OK so I’ve had my k tuned bar in for 6 months now, for people that don’t know it has two hiem joints on each side.
So it does have a lot of room mess up your caster if you don’t take note before removal of the one cross member.
So after installing the bar it made a click sound of the bar binding on the driver side, I just added oil and it would go away.
I then noticed my passenger side caster was dead center and my driver side wheel back 1" so I took some measurements and centered it best I could and the click noise got better to where It’s almost gone.
Anyone know the caster specs and how to to measure it?
Or can someone tell me what specs they have and how you measure it.
It’s not super critical and luckily pretty easy to just eyeball yourself. I actually saw a DA down the street from my house and measured from the body panel gap between the fender & door over to the center of the axle. I forget the measurement off the top of my head, but iirc it was exactly 21" or 22". I just used that to get it into the ballpark so I could at least drive it safely to the alignment shop. Turned out my setting was dead on and the shop didn’t even need to adjust it. I’d suggest finding another (stock) car to measure, or perhaps someone here can measure their car. I’m not at a home so I can’t get that from my car.
I don’t know how to be nice in these situations so I’m going to try my best. YOUR IDIOTS!!!
Caster, Camber, Toe. That is the order in which alignment measurements must be adjusted starting with the rear and then to the front. Go to a shop with the proper machine/lift/equipment and have everything dialed in properly. Caster will effect, camber, and camber will effect toe. So EVERY time you mess with a component that effects these measurements you are effecting all your other measurements. Just because your steering wheel is straight and your wheels “look” straight does not mean everything is in proper order. So all that being said it’s simple. Get an alignment and you’ll be good to go. Have a nice day!!!
[QUOTE=G14inc;2330810]I don’t know how to be nice in these situations so I’m going to try my best. YOUR IDIOTS!!!
Caster, Camber, Toe. That is the order in which alignment measurements must be adjusted starting with the rear and then to the front. Go to a shop with the proper machine/lift/equipment and have everything dialed in properly. Caster will effect, camber, and camber will effect toe. So EVERY time you mess with a component that effects these measurements you are effecting all your other measurements. Just because your steering wheel is straight and your wheels “look” straight does not mean everything is in proper order. So all that being said it’s simple. Get an alignment and you’ll be good to go. Have a nice day!!![/QUOTE]
“YOUR IDIOTS”?? At least use the correct “you’re” while you’re up on that high horse, buddy…
So my heim joints on the bar make a lot of noise now and just started to sound like loose washers on the wheel on every bump.
I wanted to replace them since they seem cheap. I’ve had them for 1 year now, I daily the car In the dry socal weather. Nothing special.
So I emailed ktuned for specs on the traction bar heim joints and the said they don’t have them but can sell me the joints for $80.
I refuse to believe they don’t know the specs.
Does anyone here know the specs of the joints so I can order some online.
Check out the products made by Aurora, they are really well liked for rod end bearing applications like this and could even be what came with the bar originally. I’d take tons of measurements, maybe even some pics and then check out what they offer and compare. If y can’t figure it out then I’d contact them (or a retailer) for help.
Perhaps this just isn’t a good street setup, hard to say if that’s the case or if the helm joints were faulty or poor quality. Did you make sure they were installed correctly so as not to bind?