Swapping out my b18a1 from my 90 gs DB1 (manual) with the high comp b20b…Currently has a pr4 ecu. I plan on swapping everything out from the B18 such as the ITB, Distributor, PS, Crank Pulley, etc onto the B20 for the sake of compatibility.
Should I retain my pr4 ecu and have it chipped/tuned by phearable to have the car running properly/smoothly or consider going OBD1 and swap in a p75?
I’m unsure which is a more advantageous route and some help would be grateful. Thank you!
A Phearable chip will get you up and running, no doubt about that…
But if you are looking to get the car ‘running properly’, then you should get the car TUNED. Phearable/Xenocron/etc can only get your setup in the ball-park of where it needs to be. No matter how good a tuner is, a chip/basemap will only be a starting point in comparison to where your ecu settings SHOULD be.
Any more input on this? I’m shooting for the same swap and am in the same thinking. On one hand I don’t see why you couldn’t run a p75 w/a b20 basemap (which ultimately would put a stock b20 map on there, which is all your looking for) and it run great, or use a fpr for the PR4 and using your best judgement for compensating.
I’ve been thinking about going for the P75 with a B20 base, and using a wideband to make sure its where it is safely running. Overkill on a stock motor? Maybe… but would that be worth it rather than driving to a reputable tuner, which nowadays aren’t exactly easy to find in most areas, and pay a bunch of money for him to adjust little to nothing. In my mind its worth it, but I can’t find any evidence to back up a reason to persuade me either way!
(This all makes me sound like a jerk, and that’s not my intent! I just want some more confidence in everyones results)
[QUOTE=Boostpyro90;2231170]
I’ve been thinking about going for the P75 with a B20 base, and using a wideband to make sure its where it is safely running. [/QUOTE]
That is, in actuality, what should be done. As long as its a map created by someone who knows what he’s doing, there should be no need to worry.
Oh my gosh, was that positive advice!? Wow, I feel like I’m making a forward step here!
Now if I did this (chipped p75 w/wideband and fpr), the rule of thumb is 14.7:1 a/f ratio (which would be ideal to get from the basetune, but I guess could be finetuned w/the fpr). A mag I was just reading suggested that 14.7 might be too lean at WOT? Where they just implying that at higher rpms the fuel leans out?
Either way, would the 14.7 be a good ratio to be at? What would be a safe range on a stock motor with pump gas?
(i realize this is way too deep into this subject for such a basic setup, but I want a little more insight into this, as I don’t have experience in tuning)
Using an FPR to get rid of a lean spot at a certain RPM, is going to make rich spots elsewhere… while if the car is actually tuned, each RPM will be dialed in.
A basemap should get you right in the ballpark of a complete burn… the maps i and my friends have gotten from Phearable have seemed fine. My brothers plugs were a very nice dark-brown after using their map on his build. We didnt check it with a wideband, but just eyeing the plugs made me feel worlds better about using said map.
It sounds like you should speak with an actual tuner, be it someone local or Xenocron/Phearable. Its a stock motor… you’ll be nit-picking over fractions of an A/F ratio and likely not something that is putting the health of your motor in jeopardy.
[QUOTE=Boostpyro90;2231203]Oh my gosh, was that positive advice!? Wow, I feel like I’m making a forward step here!
Now if I did this (chipped p75 w/wideband and fpr), the rule of thumb is 14.7:1 a/f ratio (which would be ideal to get from the basetune, but I guess could be finetuned w/the fpr). A mag I was just reading suggested that 14.7 might be too lean at WOT? Where they just implying that at higher rpms the fuel leans out?
Either way, would the 14.7 be a good ratio to be at? What would be a safe range on a stock motor with pump gas?
(i realize this is way too deep into this subject for such a basic setup, but I want a little more insight into this, as I don’t have experience in tuning)[/QUOTE]
14.7 is ideal for cuising/best emission and IS way to lean for WOT. 13.5 for NA/12.5 boosted are the ratios you want to shoot for. From the sound of it. I would recomend you pay some one to tune your car. there is a very steep learning curve for tuning and the price you pay for making slight mistakes is expensive and time comsuming.
if you really want to pursue this and DIY. first thing to consider is. Do you ever plan on going vtec in the future? if so a vtec p28 or p75 would be best. The pr4 would work but will take a few extra components in order to get the vtec to work. if your staying with the b20 for a while then a PR4 will work fine for you.
next is decide what tuning system you want to use. the are pleanty of options there. hondata, neptune,ect,ect. time to doo some research decide which is better supported in your area and sounds best too you.
I would also recomend you spend some time reading(lots of reading). This book has tons of info. think ive read most of it 5+ times, I highly recomend it.
[QUOTE=unified112;2265478]You ‘can’ use a stock ecu, but you’ll still gain power and the motor will perform better with a tune.
Think about it, you’re not running the motor on its factory ecu.[/QUOTE]
Exactly why I want to get a tune. It runs fine, yes, but with proper specs it will run that much better.
So what variables make an ECU able to be chipped and tuned? I just have the stock OBD0 1.8 ecu, can that be chipped? Why do people run p75? what car is it from? Where can I find good/correct info on all this?