unofficial B18B Swap Guide - finally!

ASSISTANCE Hybrids & Advanced Aftermarket Engine Performance
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[SIZE=“4”]B18B Swap Guide[/SIZE]
Since there seems to be a lot of interest in this topic, and little in the G2IC swap guide, I am making my own. I am always open to suggestions and additions, I will also post a few pictures in the future.

Objective: To explain in the simplest terms what is needed to be done

Common questions:

Which mounts do I use? Use Mounts for your specific car. 94-01 mounts will not work. I highly recommend Polyurethane.

Which Transmission can I use? Anything you want. Many models can work but the mounts can and will differ between transmissions. In my swap I retained the stock 5 speed so that is what I will be covering. One could do a transmission swap at the same time as the engine, try searching the forums.

Which drive shafts and half shaft do I need? I re used the original ones. If you swap the transmission then you may need to change these.

Which Clutch do I use? The clutch is dependent on the transmission, not the engine. I used a clutch for a 1990 model since thats the transmission I have.

Which ECU and Harness do I use? For simplicity I reused all the stock 90 electronics. Yes you can upgrade to OBD1, try searching the forms for that.

Which Header can I use? You can re-use the stock exhaust manifold but please don’t, it sucks. A header is a good upgrade to consider. Most B series headers will fit the engine, but the cross member may need modification or replaced. Remember this, the header bolts in 100% identically on the B18A and B18B, so when shopping for a header take into account that you have a 2nd gen Integra for clearance purposes. If you already have the exhaust upgraded then ignore all this and re-use your stuff.

What about A/C and power steering? I’d call you a wimp but whatever. Re use everything from your original car down to the mounting brackets, bolts and belts. It will work fine.


Parts List.

Clean 90 LS Hatchback with a 5 speed gearbox
1999 B18B
Thermostat housing and coolant fan switch from the 99 B18B

Bits to re-use from the 1990 Car
Valve Cover, Air Intake, Intake manifold, throttle body, iacv valve, purge valve, IAT sensor, map sensor, oil pressure sensor, oil temp sensor, fuel rail, injectors, injector resistor box, emissions system, distributor, spark plug wires, exhaust system, entire cooling system minus the thermostat cover, O2 sensor, water pipe – its below the intake on rear of block, drive shafts and half shaft, Wiring harness, ECU, alternator, starter. On the drivers side the engine mount bolts into a block that bolts into the engine. This block must be from your car. The newer style will not work. The rear engine mount has a bracket that you need to re-use as well.

This is the part that may get confusing.
There are 3 sensors on the back of the block of the B18A. Oil Temp, Oil Pressure and a coolant fan sensor.
The B18B has one oil sensor installed, the other oil sensor is plugged off with a 32 mm plug, and no coolant fan switch. You need to remove the plug. Where the plug is on the B18A there is an oil sensor with a threaded adapter, you need to re-use that adapter so the sensor can fit. Ok so the 2 oil sensors are hooked up then you can deal with the coolant fan switch. This is where you need the thermostat cover from the B18B, it is identical except for the fact that there is a threaded bung with a radiator fan switch installed. You need to cut your original harness and extend the wire about 8 inches to reach. The coolant sensors are not similar and the original connector will not fit. I wired in the connector from the B18B harness to give it a clean look.

Not including paying a mechanic (I had minimal help, I did 95% of the labor myself) I spent about three thousand dollars on this swap. I upgraded to after market goodies here and there and I also did not take into account all of the maintenance items that should be addressed such as belts, water pump, tensioner, gaskets, seals, all new sensors, filters, fluids, hoses, bushings, wires, cap & rotor, plugs, pcv valve, brakes, axles, etcetera etcetera etcetera.

In summation re-use EVERYTHING that bolts onto the block & head. Then deal with the 3 sensors on the block and call it a day.:read:

*PS. The B20B and B20Z are nearly identical to swap as mentioned above. There is an issue with the fuel running lean, but that can be addressed. Try searching this forum for specifics on it.

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[QUOTE=therealkroysc;1909965][SIZE=“4”]B18B Swap Guide[/SIZE]

Witch Transmission can I use? Anything you want. Many models can work but the mounts can and will differ between transmissions. In my swap I retained the stock 5 speed so that is what I will be covering. One could do a transmission swap at the same time as the engine, try searching the forums.
[/QUOTE]

Any Bseries trans will mount up. For Hydro trans you need a cable to hydro conversion mount and a cable to hydro coversion kit

Witch drive shafts and half shaft do I need? I re used the original ones. If you swap the transmission then you may need to change these.

