im starting to get bored of my type R with the basic mods ie. skunk2 catback/greddy header/aem intake/skunk throttle so this is what i got planned so far to add.
Skunk2 camshafts
skunk2 valves+retainers
skunk2 camgears
apr headstuds
new headgasket
Im jw if anyone has anymore mods that would make a good difference besides turbo lol and what are the Type R camshafts and camgears worth to sell?
I’m not a big fan of Skunk2 valve train. Seat pressures are really high and put unnecessary stress on the valve seats, cam lobes, and timing belts. But cams and valve springs would definitely bring the B18C5 to life. Skunk2 cams are fine, but I would use Omni Power snap fit springs and retainers (Blox are identical). The snap fit design greatly reduces if not eliminates the galling effects on the titanium retainers (better reliability). I’m about to remove my Toda springs and Crower ti-nitrated titanium retainers and replace them with the Omni springs and retainers. Be sure to upgrade your timing belt with a reinforced one (Toda, Greddy).
You could sell your stock ITR cams with valve springs for around $400 quickly if they are in good condition. Cams alone for about $300.
before you get into cams and so forth, please realize that a 3" intake, bigger header, hiflow catalytic, and tuned hondata would give you perhaps a 5-10% increase in hp across the ENTIRE power band, before even opening the motor up.
what i’m trying to tell you is that so far although your mods are good, you haven’t maximized the potential for your motor on the outside before going inside, make sense?
thus if you look inside now, although you might see some gains, you will NOT max the potential of your internal mods.
if you are paying someone for labor at this point, your valvetrain, camshaft, and headgasket mod will prolly cost you around $1000. just keep that in mind before you dig in. Those ITR camshafts are pretty good. they just need a good tune. you might also just upgrade to a BC3+ or sk2 stg1, then you dont have to upgrade valvetrain, but will notice perhaps 8-10whp over ITR cams above 7500 rpm when tuned
improve spark and fuel .
my greddy header has a 2.5" outlet and i have the highflow cat and already have the hondatas so im just gunna do a few internals i guess and im going to look into them valves/retaners
what kind of gains should i see out of skunk2 stage 2 camshafts,skunk2 camgears and blox valves and retianers?
i dont know why you guys change the headers and throttle body for aftemarket ones . there is no gains in doing this on a type r motor . the headers and the throttle body are near perfect .
my ITR throttle was cracked all the way through and as for header i had it lying around so i used it lol
well ill take your type r header off your hands 
… and in your case it was needed to get a new throttle body so your an exception …lol
sorry i disagree, depending on your application, an ITR throttle body and header might be perfect, but not all.
throw a toda header on your car, and i can pretty much guarantee a 5whp increase all over the powerband. BTW, the only itr header that is decent is the 4-1 2.5" 98+ JDM version. the USDM ones came with the 2.25" manifold, not an equal length tube header
right now i have an aem short ram, a test pipe, catback and a dc sports header, untuned. If i threw ITR cams in it and had it tuned with Crome (not me tuning it, somebody experienced with it would I feel a noticable power gain?
i agree that the 62mm piece is good, even though a 68mm will probably work better. but to say that the itr exhaust manifold is near perfect is absolutely incorrect. and itr/ctr cams will net more usable power than say s2s1/s2s2’s in ur set up. and beware of those s2 tb’s. they are engine killers (literally)
s2 tbs are engine killers? how? i just put a 66mm on my car and now i’m scared.
http://www.honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=2241037
http://www.honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=2304717&page=2
just to list a few. theres probably 3-4 more people on HT who’ve lost there motors using that tb. i prefer the professional products 65 & 68mm tb’s for both price and craftsmanship
damnit this pisses me off so bad, was it just a bad batch or can a machine shop do something to fix that problem and prevent it from happening? I just got this thing…
on a side note, if on my b17 i did a full tune up, got a
JG Header
ITR Intake Manifold
Performance Products 66mm Throttle Body
RSR Full Exhaust
no cat
ARC Super Induction box (I wanna move the battery, my buddy said i could get it to work)
ITR Cams
Cam Gears
CTR N1 Crank Pulley
Oversized .5mm Valves
Buddy Club Springs and Retainers
Buddy Club Head Gasket
Possibly bigger injectors and walbro fuel pump
And had it tuned with crome would I be able to hit around 180 WHP?
