I need to replace my trailing arm bushing here in the next month and have always been dreaming of getting the polyurethane bushings. I started looking into suspension stuff and started to see they had spherical bearings as well. I’ve tended to stay away from looking into suspension stuff because I want to go big or go home and mainly name brand (non-ebay), and I know that road can be spendy. I’ve looked at a lot of blogs but can’t seem to find the info besides “it’s a lot work” and “swapping out trailing arms” which is not really what I’m into. If I got this correct… BlOX has there version that is useable, but you have to reuse the old out rubber spacer, it doesn’t last very long, and is non-replaceable. PCI, or Password JDM, has an older version that worked (different housing design?, and can no longer get) but was the same as BLOX in reusing the old spacer and the bearing was replaceable? And as for the new design is not compatible with the 90-93’s, also has an offset to it? And overall PCI/Password JDM is a better bearing and can be replaceable.
It’s been forever since I looked into this but for some reason I remember that oem is the best option for the trailing arm bushing. Was recommended not to use urethane in that location on a street car but I can’t for the life of me remember why. I see hardrace has a stiffer rubber option as well.
The spherical bearing trailing arm bushings are AWESOME, but I wouldn’t use one on a street car that you drive often. They really tighten up the rear suspension but with it comes noise and reduction in ride quality. Additionally, as far as I know, no one currently makes an application for the DA. You can however use DC trailing arms (which is what I have on my car). Out of all the options out there I prefer the PCI because they use an “offset” design and because they’re a great company who I like to support.
My recommendation would be to use OEM, Hardrace, or Mugen rubber bushings. They aren’t the cheapest or the easiest to install but for anything but a race car those are the only options I’d consider. On a race car I’d only consider the sphericals.
The urethane ones which are solid are said to have binding problems. This is a hotly contested topic though and I’ve never found enough info to convince me 100% that either side is right. So in that instance I err on the side of not using them for fear that they might be prone to problems and there are other issues which are certain to NOT have that problem. The ONLY reasons I can see to use the Prothane or Energy Suspension urethane ones is the cost and ease of installation, but neither of those reasons is good enough for me.
I have been wondering the same thing on this, I have to replace mine as well, but from what I’ve seen most folks go with the hardrace bushings on these for a better ride.
[QUOTE=Colin;2333366]The spherical bearing trailing arm bushings are AWESOME, but I wouldn’t use one on a street car that you drive often. They really tighten up the rear suspension but with it comes noise and reduction in ride quality. Additionally, as far as I know, no one currently makes an application for the DA. You can however use DC trailing arms (which is what I have on my car). Out of all the options out there I prefer the PCI because they use an “offset” design and because they’re a great company who I like to support.
My recommendation would be to use OEM, Hardrace, or Mugen rubber bushings. They aren’t the cheapest or the easiest to install but for anything but a race car those are the only options I’d consider. On a race car I’d only consider the sphericals.[/QUOTE]
I might’ve came across your setup in a previous forum, something about the different trailing arms working but the only thing is that the brake line cable bolt holes don’t match up? Then I’m just throwing this out there, I thought I read something about a different trailing arms having a wider wheelbase so that is something to watch for?
I see that BLOX makes one? You just have to burn out the old OEM rubber and reuse the outer spacer because the diameter on the DA’s are bigger?
Yes, I have read all the pros and cons to spherical vs poly vs rubber/oem. I agree I can’t find any info to support the binding issues, maybe a small squeak here or there but nothing major. My “thing” is that if something breaks on my car is to replace it with a “race” or an upgraded performance part. I’m still in a toss up between the three. I want all these things, smooth ride quality, performance, I really like the idea of tighten up the back-end or anything for that matter. But I know I’m going to give up some qualities for others. I’m just trying to see how much of a pain in the a$$ it all is going to be and would it be worth it to wait another month or two for…lets say other trailing arms. I mean, I’m almost thinking of saying screw it and trying the sphericals on my “daily driver”. I have enough noise from my exhaust and my carpet being out of my car. If I don’t like them I can always go to poly or go back to OEM. I’m also trying to find a way to use the PCI’s since they are replaceable…cause if I end up liking them might be easier in the long run.
