Troubleshooting: Bad:Transmission Diff, Aftermarket Axles or Wheel Hub??

Hey guys, I need some help to pin pointing my problem. I have a front suspension shake for almost a year now. I am riding on F2 Type 2 coil overs. I noticed that the driver side would clunk when I would go over a pot hole. I decided to check it out before painting the car. I took the coil-over off, (driver side) disassembled, it was indeed no good. Just my Luck that my “One Year Warranty” expired two months ago.

Meanwhile, my dad noticed that the axle on the driver side was no good as well. We changed that, then I started to get some noise on the driver side wheel hub. I noticed it so I tested it by putting the car on jack stands. Axle on the driver side looked good, wheel bearing seemed good, I had changed them both about a year ago (Koyo). It seemed weird that they would be no good so soon.

I decided to go ahead and switch the wheel hub on the driver side to test. After, installing the wheel hub from another DA, the noise went away. Then, I took my original wheel hub to have a new wheel bearing pressed in. Problem solved, the whining noise went away.

Same day, I test drove the car and I had a bad vibration. I was blaming the axle, my dad insisted it was not. So, I checked my mounts, the back one was shot. I changed all mounts. All OEM Honda parts for the mounts. Since, I was gonna change the back mount. I decided to change my clutch since it was not gripping anymore.

I had someone change my clutch and he failed to inspect the spring and fork on the transmission. Which led to breaking the ear on the throw out bearing. Inspection of the spring and fork should ALWAYS be done when changing your clutch. This mistake cost me to buy a new pressure plate. This caused my clutch engagement to feel like it was jerking when switching gear while driving.

So I bought a NEW clutch set, got it installed at a shop. I thought that would be the end of that and move on to paint the DA. I went to the shop and test drove it. I had a violent vibration when I drove on the street on first, second or third. It is intensely violent when I turn to the right. Also, when I dip passing a pot hole or street speed bump. Came right back to the shop, had the car put on the lift. They found that my passenger side axle had wobble and it had to be changed. I went home and a week later I got a new aftermarket axle from a small autoparts store. Test drove the car same dam problem. My dad then insisted that it had to be the transmission differential.

I took the car to a transmission shop and the dude opened it up. He took some pictures of my opened trans and showed them to me. He said he took it apart to inspect the diff, said it was fine. He changed the input shaft bearing and a bearing on the reverse arm. He cleaned, and mounted the trans back on and test drove it. Same Shit, problem not solved, violent vibration.

Now I am stuck on this, I have inspected both side of the axles, especially the right side. I feel the vibration really violent when I turn to the right. I inspected all other possibilities, wheel bearing, bushings and changed tie rods. Now I am going to switch wheel hub and switch the front stock shocks hoping this will solve. If this does not solve the problem, it has to be the axle on the right side.

I am really aiming towards Raxles, this will cost me $200 each (since I dont have OEM cores) plus $80 for shipping to Los Angeles. They are in Florida, shipping will cost me $50 each or $80 for both to ship, if I have a problem.

I have read many post about axle headaches and nightmare. Can anyone chime in, if you had a very similar problem. My dad still insists that its the trans diff and that the dude at the trans shop never opened the trans. If I switch wheel hub, stock shocks and Raxles I guess my dad was right. Crossing my fingers…

i’m having the same issues… anyone?

I got both front wheel hubs. I will swap out the right side and swap out the f2 coilovers with stock shocks, lets see if that will work. If it does not work then it will definitely be the axles. I was able to get a pair of OEM Axels as well. So I will get those rebuilt locally or ship them over the Marty at Raxles. They only take OEM axle in exchange. With OEM Axle exchange, Raxle will cost 150.00 each. Ouch, pricey but I am a will to pay to get rid of this headache…will check back.

I had an issue similar, but when I switched out the half shaft it seems to cure 80% of the vibrations. Maybe have a look at it and see if it is still in good working order?

Also how low are you on the coils? Could something be rubbing or hitting the top A arm? And is you front torque mount still in good condition?

I switched my half shaft thinking that would solvee the problem. I also made sur it was a manulas half shaft, which should read SK7-J. My car is not low as hell. It is a deffinitely a suspension problem. I will swap out the coils with stock shocks…

2 things I’d ask… how are your bushings? and have you had the car aligned at all recently?

off balance wheels can also cause bad vibration… mis adjusted radius arms could cause bad vibrartion… things to consider :slight_smile:

[QUOTE=djzachtyler;2286979]2 things I’d ask… how are your bushings? and have you had the car aligned at all recently?

off balance wheels can also cause bad vibration… mis adjusted radius arms could cause bad vibrartion… things to consider :)[/QUOTE]

I had abit of a shake on mine recently, i had it checked out and my radius rod and bushing were no good, but also my hub bearing was no good as well. i got it back and the shake is not as bad anymore. also changing sway bar bushing and endlinks since mine are also shot, so hopefully that well totatlly eliminate any shake at all now.

