was no tell when it was last done. But as I said it stretched and tensioner was no good cause the belt was severly loose.
the belt isn’t supposed to be tight. there will be some slack in it. that’s normal. not sure what you mean by the motor being 180* out. not possible.
check for spark. you already know you have compression. so it’s either that, timing, or fuel
So let me clear it up. What happened was driving down the interstate my engine just shut off. First though was bent valves but forgot that it was an intergrated motor and had a safety sensor that would shut the valves so that left my mind. So went ahead and replaced the timing belt, water pump, and tensioner. First go around doing it my buddy didnt put the cams in time correctly (they were 180 out). So ran out of time and had to work and took to this weekend to get a shot at it again. So 15 minutes of being there i got it put in time and it wouldnt do nothing but try, try, try to crank but wouldnt do nothing but spin. So i ultimately thought the head was done for so my buddy lended me a head to use to replace it with. So after taking the head off and checking everything, nothing was wrong. No bent valve, they seated well, there was no damage to the pistons nor the cyliner walls. So we said screw it and threw my old head back on. Well then decided while putting it back together that maybe the distributor wasnt producing enough ark to fully crank the motor, so we swapped that out as well. Still, NOTHING!!!
Next we checked the ECU nothing was fired and checked the main relay and that was also fine. So the checked the fuel feed line to make sure i was getting fuel and sure was.
After 10 1/2 hours and no food or drink i decided to call it a night, with no answers and really no solutions that i can think of…So if anyone has had any issue like this or maybe knows what could possibly be the reason for all this, tell me what ya think. Im all eyes and ears to reasonable solutions
Okay, why would you even think it had anything to do with the timing belt in the first place. If your timing belt snapped, your car would crank ridiculously fast. You shouldn’t just start throwing parts at a car in hopes of fixing it. Just because your main relays “looks” fine, doesn’t mean its fine. Try a known good part. They go out fairly often and they do control fuel which CAN and WILL cause an engine to shut off. Another possible cause could have been the alternator not charging the battery.
Since you already messed with the timing belt…make sure ALL your marks are on point. Not too familiar with these DA motors yet, but I’m guessing if they’re like most honda’s…you have to time both cams to each other with the crankshaft at top dead center and the oil pump as well. So double check that. If you think that you got all that straight already…try your friends main relay. You should be able to hear the pump prime when you turn the ignition on. Also check your spark. Crank it and pull a plug and make contact with a unpainted metal surface.
Ok. Reason i messed with the timing belt was because the belt one had wear and two “stretched” and also the tensioner was gone. So there for the timing belt/water pump/tensioner was replaced. The crank cams and oil pump are all TDC so that isnt a issue. We checked that a good number of times to make sure we had it in time correctly. We checked the spark. Had a plug contacting a grounding surface to produce spark and that all happened and the plugs shouldnt been a problem because they all are brand new and gapped at .040
But i dont think a main relay from a dual point ef civic is gonna work with a multi point integra. The harnesses are different, so ill have to get one from one that will work ultimately.
my god man.
if you were to drop this off at our shop and said everything that you just typed, here is the order that i’d look at it in.
check the codes first. always. it’s the simplest thing to do, doesn’t cost anything, and could lead you on the right track. if no codes present…
check spark. and not just that it is present, but that it is consistent. random ignition is an indication of malfunctioning components in the distributor.
check compression. i am going to assume that you used a brand new head gasket every time you reinstalled the head if the bolts were torqued… hopefully.
if your mechanical timing is off, or you did in fact bend valves when you had the cams out 180* (not even sure how that happened, as it’s clearly stated “up” on the cam gears and they would have been pointing down), it will show through the compression test. you can’t just eyeball these things and assume they’re fine.
have a look at the plugs while they’re out and clean them off. make sure they’re not covered in oil from leaking grommets or anything.
check fuel pressure. make sure the pump is priming as well.
check injector pulse.
compressed air/fuel, ignition and timing. the basics of any 4 stroke engine.
if you do all of those checks; and do them correctly, and still haven’t figured out the problem, then we need to dig deeper
[QUOTE=welfare;2238709]my god man.
if you were to drop this off at our shop and said everything that you just typed, here is the order that i’d look at it in.
check the codes first. always. it’s the simplest thing to do, doesn’t cost anything, and could lead you on the right track. if no codes present…
check spark. and not just that it is present, but that it is consistent. random ignition is an indication of malfunctioning components in the distributor.
check compression. i am going to assume that you used a brand new head gasket every time you reinstalled the head if the bolts were torqued… hopefully.
if your mechanical timing is off, or you did in fact bend valves when you had the cams out 180* (not even sure how that happened, as it’s clearly stated “up” on the cam gears and they would have been pointing down), it will show through the compression test. you can’t just eyeball these things and assume they’re fine.
have a look at the plugs while they’re out and clean them off. make sure they’re not covered in oil from leaking grommets or anything.
check fuel pressure. make sure the pump is priming as well.
check injector pulse.
compressed air/fuel, ignition and timing. the basics of any 4 stroke engine.
if you do all of those checks; and do them correctly, and still haven’t figured out the problem, then we need to dig deeper[/QUOTE]
Steps 1,2 & 3 were all passes. Only CEL it ever threw was 12 and 13 which isnt but EGR valve and BARO sensor.