And you know, now that I start thinking about it. Since it is my daily driver and due to my work, I like having backup or the availability to work on something outside of the vehicle/equipment. I should ask you colin is it basically just a direct bolt up with the DC trailing arm? I might be able to do to more work than expected (bearings) while the trailing arm is out, then just bolt everything up when I am ready. And sorry I’m horrible when it comes to the da/dc/eg. that’s just a 1994 - 2001 Integra?
That sounds like something I may have written, not sure though. And yes, there’s a small difference which may be track width - I read that somewhere recently on Honda-Tech in the RR/AutoX forum. I’m not entirely sure what the exact difference is. All I do know is that when I first installed mine (10+yrs ago) the difference I noticed was that it changed my camber (made it more positive than it was with the DA arms).
[QUOTE=GSG2Teg;2333373]
I see that BLOX makes one? You just have to burn out the old OEM rubber and reuse the outer spacer because the diameter on the DA’s are bigger?[/quote]
Do you have any info on this? The method you’re talking about is something that is possible - if you search you’ll find people here have used EF trailing arm bushings in their DA trailing arms by reusing the outer metal sleeve. The new pushing gets pressed into the old sleeve, then the whole thing gets pressed into the trailing arm. Essentially it’s just a spacer, you end up with two outer sleeves instead of just one. Technically this shouldn’t be specific to Blox unless there’s something special you’re talking about that I’m not aware of (which is likely). This technique though applies to standard rubber bushings, due to the design of the sphericals I can’t promise it’ll work with them as well. It might, I just can’t confirm or deny as I’ve never personally seen it done with sphericals.
Yes, the trailing arms bolt right up, but there is a slight difference in brake lines as mentioned above. Yes, DC is the 3rd generation integra.
Here’s a link to BLOX, it mentions about halfway through about the spacer install. http://bloxracing.com/shop/index.php?route=product/product&path=63_105&product_id=227
I was starting to question things because if the same years and models apply to both BlOX and PCI products then why can’t it be done? But it looks as though PCI had changed designs? or I might’ve looked at a picture and didn’t notice the offset difference. Although there is this site that states it will fit the DA, but who knows. http://www.vexmotorsports.com/Password-JDM--Rear-Trailing-Arm-Spherical-Bearing-Kit--Acura-Integra-1990-2001_p_14351.html
Well, I guess you gotta trust that someone at Blox tested it with that method if they wrote it. That’s the first I’ve ever heard of that technique being used for these spherical designs. Again, that doesn’t mean it doesn’t work but only that there doesn’t seem to be any real world examples that we can see. I would assume that if it works for the Blox one that it’d work for the others too. I don’t think the offset design of the PCI would have an effect. As far as that second link, there’s a typo - in one place it says 90-01 and in another place it says 94-01. In general it’s tough to “absolutely” trust anything regarding chassis fitment of parts on retailers websites. Often they don’t have first hand experience and are only passing on the info from the manufacturer and often the manufacturer doesn’t even know what other cars it may or may not fit. You can do lots of cross referencing of part numbers and stuff (aftermarket and oem) which often helps but often there’s no sure bet without buying it and testing for yourself.