Also if it matters, i’ve yanked the power steering and a/c And will be getting rid of the ABS (gotta be something of weight reduction, i dont think enough to matter though)
My goal is to hit a mid 14 and then high 13 with nitrous on top of all that possibly. Possible?
[QUOTE=sinisterfuzzy;1889170]damnit this pisses me off so bad, was it just a bad batch or can a machine shop do something to fix that problem and prevent it from happening? I just got this thing…
on a side note, if on my b17 i did a full tune up, got a
JG Header
ITR Intake Manifold
Performance Products 66mm Throttle Body
RSR Full Exhaust
no cat
ARC Super Induction box (I wanna move the battery, my buddy said i could get it to work)
ITR Cams
Cam Gears
CTR N1 Crank Pulley
Oversized .5mm Valves
Buddy Club Springs and Retainers
Buddy Club Head Gasket
Possibly bigger injectors and walbro fuel pump
And had it tuned with crome would I be able to hit around 180 WHP?
Also if it matters, i’ve yanked the power steering and a/c And will be getting rid of the ABS (gotta be something of weight reduction, i dont think enough to matter though)
My goal is to hit a mid 14 and then high 13 with nitrous on top of all that possibly. Possible?[/QUOTE]
in the last month or so i’ve done a bit of cam and im testing on my lsv. contrary to popular belief, the 2nd gen b16 im will produce power much faster than itr style ims (especially on the smaller 16’s &17’s) and stay within 2-3whp at peak. the p30 will make more power down low and have a broader powerband from 2-8k. so, i think the p30 with portmatched runners will be superior. and if anybody says i’m wrong, please bring ur own personal experience to the table…not just internet jargon. i’m not found of n1 pulleys, but, that just my personal preference. PP only make 65 & 68mm tb’s. do not use a bigger valve, stay oem non r spec valves. i would sell the arc and coup some paper. from there either use an aem cai (hybrid) or an sri w/stack and filter. if ur suing itr cams, just use itr valvetrain. which jg header? the sms copy or jg/edelbrock? run 295 obd2 bb6 injectors, make sure to get the clips with it. an oem vtec pump is fine or just run a 190. as for hitting 180whp, crome won’t determine that…all of the other factors will dictate how well things work out. humidity, happy/sad dyno, quality of the tune/tuner etc. its much easier to hit a peak number than it is to build a fast car. which car is faster one that make 180whp@9k or 170whp@7500rpm? its simple math. street cars/road racers need responsiveness & wtq. drag racer just need late peak power and extended, engine punishing, bearing wearing rev-limiters
maybe use some loctite. but, i just wouldn’t use it
ok, so lets just say happy dyno, humidity is generally pretty low, and i’m having it tuned by someone who know’s his shit. Basically are those parts combined with a good tune capable of 180whp? Also, I will be taking your advise on everything you said, I have an AEM short ram right now i’ll prolly just keep. But just go with prolly supertech valvetrain (can be obtained for very good price) and ITR cams, but i will most likely be taking your advise on the b16 Intake mani port matched.
this is a simple b17 set up. its an std chart, so i’d say it makes about 165-170whp, real world. which is not bad at all for as simple as it is. for ur set up, i would not use the over-sized valves, n1 pulley or itr im. but thats just me. u have to be very careful when selecting parts. and the last thing u want to do is sacrfice wtq for a few hp’s at peak. i would be more concerned with the wtq numbers, not whp.
is the ctr n1 pulley really gunna throw me off that much? i thought it would just be beneficial as i dont have power steering and and am taking the air conditioning out too. i’m picking up a b16 intake manifold today, i’m hopefully going to be getting it port matched and extrude honed. and then after looking at that build, i’m just gunna go with those buddy club cams/cam gears, supertech valvetrain (oe spec) and a .5mm buddy club headgasket.