can anyone help me the the torque specs on a ls with arp main studs and the steps please and the ls eagle h-beams
no sequence for rod bolts, they are aftermarket so i’d assume the torque spec would be different than oem rods. so i’d inquire on that. for the head bolts… GET A MANUAL! even a cheap $20 haynes/chilton would do. if u could get ur hands on a helms manual that would be even better. but the torque specs is the same from what i’ve heard with the arp head studs.
i dont need the head bolts jus the mains
main bearings: 2 step, first 22 ft lbs then 56 ft lbs
rod bearings: 30 ft lbs
You do not torque head STUDS such as ARP. You make them snug and then torque the NUT that comes with them. This preloads them properly.
Main studs you torque to what ARP recommends.
Torque from the inside out. Start with the two center. To loosen start from the outside in.
You torque head BOLTS> THere’s a difference.
Loosing Sequence
[B] 1 - 7 - 9 - 5 - 3
4 - 6- 10 - 8 - 2[/B]
Torque Sequence
[B]8 - 6 - 2 - 4 - 10
9 - 3 - 1 - 5 - 7[/B]
Make sure as mention to just loosen each one until it starts to turn, then move on to the next bolt.
Repeat until all is freely to turn with just socket on then remove them.
When installing grease the thread with oil first, then as mention 2 steps.
Tighten each bolt down until u cant turn socket with hand, then repeat by tightening it to 22lbs for all.
Repeat and this time torque to 56lbs. I’ve always tend to go about 3-4lbs over helms specs just to be safer.
So 22lbs-25lbs and 56lbs-60lbs isnt going to hurt. As some other manual probably say a lil more than less if anything.
I just done a rebuilt and have put 1600 on it and its been fine. I do remember reading somewhere that it is best to retorque the head studs after prior engine break ins so i dont know if it is still needed for me, but i might do it when i do a valve adjustment at 10k.