Traction Problems Exiting Corners

When I’m autocrossing, I have problems with traction exiting corners. I suspect its my inside tire, but I don’t know yet. I need to have someone watch me or ride with me. Has anyone else had this problem?

Mods/Car Settings
HR Sport Springs
Tokico Illumina (1F/5R)
FUSB, RLTB, CPillar
195/60/14 Azenis (~38psiF/~35psiR)

EDIT: Oh yeah, let me add that it is pretty neutral right now. Maybe a little bit of oversteer at times.

open differential will do that to you. it’s a matter of driving…straightening up as much as you can while/after negotiating a turn before gunning the accelerator is what i might try to aim for. just my opinion of course.

Not that I autox, but when I’m racing through the twisties, I always try to maintain power from vertex until I’ve straightened out. In my motorcycle safetly class, we were told you only have a certain amount of traction, and you have to split it between acceleration, braking, and steering. I guess youre just over your 100%.

wow, back from the dead. I ended up taking 3rd place in STS class in the NWR Regional Championship. Yeah I put on a 19mm rear sway bar, got rid of some of the camber in the rear, upped the PSI in the front tires to 45 PSI, and changed my driving :slight_smile: I’m going to completely fix the problem this offseason with MORE CAMBER (w00t w00t) and 16" Azenis (w00t w00t again!). Maybe even fix it more with GC/Konis too. :wink:

:dance:

i thought i read somewhere that if you have adjustable shocks from autoX is best to have the rear softer than the front …or did i read wrong?

chsscott

what do you recommend now after this past season for the rear tires

im still debating what i should run

i am planning on running a larger front and rear sway (lookin into susp tech)
and the same size and type of tires as you

already have fusb
tokico blues/matchin springs 1in drop

and would like to get
cpillar/em racing 3 piece

should make a good rigid chassis

any input helps

congrats on the season

I had this problem too, my front swaybar disconnected on one side.

Don’t unless you want to run in some mod class, you can’t even run in SM with that.

What do you mean what do I reccomend for rear tires? Azenis? PSI?

For the PSI, it just depends. Sometimes I set it high, sometimes I set it low, it all just depends on the course. I like the back end to slide out a bit though, so I usually leave it low. If it’s a really fast, spin-happy course, I’ll raise the pressures.

if i left out the connecting piece (from cpillar to rusb) then i would think that i can still run in sts

is that true?

thanks

Sorry. No.

14.8. SUSPENSION

Strut bars are permitted with all types of suspension. Strut bars may be mounted only transversely across the car from upper right to upper left suspension mounting point and from lower right to lower left suspension mounting point. No other configuration is permitted. Additional holes may be drilled for mounting bolts. Only bolt-on attachment is permitted. Interior trim panels may be modified to allow installation of strut bars. Holes or slots may be no larger than necessary and may serve no other purpose. This does not permit any modifications to the frame or unibody beyond the allowed mounting holes.

Sorry guy.

so basically the cpillar bumps you outta sts

thanks man

For sway bars, you probably only need the rear for autox. I run the Progress bar(biggest one for our cars) and I love it.
-nino