Tryed searching, no luck. I needed to know if a velocity stack w/filter will fit on a SRI. With factory sized battery. Thanks guys
most useless mod… PERIOD
think about it though… how much bigger is the “velocity stack” thing than a normal air filter. it should fit. worst case, it will be a tight fit. just so long as you use a sri for a da then you should be fine. youll be even better if you just use a normal filter
I currently have 2.25 aem cai installed on my b18cr looking up upgrade 3" sri with or without velocity stack
DA All Day have any facts to back up that statement?
BPI have dynos to prove its beneficial stock or highly modified.
Kind of curious what you’ve been seeing.
For a dd car, what use is something like this? Lets start there…
other than the large amount of unfiltered air you are sucking into your engine for 1000s and 1000s of miles, what does a street car get from this?
You’re mistaken about what he’s talking about. He’s asking about using a velocity stack WITH a filter. Like this Blox piece. I have one on my car. It’s been a long time since I’ve looked at dyno graphs but iirc there is a benefit to this setup vs a filter only - albeit minor.
How does it fit with the stock battery and location? I believe that’s his bigger concern.
I’d assume it gives the same type of gain when comparing stock vs SRI… Or SRI vs CAI… Minor differences that your “butt dyno” says are great. But in reality, likely a 3whp gain throughout the band.
I was hoping someone would chime in with fitment, but apparently not. I have this setup in my car, but I don’t have the stock battery. For reference if you want to compare to other pictures of cars with the stock battery.
drool
Oh… excuse me then. Ive never seen that before. Interesting
Colin- did you paint the housings on your one pieces? They look a bit darker than mine and way, way cleaner. Your bay is so clean! It’s motivational!
:-*
Thanks Mike! No, I did not paint the housings, I’m not a fan of the blacked out look. I think what you’re seeing is just a combination of the angle and the fact that there’s vignetting in the photo so the corners are darker than the center. That pic is a 3 1/2 yrs old, I refinished the lights this past year and they look much much better now. It was a bit of an ordeal and overall it wasn’t cheap but with the quality of used lights out there I think it’s worth it to spend $50-100 refinishing a good old set rather than picking up a slightly better set which is just going to deteriorate. I learned a lot while refinishing, so if you ever tackle the job don’t hesitate to hit me up.
And hopefully soon I’ll have a completely new bay - should be a pretty big change from that photo. Hopefully things go smoothly, I’m still a little apprehensive about all the “tucking” I’m doing and a little worried it’ll be too much (by my standards, not what you’d normally judge a “shaved & tucked” bay by). Only time will tell.
I meant the outside of the housings but now that I look at the pic again the inside does look blacked out slightly. Haha.
I may take you up on that offer. I’ve always been intimidated by wetsanding a set of jdm lenses. That’s a ways down on my to do list though. I really need to get my bay finished up so it can be sprayed in February-March.
I definitely look forward to the new and improved engine bay! I love the tucked look. As long as It’s clean and functional its hard to go wrong!
Oh, I see what you mean. Yeah, the housing (exterior) is definitely not painted, it just looks dark because of the vignetting. I hate it when people paint the exterior housing, looks super cheap to me. As for refinishing… the exterior is cake, I’ve sanded and polished a handful of times. It’s easy and there’s nothing to worry about, you pretty much can’t fuck it up as long as you’re not a moron. I was talking about a full restoration, I completely disassembled the lights, cleaned them inside and out, fixed the damaged inner “chrome” reflectors as best I could, sealed them with new butyl headlight sealant, and of course refinished the outside. For the outside this time I didn’t polish them because I’ve had bad results with that before, it just never stays nice and always yellows again. So this time I used an automotive clear after sanding. Overall it all worked out well, not perfect but it was my first time doing a full restoration like that. If I were to do it again it’d be even better.
I could have sworn the outsides were painted… Well when the time comes I’ll shoot you an email for a detailed procedure.
I’m curious though, how did you go about repairing the damaged chrome on the reflectors?
Refinishing them is super easy.
Though I didn’t have to re-chrome anything. I know theyake a “chrome” or reflective aerosol… I just don’t know how well it works.
As far as taking them apart, re-assembling and the wet-sand/buff… That all is easy as can be, just time consuming.
I used a metallic foil with adhesive backing. Paint is an option but silver/chrome paint isn’t really reflective so I don’t think it’d work well.
Good thinking on the foil… makes me wonder if that aluminum heat-tape would work. That stuff is quite reflective and, well, heat resistant.
On a completely off-topic note… Is that a polished Neuspeed FSB? I may have to steal that idea… my black OG finish looks like ca-ca.
Are you talking about metal tape? I dont know how reflective that stuff is either. Unfortunately Stanley didn’t put much effort into making the lights last. The best option of course would be to have the reflectors sent out for a new coat of metal deposition but that’s pricey. I wish I hadn’t tossed my other set of reflectors out when I moved. The reflectors were in bad shape but they would have been good candidates for testing.
Yes, metal/foil tape… I have two different rolls at the shop and one is quite a bit more reflective than the other. I’d feel more confident in that having better results than the aerosol I mentioned earlier.
Replicating the OEM coating is very hard and as you said, pricey. The quote we got to re-chrome a Honda emblem was insane.