b4 i get to far in depth lemme say these little things to help everyone that is learning (i am still learning) understand nitrous better…
How does nitrous work?
Nitrous oxide is made up of 2 parts nitrogen and one part oxygen (36% oxygen by weight). During the combustion process in an engine, at about 572 degrees F, nitrous breaks down and releases oxygen. This extra oxygen creates additional power by allowing more fuel to be burned. Nitrogen acts to buffer, or dampen the increased cylinder pressures helping to control the combustion process. Nitrous also has a tremendous “intercooling” effect by reducing intake charge temperatures by 60 to 75 degrees F.
Which one is better, a “wet” or “dry” kit?
It all depends on the application. A “wet” kit is ideal for both normally aspirated applications as well as forced induction applications. It can require a little bit more installation time than a “dry” kit, but is easier to tune if greater than stock HP settings are to be experimented with. A “dry” kit is excellent for normally aspirated combinations that have a return style fuel system. They are very easy to install and are a great “first time” nitrous system. It is not recommended that “dry” systems be used on forced induction engines.
and this is where i am going to start… on a dry nitrous setup mostly u should only run up to a 75 shot and not over… the reason why is… U have no fuel added for this setup!!! dont even try… it would be stupid! anyways… back to what i was saying… on a dry kit u have no added fuel so when u “spray” as we call it u arent adding any fuel so therefore it is unsafe to go past a limit of fuel to air ratio… in retrospect, this would make u go lean going above those settings… but myself, i like Wet Kits… U r adding fuel and can go up to a 125 shot from what i have seen built honda motors take on something other than a direct port setup… so that being said, here is where i will break it down and get in the info i want to…
on a Wet nitrous kit u are adding fuel to nitrous instead of A) the computer compensating… or B) u doing it manually… the kit, or “nozzle” is doing it for you… now what this does is optimize fuel to air ratio by adding what else, fuel and somewhat air… this allows the engine to take more with out damage because of the added fuel… now b4 i used to love my dry nitrous kit from ZEX. the reason why was ecause u had that neat little box and u could hook up the Vac line to the FPR and basically increase Fuel pressure with more vac and basically make the FPR think it is seing boosted conditions and increase fuel. Cause nitrous is a form of FI then u must need more fuel, most of the time anyways, that or your engine will like it more in FI moments anyways, for a better A/F ratio. Kk, so now that we have talked of the ZEX the reason i liked it as because i couldn`t tune my car, the reason why, no extra fuel after spraying because i was only injecting nitrous and not fuel. So some good nice ass fuel managment was out of the question for me, i went from I/H/E and a Straight pipe/Test pipe with the nitrous jet at a 65 and the fuel jet (yes, even though it is a dry kit, it uses a fuel jet to regulate the “bosst” that the FPR sees to corespond with how much nitrous is getting used) at a 75 shot, the reason why was because i thought i was injecting more fuel. wrong!
even though ZEX claims to be the “safer” kit they do really baby there stuff and that is why it is “safer”… what i mean is, NX, NOs and all the other kits that are alike rate at the wheels for HP, and the ZEX kit is rated at the flywheel. That blows because that mans using a ZEX kit u will make less power than a NX kit or other, doesnt sound right does it? ok then, so again, i went from that setup to a NX wet kit, the reason why i like it. i can finally use some bomb ass computer softeware to tune and still use my nitrous because i am injecting fuel and nitrous now, so technically my A/F ratio should be the same all the way accross.. so this is what i did.. i had my new nitrous kit installed and hit the dyno, i tuned with my SAFC for a little it and pulled a couple ponies and some better MPG, which is awsome, cause with the rising gas prices tuning may actually be in mind for more people to squeeze out a couple reliable HP and more MPG.. so that being said... i tuned and got a nice A/F and then i started thinking, so my mind was racing and i hit my work (AutoZone) and picked up some Bosch super plugs (DO NOT USE PLATS.!!!) anyways, put em in and was happy to see what kind of A/Fs i woul see with nitrous, so i made the run… and was psyched when i found out the results, awsome air/fuel ratio, this thing rocled i mean, perfect, and even though i was at 60 HP jets i felt comfortable using this kit, it made me more at ease knowing that i was using fuel also…
and some more little tips:
dont hit the rev limiter when spraying!
dont use a torch to heat up the bottle!
closing the gap on some plugs might help if u r worried of detonation
DONT USE PLAT PLUGS!
use iridium or reulars
DUH! Wet is better than Dry!
mount the bottle with a bottle heater or if not get a gym bag like i did and mount the brackets inside that, when i close the bag i have A) a warm spot to get aswome bottle pressure, and B) noone can see the magic vanishing bottle!
spray between 850-1000psi bottle pressure
dont use any type of Octane Booster
only use 91 gas
and no matter what anyone says, dont mount it infront of ur passenger seat, no protection, u dont believe me, i have seen 2 white people do it!
make sure u are mechanically sound (stock timing or below and everything runs smooth)
use a WOT switch or make sure u r in gear and at ull throttle b4 u spray
and i guess last but not least, and take this as a friend to a friend, dont bump up your jets to impress people… i know people out here that do it for power and all thery do is break shit, then also real quick.
u wanna stray away from the fuel cut-off by about 300 RPM at least!! u hit that by by, and one more thing…
i have sprayed first gear many times in races, make sure u have A) tracion) and B) a good diaper on, but no seriously, traction, and also when u hit that shit it is ganna feel weird as hell because the spray adds u know, for me 65 HP wherever i hit the button, i do like idling roll-ons with my friends where u roll at like 3 MPH with just the clutch out and when u honk 3 times u hit the throttle, (like a regualr drag race but a minimal roll for traction) … i hit it at 3k and of course i have tracion but hitting it in first gear at 3k make me queezy, its like this, say at 3k you make u know, ill throw a number, 80hp, so u hit it at 3k infirst gear, whats ganna happen, with me i go from 80hp or so, or whatever plus 65hp… 145HP, thats past what my car makes at the crank… thats a lot… and in such a short gear going from 79HP one second to 145hp in the next is crazy, itll take time getting used to but just feel it out, what helps is really sticky tires… cause we all know, it is like if ur driving in the rain or with a dead clutch… u hammer it in first u dont go anywhere but that rev limiter sure does come up a bizzilian times faster than if u had traction and that means by-by motor… later- have a good night guys…