Agreed, I was thinking it was a typo on the top. And agreed as well with the second-hand/misinformation that is out there on different retailers. I actually just found a 95 left hand trailing arm for $54. And I believe the other side is just a couple towns away from me for $90 at a wrecking yard. Like you are saying with the cross reference though, I go to autopart websites sometimes and check things out they show a bunch of different trailing arm bushings for a 95 and only like one for a 90. However, the one for the 90 also fits in the 95, which makes me think they use the spacer technique if the 94-01 are different. That’s why I’m searching all over trying to see before I rip everything apart. Not like I don’t have access to other vehicles if something goes haywire. I just hate dealing with returns.
i have DC read trailing arms and i used these. but i have skunk2 LCA.
http://www.specialprojectsms.com/product/kss-104-complete-rear-suspension-kit/
[QUOTE=turboda4dr;2333396]i have DC read trailing arms and i used these. but i have skunk2 LCA.
http://www.specialprojectsms.com/product/kss-104-complete-rear-suspension-kit/[/QUOTE]
Correct me if I’m wrong but you have DC TA’s, Skunk2 LCA’s, and the Kiwi Camber & Toe Kit? I just came across these tonight. I like the looks of those LCA’s on that link but that triangle design scares me. Some how I’ve associated it with “knock offs”. Don’t get me wrong, I know other companies do the subcontract thing or however you call it, and there are still good products out there. I would like to get Skunk2 LCA’s eventually. I came across that website looking for Toe Kits since Skunk2 doesn’t carry them, or not that I’m aware of.
Thinking overall I am going to look for DC TA’s, clean them up/repaint, new hubs/bearings (since I’ve been rolling on broken TA’s for a really really long time), get the PCI Spherical, Skunk2 Camber Kit, and then still looking into that Toe Kit. I see Suspension Techniques has a set but they are spendy. But once I have everything I’m thinking it should be an easy swap over.
[QUOTE=turboda4dr;2333396]i have DC read trailing arms and i used these. but i have skunk2 LCA.
http://www.specialprojectsms.com/product/kss-104-complete-rear-suspension-kit/[/QUOTE]
Forgot to ask how you like your setup?
just put them in over winter lol. i will let you know how it feel when i get my car out.
I have the hard race ones they were 85$ on eBay very nice, noticed after I dropped my trailing arms my bushings were ripping apart still have to install them but they are nice quality and for the price I think it was only like 25$ more for the hardraxe compared to the Oem I normally buy Oem gaskets but for a bushing I would trust some kind of company preformance based that I can use for a aggressive approach but mine is also built for not only street use
Probably a dumb question, is there any difference between say a DC2 trailing arm and a DC4 trailing arm? Then say possibly any difference in the DB models and DC? Let’s say I have a DC4 left side and am only able to get a DB4 model right side? Basically I’m looking for the newest used trailing arms out there, I think I’ve found some 2001’s with DC4 in the VIN Number. I think I also found some 2001’s with DB4 in the VIN that is located a little closer to me. Or shall I be looking in the DC2 range?
I’ve searched on Acura’s Parts List and Diagrams, and it shows like 94-95 trailing arms being one set of numbers and 96-01 being another number. I actually said screw it and purchased a left side rear trailing arm from a 95 Integra. $25 for the arm (disc brake included, looks a little rusty on the disc but I don’t think I’ll be using it), $28 on shipping. Depending on how the condition is I might be just looking for the right side from the same year or looking into those newer modeled ones. So that’s why I ask. I might be able to find a 95 DB trailing arm instead of DC. Even though I think everything is the same, just not sure when you get into the GSR/Type-R Models and plus with that part number switch, which I’ve read could be a material change, or something just minor. Not to mention some of these places online want $175 for one arm and $200 on shipping when I’m not even 100 miles away.
i’m pretty sure all 94-01 DC trailing arm are the same. but don’t quote me on that.
I’ve had the energy black bushings in mine for 4 years and no issues, I daily my car and the rear does feel improved by 20% over oem. I did notice a big difference in three rear wheels on turns when I upgraded to the rear asr brace and even more with the rear sway bar 25mm.
That ASR Brace looks soo nice! I like the Beaks attachment as well but I’m hoping the Skunk2 would fit. I’m thinking the overall profile wouldn’t be sticking out so far under the car for lowering purposes in the future. I’m like a week or two away from ordering a full set of bushings. I just got my Skunk2 Front Upper Control Arms in last week.