I have Axxis Ultimates (front) and AEM (rear) on Brembo blanks with Goodridge lines. A huge improvement over stock. Much more braking torque and no fade. A bit more noise, but not enough to bother me. The difference between dusting in each pad is very apparent, though. My front wheels are much darker than my rears. I wish the brake dust was permanent, because I really like the color.
:horny:
Yeah, Albany SUCKS…WAY too much brake dust and can’t stop for $hit.
I have AEM’s for all four wheels, but I haven’t put them on yet. I am waiting for my cadmium plated Brembo crossdrilled+slotted rotors. Then I will break in the front rotors with the Albany pads. Then I will put on the AEM/Nissin’s. Can’t wait!!
why would you break in rotors with albany pads?
Well unfortunately the Albany pads are already on there. And reading the Velocity magazine (bi-monthly mag for honda/acura club members) there was an article a few months back that Oscar Jackson (Jackson Racing/Superchargers, etc.) wrote about proper brake break-in. I believe the article stated to break in new rotors with old pads and new pads with old rotors. I’m sure you don’t HAVE to do it this way, but since it came from him, I’ll give it a whirl.
I am waiting for my cadmium plated Brembo crossdrilled+slotted rotors
the cadmium plating is just that, plating. once you brake a few times the plating will come off and your rotors will rust again.
about breaking in the pads. it’s best if you put new pad with new rotors. that way the new pad will seat itself.
Originally posted by integguy91
[B]
the cadmium plating is just that, plating. once you brake a few times the plating will come off and your rotors will rust again.
about breaking in the pads. it’s best if you put new pad with new rotors. that way the new pad will seat itself. [/B]
Yes I realize that about the plating, BUT the key to that is that it WILL prevent rusting the outer edges of the rotor. Rust is definitely a problem in WI. The rest of the rotor does not rust because of the friction from the pad.
And prior to reading the article by Oscar Jackson, that was the way I always knew to do it. But the way he said it makes sense, so that’s the way I’ll do it.
Besides, how does a pad seat itself properly on a rotor that isn’t even broken in yet? If the rotor is worn in, then it will wear the pad into the proper seating. That’s kinda the way he explained it. Who knows, maybe I’m wrong, it made sense to me when I read it.
i went ahead and got the aem’s for the front and like them very much for my first time getting pads. i resurfaced the rotors but i think theyre still some welts on em and will replace them with brembo blanks. probably get aem’s for the rear as well. i’d go cheap on the rears but id rather pay more for the cream dust.
perhaps next time if im ballsy enough or start to track ill step up to hp+.
I’ve had AEM front and back for about 9 months now. Mine dust gray, not creamy at all. They are made by Nissin.
I’ve matched them with Brembo slotted/dimpled at all four corners. Installed Goodridge SS lines too. I’m pleased overall with the stopping power.
Some slight fade noticed only when I was doing successive hard stops 40 mph to 20 mph when I was bedding them in. One of the hats has some small cracks around the screw holes that hold rotor to hub. I think I torqued the wheels to tightly.
Occasionally I get a very slight vibration in the steering wheel at the initial bite. I think I may have a little play between the caliper and pad. Originally had the front rotors on the wrong side. Correcting that reduced the vibration but didn’t completely stop. Perhaps I should shim the pads.
Verdict: If I could eliminate the vibration I’d give it a thumbs up. However, I don’t know what is causing this. Pad, rotor, caliper, hub, ball joint, bushings, MC(new), brake fluid(fresh), lines(bled twice after line install) or combination? :bang:
definitely recheck your balljoints and bushings. my upper left control arm balljoint leaked completely and i get a crippling vibration
I’m running Albany pads in the back. They dust a lot, but who really cares. The do not stop as well as my HAWK HP+ pads, but for me, that’s a good thing.
Where can I get some OEM pads for a good price???
oem’s are 45/pair, or 38 with your g2 club discount. aem’s are only a buck more at 46, so why not.
which pads dont dust as much as the oem ones in yalls opinion
Originally posted by XDEep
oem’s are 45/pair, or 38 with your g2 club discount. aem’s are only a buck more at 46, so why not.
OK I’ll go for some AEMs. Where is the best place to get them from???
AbtivanConcepts (http://www.abtivan.com/concepts/brakes/aem/aembrakepads.html):
Front: 26-125 = $37.77
Rear: 26-200 = $33.99
Ground Shipping = $10
Total = $81.76
I’ve been looking for a couple weeks and that is the best that I’ve found thus far. I am about to order some for the front.
Hope that helps.
-Dustin
OK, I’ll order some for the front. I don’t need any for the back right now. Is this a trusted source to order from? Thanks!
afaik aem’s dust the least with their ‘cream’ color. my rims still get dirty after 2 days, but im sure its due more to the actual dirt than the brake dust.
the 46$ ones are at www.inlinefour.com
i didnt really bother searching extensively since they were local to me, but most seemed to be in the same range. you can also try www.groupbuycenter.com
Thanks, I just ordered from inlinefour.com. $60 with shipping. Not too bad I guess, they are afterall good pads from what I hear.
is that with tax? 14bucks to ship a tiny box… i woulda figured 8 at most.
Haha, I know that shipping price is quite steep. There was no tax, and I chose UPS Ground (the cheapest). Oh well, I’ve seen worse.