When i turn the key on i get 5 quick blinks like
Then i get 2 long and 3 fast
Then 2 long 2 fast
and i keeps repeating it self… i have gone to teg tips and looked at the ecu code and i looked in my book and i cant seem to figure it out…
Please give me a hand if you can…
Thanks
that means you’re getting 3 codes.
code 5 (5 short flashes)
code 23 (2 long, 3 short)
code 22 (2 long, 2 short)
courtesty BR’s writeup in the teg tips:
code 5: MAP sensor
code 23: vtec malfunction
code 22: knock sensor
judging by the does it looks to me like you didn’t hook up the vtec solenoid and vtec pressure switch wires (3 total) or the knock sensor wire properly. And maybe the map sensor is unplugged? or faulty?
Hey thanks a lot for the help i just got the motor in and running good a couple weeks back and i didnt have the vtec hooked up properly then i hooked it up right but never reset the ecu. (vtec works good… Real good !!) Would that code lock it self in until i reset the ecu?
I jsut went out and reset the ecu and am letting it idle but after i removed the back up fuse then turned the key there were no codes. so maybe i just needed to reset it…
Thanks for all the help though.
see if that helps
Were is the location of the knock sensor??
Sorry for the dumb question my book doesnt go into any detail…
Thanks
ok i reset the ecu as the teg tips said and the map sensor and the knock sensor warnings went away now all i have is vtec malfunction.
I have driven it a few times and the vtec doesnt seem to be malfunctioning at all kicks in good and hard…
Is there any difference in 1st gen and 2nd gen Vtec solenoids, or regulators?
When i got the car it had already been converted to b16a2 and the vtec jumper wire has 1 green and white going to solenoid and a yellow? and black wire going to pressure switch the black one i have going to ground. IS this right?
in the same loom of wires there is one wire that seems to go nowhere which is a red wire with a green end on it looks same as the vtec pressure wire end but only has one wire coming thru instead of 2??
there are 3 wires for vtec.
The first is for the vtec solenoid valve. Its a single wire and connects to the single pin connector on the forward most part of the vtec solenoid. this wire needs to connect to A8 on the ecu.
The other 2 wires come off of the vtec pressure switch. The black wire just needs to be grounded. In stock form it runs to the ecu, but you can ground it elsewhere if you choose. A couple members, including myself simply grounded it to the thermostat housing. The 2nd wire blu/blk (its blu/blk on obd1 cars, i’m not sure about obd0 cars) and goes to B5 on the ecu.
now, about that extra wire. its a red wire with a green plug on the end? huh, i can’t think of what that would be, but i’m more familiar w/ obd1 setups, so… does everything else seem to be plugged in?
Everything else is plugged in as it should be…
I talked to you last week about differences between obd0 and obd1. and i still cant quite grasp it. from what i here there are different plug colors and the injector plugs are bigger then the obd0. i have all grey plugs for vtec and and injectors and such…
i havent opened up the ecu yet but on the outside it has
da6 1022000, b16a 1033562, SF, and BKN written on it. it didnt seem like that explained much. In the ecu were would i find out if it is obd0 or obd1. because like i said the motor that was in it when i got it was a 2nd gen b16a that was proffesionaly installed and converted…
On the driver side by the fender next to the brake booster there is a big grey plug that is capped off doesnt go to anything. any ideas on that?
Thanks
Originally posted by Mk1shitrocket
[B]Everything else is plugged in as it should be…
I talked to you last week about differences between obd0 and obd1. and i still cant quite grasp it. from what i here there are different plug colors and the injector plugs are bigger then the obd0. i have all grey plugs for vtec and and injectors and such…
i havent opened up the ecu yet but on the outside it has
da6 1022000, b16a 1033562, SF, and BKN written on it. it didnt seem like that explained much. In the ecu were would i find out if it is obd0 or obd1. because like i said the motor that was in it when i got it was a 2nd gen b16a that was proffesionaly installed and converted…
On the driver side by the fender next to the brake booster there is a big grey plug that is capped off doesnt go to anything. any ideas on that?
Thanks [/B]
you’re running all gray plugs? well, if you’re running obd1 (gray plugs) then the pin outs i gave you are wrong. Instead of A8 it should be A4, and instead of B5 it should be D6.
those numbers you gave me did’nt help at all in determining the ecu. Look again, you should see something like “pr3” “pw0” “p61” “p28” or “p72”. the pr3 and pw0 are obd0 ecu’s, the others are obd1. Don’t look on the inside to tell, just read what’s written on it. Also, look at the plugs that plug into the ecu…what color are they? and is there any type of jumper harness hooked up to the ecu?
That plug thats capped off is supposed to be there. The wires from it lead to the injectors. If you had obd0 injectors this plug would be replaced by an injector resistor box.
ok… well the ecu is PR3 which is obd0, but the injectors and **** must be obd1. the red wire with the green end stops and is cut off and taped by the ecu… so my questions are answered… thanks for the help…
Now what can i do to the obd0 Ecu for upgrades(chips) and is the obd1 really that much better?
Originally posted by Mk1shitrocket
[B]ok… well the ecu is PR3 which is obd0, but the injectors and **** must be obd1. the red wire with the green end stops and is cut off and taped by the ecu… so my questions are answered… thanks for the help…
Now what can i do to the obd0 Ecu for upgrades(chips) and is the obd1 really that much better? [/B]
looks like you’ve got an obd0 setup, not an obd1 setup. the injectors are obd1…but that doesn’t really change anything. if the ecu is obd0 then the distributor is also obd0.
obd1 is a better system, but for most people its not worth it to convert. The conversion costs money, and typically its more cost effective to spend that $$ elsewhere on the motor.
there are many chips available for obd0. check out www.jdmhondaparts.com and www.hyperducktuning.com just to name a couple.