The tie-rods were changed by the transmission shop, still no change. I had recently changed both wheel bearings, almost a year ago. I really doubted that it was that but it was worth a shot. I did alot of homework on this subject and read online that sometimes things can go wrong if the wheel bearings are press in wrong. Not sure how to break this down to you because I really didn’t understand the cause of this. Some dude had a post about how the marks or groove indicated foul play. I had previously replaced my front sway bar bushings and end-links ( energy suspension).

The follow up: We switched out the passenger side wheel hub and both front stock shocks which shock are OEM SK8. The stock shock install included the forks of the same car. I did not swap out my driver side wheel hub from donor, only stock shocks. Well, happy as hell to say violent vibration is gone. I still a slight vibration but I blame that on my car having a lot of negative toe in. The inside of my tires are really worn because of this. On Monday I will put back the F2 coil overs and test drive it, if it continues then I have my answer. If not then it will be the passenger side wheel hub.

If you are using parts store axles, I can almost guarantee this is the problem. Go Raxles and never look back.

any updates yet?

ive heard the same issue on a da when the front lower control arm was slightly bent, almost couldnt notice it but we cought it.
also ive notice this mostly happens to 90-91 tegs with the same year tranny. you might want to shop around for a newer 92-93 cable trany for like $200.
I had a 92 ls on my 91 itr swap and it drove perfect, until I swapped it out for a 91 y1 lsd trany.
soon as I dropped the jacks and took it out it was never the same. same axles and everyrhing, it shook and viberated and got worse. after literally new suspension and bushings and rebuilt tranny and lsd it still shook.
swapped my newer 92 ls tranny and probleme solved. no leaks or drips, viberations.

I have not had a chance to swap in my original wheel hub. I want to start there. I have a feeling that it will be the wheel hub. I think it will be the wheel bearing that was installed wrong somehow. I remember I had the same issue on the other side long ago. I need to write that type of stuff down, I honestly forget sometimes.

Anyway, I will swap in my Original Hub and if it happens again then thats it. Then, I will swap back my F2 coil overs. I decided to wait because now I took notice that my driver side axle is clicking. I want to get my hands on the axle and do everything at once. I am tired of changing out axles out every year or sooner. I will definitely keep you posted. Have any of your guys ever tried “Insane Shaft”? They are in Santa Fe Springs, here in Cali. I went online and found a price from a third party seller. Price quote: $329.00 for the pair. According to the web site: “Ideal for street build, road race, and drag race applications - Proven 600HP”…

They are local, I want to check them out. I will call them tomorrow and find out the details. Raxles, I hear is really great. However, if my trade-in axles are good. It will cost me $425.00, If not it will cost $515.00. In addition, If I have an issue with the Raxle in the future it will cost $50.00 for shipping. So, I want to check out my options. Anyone ever installed “Insane Shaft” Axles on your DA?

[QUOTE=da6xsi06;2287876]ive heard the same issue on a da when the front lower control arm was slightly bent, almost couldnt notice it but we cought it.
also ive notice this mostly happens to 90-91 tegs with the same year tranny. you might want to shop around for a newer 92-93 cable trany for like $200.
I had a 92 ls on my 91 itr swap and it drove perfect, until I swapped it out for a 91 y1 lsd trany.
soon as I dropped the jacks and took it out it was never the same. same axles and everyrhing, it shook and viberated and got worse. after literally new suspension and bushings and rebuilt tranny and lsd it still shook.
swapped my newer 92 ls tranny and probleme solved. no leaks or drips, viberations.[/QUOTE]

How were you guys able to determine that the lower control arm was bent? I have one from the car which I got the donor wheel hub from. I did the same thing, changed all possible minor things after changing all the most important. Still continued to shake, so I took the car to get the trans dropped and opened for inspection. Everything was fine, installed and still continued to shake. Hey, I thought about getting a y1 trans when I thought it was my trans. I thought I would upgrade, might as well right? However, the Y1 is no good for daily driving. If the traction on one side gives out, will that cause vibration on a LSD? I always wondered that.

you have to take it off and compare it side by side closely.
you also have to know how to install them. you dont tighten the inner bolt until the car is flat on the ground on all 4 corners.
you dont really loose traction on either side when you have lsd with the y1. if a axle inner joint pops out of the diff the tranny would stop working. car would stop like if the tranny was broken.
I had a axle slip out at a stop and ended up towing the car home. soon after inspecting the tranny I noticed a leak in fluid and the passanger side inner joint had popped out.
slipped it back in till the oring clicked, topped off fluid and took the car back out.

Follow UP: First, I want to say that the reason which took me so long to finish the thread was because I waited for my axles to come in from UPS. After putting on stock shocks and another wheel hub from another DA. The violent vibration which was felt more intense when turning right. Was minimized when I switch stock shocks and wheel hub. I only felt it when the car would dip over something like a speed bump, take off or switching gears at low speed.

I switched back in the original wheel hub which I had on there before and my F2 coil overs. Along with my new Raxles, problem solved!! Unbelievable, I went through all that bull and wasted time. I should have listened and got bought the Raxles and be done with it.

raxles it is! so $515 down the drain lol