CF hoods weigh easily half of what an OEM hood weighs.
Not all of them…
The VIS and Seibon’s are still heavy compared to the FiberImages one. It was also thicker and weaker too.
the JDM bumber supports really got my attention. !!! i bought a used carbon fiber hood, but could only tell a little difference in acceleration. the guy said the hood wasnt Gade A carbon fiber but that it was a lot lighter than the siebon he had bought!! Hey whats the weight difference in changing from steelies to aluminum rims like Rota???
[QUOTE=Integra GS;2231340]Not all of them…
The VIS and Seibon’s are still heavy compared to the FiberImages one. It was also thicker and weaker too.[/QUOTE]
Well, being that this is a ‘weight saving techniques’ thread, a CF hood still applies… this isnt the ‘What CF hood weighs the least and which weighs near OEM-weight’ thread.
lol if weight is an issue buy something lighter or more powerful or maybe both?
[QUOTE=Integra GS;2231340]Not all of them…
The VIS and Seibon’s are still heavy compared to the FiberImages one. It was also thicker and weaker too.[/QUOTE]
You know what’s even lighter??? No hood!!
jdm speed holes… in my old integra i cut the spare tire well out and had a custom aluminum floor put in.
on my teg i removed all powersteering and a/c then i removed my backseats and trunk, sound deadening, oddessy battery, bride seat, enkei rpf1’s 9.9 pounds per rim.
Marc ((DB2-R81) probably has the best example, but here’s mine: removed sound deadening and all extra metal brackets/etc, headliner, wiper assemblies (f/r), heater core, power steering, removed all extra ducting inside the dash, glove box, carbon hood (Gemini, carbon skeleton), carbon mirrors, Odyssey PC680 battery.
Beautiful teg^
Thanks! Still a work in progress, like most of us lol.
free bump, post up some your gutted da i am working on mine pic soon, also full race front traction bar and help save some weight and add handling:)
The Full Race traction bar is about the same, likely slightly heavier, than the stock crossmember. I wish I would have weighed mine when I had both off of the car. Also, the general consensus among the track rats is that this style of “traction bar” doesn’t do much for road racing. Helpful for drag, yes, but not so much for road racing. I only got one because I got a good deal from a friend and needed it so my header would clear. In an ideal world I would modify the stock piece.
i ccould not beleive how much the rear spoiler weighed. i took it off the other day to see what it would look liike and the gas struts actually held the boot hatch up in place, im going to make sure this gets taken off in the future to save further bruising to the back of mine and the mrs head when getting the shopping out haha.
Weight reduction
How much does the whole a/c and p/s weigh together?
I removed the spare tire, the complete a/c, the p/s (ef rack witch is lighter than the da rack) jdm headlights, and no back seats.
LOL at people thinking your going to “feel” a difference by removing 30lbs of shit. A general rule is that for about every 100lbs of shit you can remove, you would only gain about 1/10th of a second on a 1/4 mile time. If you think your going to “feel” that, just go stand in traffic.
So let’s get real with this. Unless its a strictly dedicated track car. Weight reduction is pointless.
Considering every Honda owner strips their shit in order to be “fast”, I take pride in knowing everything is complete and working in my car and it’s still pretty quick, but that’s just me. I think people respect that more that a gutted out shit box.
I agree with replacing things like bumper supports, hoods, and trunks to save some weight on street cars, but cutting out and removing braces and stuff, I just don’t get it.
This was my old drag DA when I was in the process of removing everything behind the dash…heater core, ducts, etc. Then removed the tar with dry ice. All that was left was my dash and a driver seat.
I wouldn’t recommend complete removal of the bumper supports. In the event that you get in a low speed accident the damage done will be considerably more without the beams. Anyway, I’m in the slow process of building an SCCA ITA / NASA Honda Challege track car out of my 92 DB2. Accumulating the go fast parts is the slow part but I’ve been pulling things out here and there that the rules allow. So far I’ve deleted/removed:
- ABS system (wheel sensors, wiring, abs controller & dust shields). Rules mandate that ABS be disabled so I just deleted it altogether.
- A/C system minus the EVAP core (rules wont allow removal)
- Radio antenna and wiring
- rear wiper, bracket, wiring
- rear seats, seat belts
- Relocated battery to the rear
7.Spare & Jack - Cruise control
- Stupid intake bracket
I’ve got a spare set of doors that I’ve gutted minus the door bars and mirrors. What are you AutoX/track guys doing about the auto seat belts and window net mounts? I’m still driving this thing pretty regularly so I’m waiting on removing PS, sunroof, radio etc… but those seat belts suck and I need a better setup and don’t want to put harnesses in it before the cage is built.
We removed the stock belts altogether, and our window net mounts were welded to the cage iirc. My personal car, which is basically just a track car at this point, has 5pt harnesses for the track and a manual seat belt conversion for when I’m driving to/from the track. Although it can be less than ideal from a safety standpoint to use OEM belts plus racing seats.
Unless you feel like sourcing and installing some manual belts I’d suggest you just deal w/ the auto belts until it’s time to install the harnesses. Plus, it sounds like you’re getting pretty close to the point where it won’t really be street legal (or comfortable) anyway.