Complete B17 motor swap for sale. 84mm sleeves installed by Golden Eagle, Headwork done by DFE in Florida, Brian Crower 84.5mm stroker kit, CP 12:1 pistons, Buddy Club Stage 4 cams, Supertech valve train, Hondata S300, PLX wideband, Competition Clutch stage 2 clutch and lightweight flywheel, Moroso large capacity oil pan, complete list of parts below.
Everything was new when motor was built, I just checked inspected and re-torqued everything, bearings are like new, compression is within 8psi across the cylinders.
$sold
Engine:
B17 Block & Head
Golden Eagle Sleeves 84mm
Golden Eagle Oil Squirter Deletes
Brian Crower Stroker Crank 84.5mm
Brian Crower 4340 Rods
ACL Bearings
CP Pistons 12:1
CTR Pulley
Golden Eagle Head Gasket
ARP Head Studs/Rod Bolts/Flywheel Bolts
Type R Oil Pump
DFE Ported Head
Supertech Flat Valves
Supertech Dual Springs and Retainers
Buddy Club Stage 4 Cams
Skunk 2 Pro Cam Gears
RC 370cc Injectors
Toda Timing Belt
AEM Fuel Rail & Regulator
Ported P61 Manifold
AEM Intake
Moroso High Capacity Oil Pan
Hondata S300 (OBD1 P61 ECU)
PLX M300 Wideband with Bosch Sensor
Denso Iridium Plugs
MSD Super Conductor Wires
Y1 Transmission
Competition Clutch 2200
Competition Clutch 11lb flywheel
Axles and Halfshaft
WTF… you paid that much for 84.5mm stroker? why not just do gsr 87 or LS 89 stroke setup for 1/10th the cost & make well over +20% more in power for serious builds.
GLWTS, qaulity parts & nice for die-hard b16 - b17 fans!
[QUOTE=charlie moua;2316937]WTF… you paid that much for 84.5mm stroker? why not just do gsr 87 or LS 89 stroke setup for 1/10th the cost & make well over +20% more in power for serious builds.
GLWTS, qaulity parts & nice for die-hard b16 - b17 fans![/QUOTE]
20% more mate, damn I didn’t even think of that. So you interested in buying or trolling?
I would hate to see someone waste money on a stroker kit such as that. Not knocking the qaulity of the motor, just pointing out the where the flawed throught processes is for someone who thinks this is a serious “performance” engine.
How much power did you make with those Buddy ClubIII cams?
Most I’ve seen them do ever is 240whp and that’s on my buddies B20v 84.5mm bore x 95mm (brian crower) crank/stroke on e85.
I’ve never seen anyone post dyno charts of a 84x84.5 motor, my best guess is that your particular setup listed would make 185-190whp & 130-135tq if that. You can only do so much with a 84.5mm crank.
Seriously, GLWTS hope you find the “right” buyer either noob or die-hard OG B16-B17 fan.
Proportionate ratio of stroke/bore allows for highest revving reliability. This motor would be perfect for autocross. Not every motor is built for drag racing. And I thought he said stage 4 cams not III.
[QUOTE=charlie moua;2316995]no if I wanted to troll it would be more obvious.
I would hate to see someone waste money on a stroker kit such as that. Not knocking the qaulity of the motor, just pointing out the where the flawed throught processes is for someone who thinks this is a serious “performance” engine.
How much power did you make with those Buddy ClubIII cams?
Most I’ve seen them do ever is 240whp and that’s on my buddies B20v 84.5mm bore x 95mm (brian crower) crank/stroke on e85.
I’ve never seen anyone post dyno charts of a 84x84.5 motor, my best guess is that your particular setup listed would make 185-190whp & 130-135tq if that. You can only do so much with a 84.5mm crank.
Seriously, GLWTS hope you find the “right” buyer either noob or die-hard OG B16-B17 fan.[/QUOTE]
Those are Buddy Club Stage 4 cams, please read more carefully to avoid more failed insults. The motor made over 220hp with extremely safe cam timing, almost stock ignition timing, and a much more restrictive exhaust and header. There’s more that goes into making power than displacement.
But what you’re saying is that if I just used an 89mm ls block, I could have made 20% or 40+ more hp? Your an idiot, if you think 100cc more is going to net me 40+ more hp. Aside from that this crank is a lot stronger and more resistant to flex then a stock crank, it’s also lighter, as are the rods, which are also stronger. The rod/stroke ratio is also less stressful than a longer one which allows higher rpms a lot safer. I thought about a lot of things when I built this 7 years ago, and I think I thought it out pretty damn good considering it hasn’t given me any problems in 7 years.
Have you built any motors? Do you have any experience? No you’re probably some kid driving around a stock LS who thinks they know everything cause they read some wikipedia articles.
lmao can’t believe the mods deleted my post. i wasn’t trolling.
pulls nice and strong? compared to what? stock b16?
square motor?
what does that mean & why is it better than “less sqare” motor?
proportionate rsr? don’t give me that rsr bsery… this isn’t the early late 90’s whe b16 were the cream of the crop.
motor built for autox?
where is this stuff coming from…
it’s this kind of bsery that just seems like fancy smacy sales pitch with no value behind it.
that’s awesome that members here allow other members to try and dump overpriced parts onto unknowing noob members with out putting the discolsure out there. For those who know better like myself, we shouldn’t be “muted” from voiceing our concerns.
i guess it’s a dog eat dog world even in our small aging community.
You might as well say it’s JDM too cause that will add some value to it.
Thank you for the positive comments, the motor runs very well and smooth. I’ve had it for 7 years with no problems, it doesn’t have a lot of miles on it as it was a weekend driver/toy. While some would say to use more stroke, for myself the 100cc more I would have had from using an 89mm ls block wouldn’t have made much of a difference in power, especially not 20%/40+hp more. The motor made around almost 220 when I had it tested soon after it was built, that was on 93, in FL, with a stock throttle body, stock manifold except for port matching, 4-2-1 Greddy header with a 2in collector, and not very high rpms because there just wasn’t enough air flow with the restrictions. Personally I think dyno numbers are worthless bullshit, but some people think they mean everything. The car walks away from my Mazdaspeed 3 in a roll and runs away from a stop so I think it’s pretty good for a na 1.9l. It still has the stock throttle body but after switching to a 2.5in header and exhaust it made a huge difference, I’m sure a better tb/im setup would help even more, and if you wanted to degree the cams closer and advance the ignition there’s some extra as well.
This crank is much lighter and stronger than stock cranks, as are the rods, etc. I autocross and do track days so I would rather have had the reliable high rpms than more torque. With the fwd it’s much easier to get on the power through the corners at high rpms when you don’t have as much torque fighting against you for traction so this worked best.
I had a 2.0l ls/vtec and a 2.0 turbo setup and this was the most enjoyable setup by far, not the fastest in a straight line, but most fun to drive. If someone thinks it’s overpriced, no problem, I’m not trying to scam anyone, I’ve been around the honda community for a long time, you’re more than welcome to make me a lower offer and I’m more than welcome to accept or decline.
hey man long time no see, hey I was doing to do a build just like this. but I have now came across this. if you still have this let me know I am very interested in this. contact info will be by email for now is the best way to reach me. awilis0206@ gmail.com
