Hey guys I have a 91 integra that I’m currently fixing up, my exhaust bolts are pretty rotted out for it being in new England it’s whole life, I’m missing an exhaust bolt by my cat and the donut is missing, muffler is pretty rusty too, so I’m looking to replace the exhaust soon… Also going to swap in a new header while I’m at it but I either need to notch the crossmember…which I’m not doing whatsoever, or install a traction bar… Anyone running a traction bar on their da? If so what brand Are you using? Thoughts of it?? Also if you can recommend a decent exhaust / header if you wouldn’t mind that’d be awesome, I was Thinking one of the PLM header variations, but nothing too too huge, stuck on exhaust brands after the header however
http://forums.g2ic.com/showthread.php?216184-Review-ETD-K-tuned-traction-bar-2013-model
your exhaust option will really depend on what your future plans are. if you are looking for something that will just be an upgrade from stock then a megan header with with any ebay brand exhaust will do you fine. if you buy an ebay exhaust though, get the tip cut off and get a normal sized one from advance or auto zone welded on.
if you are looking to build the motor and make power down the line then i recommend the hks hi power with any big tube header. i am using the plm toda rep myself on my da back home. its a pretty nice header. clean welds and it turns gold after a while.
Ya i don’t plan for super power just upgrade from stock, are you running a Megan header?
I like your thread on the traction bar, how much did that end up costing you?
i was using a megan header. im have the plm toda rep now and im still stock on my other da.
i dont remember how much i spent on it…
How do you like the plm?
the gains in HP arnt big but you can definitely feel it. I say get the traction bar and get a good header.
I’m building a full na B20v on sk2 pro2 cams and currently have my bone stock engine in with hyend rep header. the difference is like night and day. good power all around and up top. engine feels like it can really breath, and I have the stock intake box.
I’ve ran other DA’s from a dig and stay ahead by a car at mid 3rd.
point is get good headers you’ll be happy you did.
My plans are to keep my LS stock for now, basic bolt-ons here and there but still making some good gains, I plan to do header and exhaust, intake, tb, convert to obd1 and do an intake manifold and valve train by the time I’m done with school. Would I be better off with a 4-2-1 or 4-1 header ( 1pc vs 2pc) where I probably won’t be high rpm bound quite yet
if you plan on keeping the mods to a bolt on level then upgrading parts in the head wont give you any real benefit.
port and polish along with a bigger intake manifold and throttle body will be money better spent than buying valve springs and the like. instead of buying head upgrades you should focus more on the block. forged internals are great investments. once you have your bottom end built up THEN go on to the head starting with cams then go with the valves and springs and all that.
honestly with the header, just get what ever is nice for you for the time being. i forget which on is which but one style header is for low end power and the other is more for high end. theres a lot of info on 4-2-1 vs 4-1.
4-1 better high end performance
4-2-1 better low and mid-range performance
Awesome thanks, I’m Definately going to want a 4-2-1
For the price you really can’t beat the PLM TA (Toda Replica). Best combination of price, power, quality an ground clearance. Check out the header dyno comparisons out there (there are many).
Can I still keep power steering or will I have fitment issues with the toda rep ?
Power steering? I’ve never heard of any header interfering with the PS. Maybe some crazy rats nest looking one or something. Google the Toda rep, you’ll see it’s just a standard shaped header and won’t interfere with PS.
awesome thanks so much ill check it out
you might need clearance on the ac fan and header. and you might need to wrap the header in fiberglass wrap since it might be 1/4 or so away from the rad.
Ac is already removed !
That very well may be my next header… my eBay 4-1 has the most shitty ground clearance.
I’ve cheaped out on tons of parts including header(s) it’s not worth it to buy anything but well known brands because you pay as much fixing the cheap part __ times than you would to buy the good part once
yes, most people dont understand that buying car parts shouldnt be something that you want to skimp out on. not being patient and not saving your money to do things properly will only cause issues.
save your 1’s and buy the correct part the first time. trying to rush and buying cheap ebay brand parts will only mess your car up. building a car is a process, not an overnight thing…
You are both correct!
People need to make wise decisions and take into account product longevity and quality versus cost and go from there. I shudder when I see eBay camber kit and bushing kits go for a fifth of the cost of a quality setup. A header or intake is one thing… But I can’t fathom putting your life on the line by rocking shitty stuff like suspension products that have little to no positive feedback from users.