Last few times I opened the hatch, I had a really difficult time getting it to close and lock, as it would just pop back open. Had to mess with the switch by the seat a bit and it would finally close. Generally, I’d avoid opening my trunk at all costs.
Well, today I had to and now my hatch is stuck open. I’ve tried feeding the cable back through the braided hose its connected to, no go. I’ve messed with (as much of the lock as I can) and attempted to cut the line but can’t because all I have are wire cutters.
I attempted to remove the three screws holding the locking mechanism in place and all I could really do is strip them. Absolutely nothing I could do to spin them without stripping them.
I’ve pushed the latch into the lowest possible position with a screwdriver, it just springs open. I’ve tried holding it closed and fiddling with the key in the lock which also does nothing.
I’ve tried tugging on the metal rod connecting the hatch lock cylinder to pull it into the locked position but it wont budge.
Any ideas? I’ve got no alarm protection, don’t feel overly safe with my stereo in there and the pressure thump when the hatch bobs from going over bumps is gonna shatter my eardrums.
It appears to be the lock itself. I tried simulating the action of the striker (the U shaped bit on the hatch itself is the striker, right?) with a screwdriver by pushing the lever …thingy… down as far as it’d go and holding it there, then messing with the release cable/lock/everything I could think of but the minute I pulled the screwdriver it’d spring back open.
After some looking around, I tried a square head bit… I got a nice grip on a driver and no matter how hard I twisted, it wouldn’t budge…
…so I busted out a socket wrench and jury rigged a square bit to it, got a nice firm grip on the screw head, gave it a good shove and …stripped the head.
I guess I’m going to try a Grabit or similar extractor and if that fails, I guess I’ll try and track down a drill…
If and when I get these suckers out, I’m gonna swap them for some good old nuts and bolts. Screws are for chumps.
ur line is prolly binded. pushing that line inside the braided hose by hand wasn’t gonna get u anywhere. i suggest investing into some screwdrivers, not cheap ones, maybe some matco ones or something. those do work a lot better than crap ones, and well the ones that do say otherwise, prolly haven’t used a matco screwdriver for those tough annoying screws b4. and bolt cutters/wire cutters, something strong enough to cut the line. if u can remove it from both ends then great do that. if u do decide to cut it, then try cutting near the locking mecanism, cuz if there’s a bind u’ll be past it.
the locking mechanism is prolly still fine, not sure with all the fiddling around u did tho. i suggest u try to put the the latch and all that in its original position, you’ll have to re-align it tho. don’t put wd-40… that attracts dust and gets kinda messy. use some white lithium grease, they sell it at local auto parts stores n stuff.
i’m pretty positive that its that line. but i could be wrong tho
oh and regarding removing those stripped screws. just invest on some screw extractors. i’m pretty sure u gotta use them on a drill anyways, i think there are diff. sizes and all. if ur gonna use a drill, u have a risk of jacking up the threads… then u’ll have to drill the hole bigger, then tap it, not to mention u’ll have to buy some taps for it, then some oversized bolts/screws… if it doesn’t have to come off then don’t bother.
Woohoo! After a lot of twisting I managed to cut the braided wire with a crimping tool (if its not obvious by now, I don’t have a lot of tools >.>) and she locks up. The trunk open light wouldn’t turn off, so I disconnected it. I imagine I need to realign the lock but it can wait awhile, at least my precious baby is secure again.
i had a similar experience i even replaced the cable and the lock and when the cable was connected the hatch would not close…so i just unhooked the cable and the latch works great…so no popping my hatch from the inside now
Well, I’m gonna need more than an impact driver to get at least one of the screws out now >.>
Can’t say I’ve ever even heard of an impact driver (I’m a newb, I know >.>)
I’m assuming I need an impact driver to loosen the screws on the striker in the door frame to adjust it so I don’t have to slam my passenger door anymore too, eh?
92db2:
Your sub(s)/amp(s) (if you have 'em) are safer that way anyway
An impact driver is basically an over sized spring loaded screwdriver. The are usually about the thickness of an axel shaft. They come with an assortment of Philips bits you would then find the right bit for you screw loaded into the tool and hit the head of it with a hammer. If you go to Autozone then can rent the tool out to you.
PS: this can also be used on those pain in the ass screws that hold down the brake rotor.
