Ok, my trailing arm bushings are shot and i need new ones cuz right now there’s a lot of knocking in the rear of the car.:bang:
I am planing to get the Energy Suspension Polyurethane Kit :excite: along with the trailing arm bushings and possibly engine mount inserts :rockon:. I was wondering if using silicone to fill the gaps temporarily could work until i order and receive the bushings? Has anyone did this before, i know it can be done with engine mounts but am to sure if its possible with the trailing arm bushings. :shrug:
Like that? 
We did this on our LeMons race car. All the normal bushings were replaced w/ the ES poly bushings, engine mounts and TA bushings were filled w/ window weld.
Definitely works as a temporary fix or a good method for the ultimate budget race car. On my personal vehicles and ones not limited by a $500 budget I would use only OEM, Mugen or spherical.
Yea some thing similar to that. Was told by a fellow G2 owner to use window weld and not silicone as its too weak.
Seems as if yours was done with the TA still on the car, correct me if am wrong?
Yeah, it was just a quick ghetto build for that race car. We went from a stock beat down DA to a pretty darn well tricked out LeMons racer within a very short period of time. One of the most fun experiences of my life (both the build and the race).
We did however add the window weld with the rear suspension weighted (after setting ride height).
The best solution with TA bushings is to remove the bushing entirely and then rotate the sleeve so that the bushing isn’t under a rotational strain at the car’s static ride height. This is about how it should be on a stock ride height car, but when we lower our cars the TA angles upwards and rotates this bushing.
Thanks for the advice man. So what happened to that project?
Photos from the Buildup Remember, this car was purchased AND prepped for under $500 (not including wheels, tires, brakes, and cage/safety). We didn’t cheat either, we actually came in under our $500 target.
Photos from our Race There aren’t many cause I was busy driving, wrenching…etc… It would have been really nice if we had a photographer friend who had wanted to document the race. But unfortunately the photographers in our group comprised 3 of the drivers 
Race was great started off not so with a 4-5min penalty on my father’s first stint out on track. So in the beginning we were low in the standings, but this is what we had expected. Only one of us had done any wheel to wheel racing (many years ago), 2 had been on a race track 1 time, and one of us had zero track experience. Car ended up being setup pretty well, it was definitely one of the fastest out there. Excitement was building as each time an updated standings list was posted we would climb higher and higher. We finished the day in 2nd place and on the lead lap!
Unfortunately day 2 didn’t go so well. We only lasted about 40min until some oil starvation issues caused some bottom end problems (slight understatement ).
I found a new longblock for $100 and we swapped that in a few months back, she fired right up. We’ve still got some cosmetic changes to do as well as some new modifications for front end protection. But other than that the car’s pretty much ready for our next event, which will be at ThunderHill just after Christmas.
I strongly recommend that everyone do a LeMons race if possible. It’ll change your outlook on cars and fun.
Where can you get this so-called window weld? Your local Home Depot, Orchard stores? Need a temp fix for my trailing arm bushings…
Yeah, we got ours at Home Depot. There are tons and tons of things there, so you gotta look through it all and see what will work. The stuff which was originally used and recommeneded is actually made by 3M and called “Window Weld” It’s made for gluing autoglass into cars.
You definitely don’t want your standard caulking for sinks and what not.
Hey Colin - that stuff you put in the RTA bushings, is it the same stuff that others recommend to fill the motor mounts with in leiu of using polyurethene bushings? Wouldn’t it be too stiff/rigid that it would bind the RTAs? On the other hand, if it’s pliable enough, can it be a more permanent fix for the RTA bushings instead of a temporary one?
I’m no expert on the mechanics and physics of these bushings. You can read about them all day long. Tons of people swear that you’re screwed if you get anything other than OEM or spherical. Others say the urethane replacements (like Prothane and ES) are perfectly fine. I think probably both sides have some validity - but more than likely it’s a specific real world thing more than anything else. Some setups work for some people’s situations, and not for others…
The basic setups which don’t allow for the bushing movement from the original design probably work for your avg joe and feel better than the crappy broken parts they replaced. But compare that to someone running a full race car and the downsides may be very apparenent…
I don’t think this stuff is at all too stiff. I don’t think it’s really any stiffer than the original rubber. But now the whole bushing is full of it.
This may work as a permanent fix for some people. But not me. I wouldn’t hesitate to do this to my personal vehicle. It’s going to be better than a broken bushing and it’s cheap… But IMO 99% of all DA’s out there are in a state where they require some serious attention to the suspension. The replacement of all the stock suspension bushings would be one of the very first tasks if I were to buy another DA. You can’t expect your fancy suspension bits like shocks and coilovers to function properly if you don’t back them up with the basics (good bushings, good tires, good alignment…).