Passenger side drive shaft will work on either hydro or cable trans (same exact thing) Drivers side is a little different. It all depends on the intermediate shaft that you use. If you use a hydro intermediate shaft. Use a hydro trans seal that goes into the trans. Also you will need a hydro drive shaft. If you use a cable intermediate shaft. You will need a cable seal and a cable drive shaft.


Witch Clutch do I use? The clutch is dependent on the transmission, not the engine. I used a clutch for a 1990 model since thats the transmission I have.

90-91 trans will require the 90-91 clutch. 92-01 trans will require 92-01 clutch. Doesn’t matter what block you use.

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sorry. But this is weak.

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ok, do something better. Do you have anything constructive to add or are you just a hater?

Polska, I appreciate your input but I was not trying to cover transmission swaps. Not all B series transmissions will work. Check out the B series in third generation Accords or Preludes.

5

[B]I’m converting to OBD1. So much easier than this.

All you have to do is
1.) Remove OBD0 Injector clips, Splice on the obd1 injector clips ($5 for clips at Junkyard)
2.) Remove OBD0 Distributor clips, splice on the OBD1 Distributor clips ($5 for clips at Junkyard - Simply match the wire colors)
3.) Extend the cooling fan switch sensor wires
4.) Remove resistor box and splice the 4 red and one yellow wires together
5.) Cut off the one wire 02 sensor wire and tape it off
6.) Get a Boomslang/Rywire OBD1 Jumper harness ($110), use the subharness (Included) that comes with it to plug in your 4 wire 02 (Should come with motor)
7.) Plug in the new ecu. (P75/P74 - $50)

OBD0 FTMFL[/B]

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[QUOTE=therealkroysc;1910249]ok, do something better. Do you have anything constructive to add or are you just a hater?

Polska, I appreciate your input but I was not trying to cover transmission swaps. Not all B series transmissions will work. Check out the B series in third generation Accords or Preludes.[/QUOTE]

It should be common sense than an accord/prelude B series transmission won’t work with an Integra motor.
If someone can’t come to that conclusion on their own, they probably should’nt be doing a swap.

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helpful to some.

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32mm is too small for that plug, its 34 but no parts store can seem to even order one

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has this post been too dead for me 2 replly?
i have some questions about a b18b swap in a 1993 teg.

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wylee. check the teg tips.

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:rockon:thanks man

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This is the part that may get confusing.
There are 3 sensors on the back of the block of the B18A. Oil Temp, Oil Pressure and a coolant fan sensor.
The B18B has one oil sensor installed, the other oil sensor is plugged off with a 32 mm plug, and no coolant fan switch. You need to remove the plug. Where the plug is on the B18A there is an oil sensor with a threaded adapter, you need to re-use that adapter so the sensor can fit. Ok so the 2 oil sensors are hooked up then you can deal with the coolant fan switch. This is where you need the thermostat cover from the B18B, it is identical except for the fact that there is a threaded bung with a radiator fan switch installed. You need to cut your original harness and extend the wire about 8 inches to reach. The coolant sensors are not similar and the original connector will not fit. I wired in the connector from the B18B harness to give it a clean look.

have pictures of this?

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[QUOTE=Dean;1912288][B]I’m converting to OBD1. So much easier than this.

All you have to do is
1.) Remove OBD0 Injector clips, Splice on the obd1 injector clips ($5 for clips at Junkyard)
2.) Remove OBD0 Distributor clips, splice on the OBD1 Distributor clips ($5 for clips at Junkyard - Simply match the wire colors)
3.) Extend the cooling fan switch sensor wires
4.) Remove resistor box and splice the 4 red and one yellow wires together
5.) Cut off the one wire 02 sensor wire and tape it off
6.) Get a Boomslang/Rywire OBD1 Jumper harness ($110), use the subharness (Included) that comes with it to plug in your 4 wire 02 (Should come with motor)
7.) Plug in the new ecu. (P75/P74 - $50)

OBD0 FTMFL[/B][/QUOTE]

I am doing the above, my resistor box has 4 white (w 4 diff color stripes) and one solid color wire on the firewall side , do I splice those to straight to the injector wires (the 4 red/blk and 4 misc other colors?)

The cooling fan switch is the 2 female connectors, they need extending to the thermo housing right?

Thanks!

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Thanks for the info I have been trying to find a swap guide for the B18B for awhile. I know that the GSR engine is basically the same but everyone has different info reguarding the swap.